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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had a super runner steering kit installed on my 1990 Bronco, it does have a 6” lift and 35x12.50 mud terrains. It drives terrible after install, the tires scrub and the camber looks way off to me. Les Schwab which is a highly respected tire shop in the PNW did the alignment. They say it is set and that the kit isn’t for on road use? I don’t necessarily believe them. The Bronco has new steering box, shocks, bushings, etc. Rag joint is in good shape. Any ideas? Does anyone have experience with this kit? The bronco actually drove pretty darn good before.


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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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did you get the print out after it was aligned?? need to see what the camber and caster look like.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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The camber/caster has absolutely nothing to do with what kind of steering setup you have. The only thing related to the steering linkage that can cause camber issues (positive or negative) is the toe setting. If the toe is “out” the springs will compress and cause negative camber when you roll forward, opposite for backing up.....and vice versa for toe “in.”

Sounds like that guy either doesn’t know Broncos and TTB suspension or he didn’t want to get into the camber bushings on the upper ball joint, which is where these adjustments are made anyway. If your bushings are maxed out for camber due to a lift, you need adjustable bushings installed and get a proper alignment at a 4WD shop. ($$$)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The camber/caster has absolutely nothing to do with what kind of steering setup you have. The only thing related to the steering linkage that can cause camber issues (positive or negative) is the toe setting. If the toe is “out” the springs will compress and cause negative camber when you roll forward, opposite for backing up.....and vice versa for toe “in.”

Sounds like that guy either doesn’t know Broncos and TTB suspension or he didn’t want to get into the camber bushings on the upper ball joint, which is where these adjustments are made anyway. If your bushings are maxed out for camber due to a lift, you need adjustable bushings installed and get a proper alignment at a 4WD shop. ($$$)
He said he set the toe “neutral” but usually -2 degrees in for drive ability. It is lifted 6” maybe the bushings are maxed out. I will try to go look, but I’m very inexperienced with suspension.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Not sure if this helps. I don’t know how you tell if they a maxed out


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That camber looks screwed up.
Which Les Schwab was this?
Klamath Falls, I had the local 4wd shop install the kit. They have been in business for 20 years here, figured they knew what they were doing.


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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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So those upper BJ sleevs look to be maxed, however that means can likely get it set right.
On these truck you gotta pull it forward to align it, never back it into a bay (not that you did this) Make sure you are not looking at the camber after backing up and making decisions.
Something looks off on the super runner steering to me, at ride height the drag links should be in parallel with the the ttb arms, otherwise you will get bump steer. From what I see its like the pass side is mounted to low, or you need a drop pitman arm with more of a drop.
As mentioned above the caster camber and toe are really not set with the same parts on these trucks. You should be able to set the toe yourself in the driveway with a tape measure and get it to go down the road fairly well. My 92 is set in this manner.

Also that steering stabilizer does not look like it can function correctly with the way its mounted, who ever did that really has no idea how a TTB front end works. Its mounted to the opposite arm and the link, the ttb arm moves in an arc, likely also moving the steering with it. If going to mount like this it needs to be mounted to the link that moves with the same side arm. IE from near the knuckly up to the short drag link. Or ideally from frame to the top bar which the drag links for each wheel attach, the one connected to the pitman arm.
I would remove the stabilizer and take it for a drive and see how it acts, while it does look to have some neg. camber, I bet it will drive down the road ok-ish still, just wear tires fast. I think issue you are having are mostly in how the steering setup is setup right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So those upper BJ sleevs look to be maxed, however that means can likely get it set right.
On these truck you gotta pull it forward to align it, never back it into a bay (not that you did this) Make sure you are not looking at the camber after backing up and making decisions.
Something looks off on the super runner steering to me, at ride height the drag links should be in parallel with the the ttb arms, otherwise you will get bump steer. From what I see its like the pass side is mounted to low, or you need a drop pitman arm with more of a drop.
As mentioned above the caster camber and toe are really not set with the same parts on these trucks. You should be able to set the toe yourself in the driveway with a tape measure and get it to go down the road fairly well. My 92 is set in this manner.

Also that steering stabilizer does not look like it can function correctly with the way its mounted, who ever did that really has no idea how a TTB front end works. Its mounted to the opposite arm and the link, the ttb arm moves in an arc, likely also moving the steering with it. If going to mount like this it needs to be mounted to the link that moves with the same side arm. IE from near the knuckly up to the short drag link. Or ideally from frame to the top bar which the drag links for each wheel attach, the one connected to the pitman arm.
I would remove the stabilizer and take it for a drive and see how it acts, while it does look to have some neg. camber, I bet it will drive down the road ok-ish still, just wear tires fast. I think issue you are having are mostly in how the steering setup is setup right now.
Awesome, thanks for this advice. I went through the instructions for installing the steering kit and a drop pitman arm is required per the instructions. It doesn’t come with the kit so I’m sure they didn’t install one. I ordered the drop arm today, it doesn’t say how much drop it is buts it’s from superlift. I measured my current arm and it drop 4”. I’m also going to remove the steering stabilizer and see joe it drives. Also I think I’ll order caster bushings with 2.75 degree adjustments and then get it realigned once everything is installed. I know they pulled it forward to align it for sure.


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aka: kemicalburns
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I hate les schwab, i dont feel they do competent work anymore. since your in Kfalls you might check out Point S. or ask the 4wd shop that did the lift install who they recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can you get a better picture of that Pitman arm? It almost looks like you have a drop arm on there? It’s hard to tell from that one picture.

I measured it a 4” drop, not sure what the superlift drop is they don’t say on the website. I figure worst case I’ll send it back.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I hate les schwab, i dont feel they do competent work anymore. since your in Kfalls you might check out Point S. or ask the 4wd shop that did the lift install who they recommend.
I haven’t been to Les Schwabs in years but it was the only place I could get in. I agree the service and experience has went way down since the old man passed away.


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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Judging by that first front-on pic, the pitman arm side of the drag link is an inch or so higher than the idler arm on the pass side (not parallels to the sway bar). With that setup, I don’t see how you are going to get the tie rods parallel to the axles without a tie rod flip, an I don’t know if you can do that with that kit. It looks like it could interfere with the sway bar near the end links.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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You might need to try and dig up an old school alignment shop. personally i would go back to Les Schwabs and speak to a manager and explain you are unhappy and this needs to be corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You might need to try and dig up an old school alignment shop. personally i would go back to Les Schwabs and speak to a manager and explain you are unhappy and this needs to be corrected.
I am getting new wheels and tires next week and I found a guy here locally that has been doing alignments for 40 years that is going to take a look at it. He should be able to help me.


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Judging by that first front-on pic, the pitman arm side of the drag link is an inch or so higher than the idler arm on the pass side (not parallels to the sway bar). With that setup, I don’t see how you are going to get the tie rods parallel to the axles without a tie rod flip, an I don’t know if you can do that with that kit. It looks like it could interfere with the sway bar near the end links.
I agree but honestly I have very little experience with suspension components. I have spoke with Superlift and sent them pictures to verify it’s installed correctly but they haven’t gotten back to me. I went through the instructions and it’s seems right. I really don’t like the way the steering stabilizer is mounted though.


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