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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Bronco Brethren!

So Im swapping running gear on my 88 XLT from a 89 XLT
old: 3:55 open diff.
new: 4.09 factory limited slip.
So the problem that I have is that the axle yoke is different on my 88 compared to the 89, so I swapped yokes.
My question is do I need to torque them down to a certain spec or do a pre load? or can I just swap them and be good?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Yes, the preload has to be set correctly. No, it's too late to shortcut it - you have to measure it BEFORE loosening the pinion nut. Now you have to either 1) guess blindly & just wait for it to go bad, or 2) get a new crush sleeve & do it right (or pay someone to do it for you).
Great, I've already removed both yokes. I didn't think they would come right off, the last time I tried to remove a yoke was off of my 70 Duster and it took an act of god and two hail marys to just get the nut off much less the yoke so I was surprised they just came off.

I guess I better look for a new crush sleeve.... and figure out how that go's down. thanks for the help!
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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I would do a crush sleeve eliminator kit instead of a new crush sleeve, easier to work with especially is you end up taking the yoke off again or what not
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I went down to the auto parts store and purchased a new crush sleeve and oil seal.
came home,
removed seal,
removed bearing and washer,
removed old crush sleeve,
and then found these..... what the hell is this?
[/IMG]
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,091 Posts
The square piece looks like its an ear from a t-lock clutch disc
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I pulled the cover and the tabs on the clutch disk are gone. I couldnt figure out how the pieces got into the front then I found the hole in the housing.

Looks im going to attempt a rebuild today
 

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I learned the hard way about the pinion nut. I took my wifes durango to the mechanic to get the pinion seal changed because it was leaking. I watched them replace it. They zipped it off with the air impact and zipped it back on the same way. I didnt think anything of it till about a year later when I was reading up on changing the pinion that I saw that the preload had to be measured and re-installed correctly. About 3 months after that, the pinion let go and I had to get a whole new rear axle from the junk yard. It was actually cheaper to replace the whole axle than fixing the problem. lesson learned.
 

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I agree with those who say get a junkyard replacement or, if financially able, take it to a shop that specializes in differentials.
This is not a matter of just replacing parts, everything has to be precisely set and adjusted using specialized tools and a ton of experience.
Then, it takes hundreds of pounds of torque to get the crush sleeve to crush, you don't get it right the first time then you are starting over. If you don't get everything to exacting tolerances you get the "grenade" effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I got new clutch disks from the Rear End Shop in Riverbank, Ca. today and replaced them today. I guess we'll see if it burns up in the next couple hundred miles.. thanks for all the advise everyone!

 
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