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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Can I get away with this? I just wast to put on the new yoke and torque it down with no new crush washer and preload stuff....
I cam across this statement on another forum......

"You don't really HAVE to reset preload when swapping the yoke. Its always nice to check it. Just install the new yoke and torque to specs on the low end. You should be fine."

What you think?....
 

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1979 Bronco, 460 Police Interceptor 550HP, C6 Rock Crusher, Custom Ford 9", 1 Ton driveshafts!
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So, I have done this, before, and therefore, I really hate the crush washer, and prefer to have the rear end setup with shims instead.

DO NOT torque the nut back on, it needs to be tightened to exactly the same place it is now.

WHY? I torqued the nut just a quarter turn past the original crush washer setting, and that was enough to destroy the bearings that were replaced 1 year prior. It did take several thousand miles before it died.

This lesson only cost me another $1500!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK 79Bronco.... Thanks for your honest first hand experience. I didn't know torquing is such a exact science when it comes to the rear end....
 

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1979 Bronco, 460 Police Interceptor 550HP, C6 Rock Crusher, Custom Ford 9", 1 Ton driveshafts!
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Yes, the crush washer "crushes" easily. I have a brand new factory yoke for the Ford 9", when I converted to a 1 ton drive shaft!
 

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OK 79Bronco.... Thanks for your honest first hand experience. I didn't know torquing is such a exact science when it comes to the rear end....
The torque is not really what you want (exactly), but a specific torque gets you a compressed spacer (crush washer) that is the exact thickness you
need, so pinion bearinf preload's are not too loose or tight.

Most (including me) recommend using a crush washer eliminator kit, that you end up determining which set of shims
to use. Then if you ever have to remove yoke again, you do not need to do the "torque" thing like you would with a new crush washer.
I'm not a big fan of trying to get torque exactly the same, with a used crush washer, but I guess it works sometimes.
 

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Theoretically if you were to mark the yoke nut to the housing with a sharpie then carefully removed the yoke nut counting the exact number of turns and put it back on in the same spot it would work
I heard of people doing this with success but I do not suggest it

I agree with OX. Do it the right way and have no worries
 

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Count the exposed threads before you take the nut off then tighten down til the same amount of threads is exposed. Not by the book way of doing it but it works
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry put this in the NP205 post.....

This morning I got the pinion cartridge removed from the rear end. It came out pretty easy. I used a small thin screwdriver to slowly get it separated and it popped out. I did scratch up the pinion depth shim in one spot so I'll need to replace it. I did measure the shim thickness and got an average which is .0100 to .0105. Got a couple of questions for re-assembly.....

Since the pinion cartridge came out in one unit with the oil seal still in place, I will take a rotational torque measurement to see what it is ( will be interesting what it reads ). When I put on a new seal and shim is it ok to torque back to this original measurement? or should I just follow the used bearing spec of 8-15 inch pounds?

Regarding replacing the pinion depth shim, Is there much of a difference between these two measurements .0100 and .0105. or how critical is this?

View attachment 207220 View attachment 207221 View attachment 207222
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey since I'm doing all this, should I go ahead and pull the third member and replace the gasket which I think is suspect. Is it just a matter of removing the bolts and pulling it out to replace the gasket and put the 3rd member back in? Can I Fudge this up? I know it might be a little heavy for me....
 

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You have to pull the axle shafts out too. Not saying not to, but I'd consider new wheel/axle bearings and seals at that point too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did replace them about ten years ago. Added only 2000 miles since then. So all I have to do is pop out the axles a bit and pull the 3rd member. I comes out in one complete unit….right?


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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yes. One complete unit
Ok, It will be nice to clean it up since I'm there....Is there anything I should watch out for while pulling it out and putting it back?

One More thing....I just noticed that there are 28 splines on the pinion but my Differential tag indicates 31 splines. I guess this is referring to the axle splines?... but why wouldn't the pinion have 31? Don't get it....
 

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Axles are 31 spline pinion 28. Might seem odd but that’s right
Sometimes the axle seals leak after everything gets assembled. Being that pressed bearings need to be replaced inorder to change the seal I suggest just a bit of sealer on the seal and then keep an eye on the backing plates for oil for 100 miles
Unless of course it needs bearings. in that case it’s perfect time to change them.

You might consider a drain plug installation for gear oil changes if the housing does not have one already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I removed the pinion retainer seal and chipped up the inner metal part which is raised higher than the outside metal but not in contact with the bearing...Is this a race and is it removable? See pic. I guess I should replace the bearings too?
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not sure what I'm doing wrong If I am?. I was putting the pinion together with a new seal and yoke nut. The bearings were in good shape so I'm reusing them. When I put the pinion support on it spun freely, but when I put the yoke on I felt considerable more resistance. So I tightened up the yoke nut a bit and did a rotational torque measurement. It read 19 inch lbs.
Can this be right? My first time doing this and not sure if I should continue or Stop!
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