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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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242 Posts
33"s fit with no lift, I have a total of 6" of lift (4" pro comp and 2" body which needs to go) and could easily clear 37"s, even at full tuck my tires never go near the fenders, although thats partially due to the 2" body lift. For what it's worth, I was planning on running 35"s on an uncut stock height 85, and didn't forsee any issues, the 33"s were very well clear when stock.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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300 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Reviving this for an honest question......

According to what I’ve seen, my lift that was on this when I bought it has a mix of procomp and other parts along with ridiculously stiff springs. Here is my question.

I bought the super flex springs from JBG which I haven’t put on yet. I’m hoping to get overall a better ride quality, because as of now, it’s about to throw my kids out of the back when I hit railroad tracks or speed bumps lol. Should I install the springs and test that out of just wait a month or two and buy the entire super flex kit from JBG that comes with deaver leaf packs and all?? Will just softer front springs help?? Will that kit help? Will better shocks help?? I know I’m not going to get the ride my 2015 platinum F-150 has or anything but something that doesn’t throw you out of your seat. I mean if I took this off road it would kill me lol. Thanks in advance!


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If it was me I would just but the whole kit from the beginning. But I like the super flex springs on my 78-79 . I do not have them on my 86 which is stock and i will never lift it . Because I like having a stock one . But my 91 has a Rancho or Skywalker long arm kit . If I was to change it I would go with the super flex kit . Only because I would want all the flex I can get when I need it .
So sorry no real help . Lol
 

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1986 Ford Bronco, 351w with edelbrock aluminum top end and holly 600.
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2,208 Posts
@mattmann

It is likely that all new springs and shocks will help. The Deavers in the super flex kit are likely going to make you very happy from what I’ve heard. 6” was a little too tall for me or I would have gone that route. My understanding is this are the flexiest springs out there.

My guess is your rear spring bushings are probably toast as well and freshening those up will help as well so you better plan on a new set of shackles out back because you will never get the old bushings out.

Are you installing this yourself? You better plan on 3 or 4 days of work.

You need to remove the factory riveted radius arm brackets and drill and mount new ones.

This lift install is a significant project.

You’ll also need extended brake lines.

You’ll need a full front end alignment when your done and finding a shop that knows how to actually do it can be a challenge and it will likely run you a few hundred bucks.

You should really consider removing the rear leaf perches and welding in new ones at the correct angle vs big degree shims.

You should also put in new bushings in the TTB while it’s all apart.


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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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300 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
@mattmann

It is likely that all new springs and shocks will help. The Deavers in the super flex kit are likely going to make you very happy from what I’ve heard. 6” was a little too tall for me or I would have gone that route. My understanding is this are the flexiest springs out there.

My guess is your rear spring bushings are probably toast as well and freshening those up will help as well so you better plan on a new set of shackles out back because you will never get the old bushings out.

Are you installing this yourself? You better plan on 3 or 4 days of work.

You need to remove the factory riveted radius arm brackets and drill and mount new ones.

This lift install is a significant project.

You’ll also need extended brake lines.

You’ll need a full front end alignment when your done and finding a shop that knows how to actually do it can be a challenge and it will likely run you a few hundred bucks.

You should really consider removing the rear leaf perches and welding in new ones at the correct angle vs big degree shims.

You should also put in new bushings in the TTB while it’s all apart.


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Thanks for all the help man. I currently have a 6” lift installed so I think most of the difficult stuff may already be done. Should be just swapping it out. Being that this is not my every day truck, I’ll be fine with it being out of commission for as long as it takes. I don’t know what you mean by the rear shackle stuff because I’m not too familiar with lift kits but I’m fingers crossed it’s easy enough lol.


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I had a nice long discussion with Carl at Solo Motorsports. We got to talking about rear springs and they only run the Deavers. He was telling me about ordering them as a -2 or -4 to keep the stock ride height depending on lad and have a softer ride than the stock springs. Now I know that you are wanting +6 to start and haven't ridden in a stock Bronco to compare it with, but I thought it was interesting that they were running the Deavers to get a better ride than stock. Mine are stock and it rides very nice! Not 'truck' like.
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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758 Posts
So, the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front axles on the 1980 -1996 work/ride very well for normal driving. When lifted, all kinds of bad things can happen. What? Big tires, drop pitman arms, steering box, alignment,, bushings,mediocre shocks, stiff springs. Longer radius arms (Rancho was the best but discontinued, Pro Comp, next best) stuff mixed and matched, who knows.A 4 inch lift works best on these trucks. There's a lot going on with the TTB and with the newest ones 24 years old most shops/sales guys don't know how to advise fixes... feel free to PM me for my .02 worth.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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242 Posts
Thanks for all the help man. I currently have a 6” lift installed so I think most of the difficult stuff may already be done. Should be just swapping it out. Being that this is not my every day truck, I’ll be fine with it being out of commission for as long as it takes. I don’t know what you mean by the rear shackle stuff because I’m not too familiar with lift kits but I’m fingers crossed it’s easy enough lol.


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I've read you mentioning a lack of rebound dampening before... Start with shocks, then replace the springs after. I've had cars with suspension so stiff it fatigued and cracked the chassis, however I never got tossed out of my seat, even when catching air at high speeds. Why? Because I had enough dampening to keep the springs in check. Contrary to popular misinformation, off the shelf "stiff" shocks will not make a vehicle ride stiff or poorly in any way, they just control the rebound better. On the flipside, "soft" shocks often provide an awful ride that will toss you out of your seat, and float down the highway like a jellyfish.

My F350 has tired adjustable ranchos on it, at full soft it would catch air regularly and throw me off the seat due to a complete lack of rebound dampening. At full stiff but tired, its functional... I've been driving it for 15 years, when the shocks were new and dialed up fully stiff it rode much better and was a lot more controllable.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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300 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Installed the drivers side spring tonight and it was rough. Between using a spring compressor and fighting the 1-1/8” spring retainer nut......
After setting the truck down, it appears to make the drivers side about 1/2” higher than the passenger side. Hopefully I can replace the other side and it will settle a little over time. It’s dangerously close to the front shock but so was the existing 6” lift spring that was on there. I’m hoping they make a difference in ride quality and will update later on but at this point I own them lol. I also really hope it settles down and doesn’t sit nose high because I hate that look. Any concern with it sitting that close to the front shock?? Any experience from those that have ran these? Do they settle over time a little??
How it is now:



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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #50
How it was before:

(Pic looks reversed)


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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #51
Here is a close up. Looks like they are touching in the other pic but they aren’t! Maybe 1/8” only though



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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #52
Quick question.......
I got up this morning and lifted the truck and pulled the passenger side tire off. I placed a jack stand under the drivers side axle beam and under the frame rail (close to under passenger seat) and when I lowered it slow, I noticed a lot of creaking and popping. I feel like this is normal for any vehicle that’s going through this. HOWEVER I notice my paint chipping away a tad by the roof gutter and a crack in the “caulk or sealant” by the front windshield on the a-pillar!!?? Is this normal for flexing and what not?? It didn’t happen on the drivers side. Only this one. Any advice!??



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I own a bunch of Broncos 10 or so . Lol
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Quick question.......
I got up this morning and lifted the truck and pulled the passenger side tire off. I placed a jack stand under the drivers side axle beam and under the frame rail (close to under passenger seat) and when I lowered it slow, I noticed a lot of creaking and popping. I feel like this is normal for any vehicle that’s going through this. HOWEVER I notice my paint chipping away a tad by the roof gutter and a crack in the “caulk or sealant” by the front windshield on the a-pillar!!?? Is this normal for flexing and what not?? It didn’t happen on the drivers side. Only this one. Any advice!??



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Ya because u had the top off . Its only going to get worse.
I had to lift mine with a hi lift Jack today to get the front shocks on .
And I'm having trouble getting the hood to latch right now .
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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300 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Ya because u had the top off . Its only going to get worse.
I had to lift mine with a hi lift Jack today to get the front shocks on .
And I'm having trouble getting the hood to latch right now .
Oh great!! So if I put the top back on will it prevent it from getting worse?? I’m not down with all of that!


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Oh great!! So if I put the top back on will it prevent it from getting worse?? I’m not down with all of that!


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It will help yes u shouldnt have a problem now except when your really flexing off road . And I think your more street wheeling though.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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300 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
It will help yes u shouldnt have a problem now except when your really flexing off road . And I think your more street wheeling though.
That’s honestly all I plan on doing. May take her off road here and there for deer camp. That’s all though!


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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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242 Posts
The C pillar issue is normal I guess. Mine are cracked too.
 
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