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Call Me Ace
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1,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
would it be a whole lot of work for nothing to try and switch out the push button tranfer case to a manual?

can you still do some damage with just a push button and manual locking hubs? i plan on converting to manuals here in the next couple weeks- but i just went mudding with a buddy who has manual locking hubs and man. t-case... it seemed to go smoother than what ive seen with push-button.

but for all the money- if i can just put in the manual hubs and still be able to tear through stuff... im content...
ace
 

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you better off getting a man. t-case and swapping them out.
 

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Call Me Ace
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Discussion Starter #3
anybody know about the cost for all of the linkage and any different mounting. im gonna try and raid the junkyard to find one.
is it a really hard thing to do? i just figured you'd switch out the mounting brackets and the t-case, cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, and pop in the driveshafts...
probably not that easy... it never is...
ace
 

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WheelinElvis said:
anybody know about the cost for all of the linkage and any different mounting. im gonna try and raid the junkyard to find one.
is it a really hard thing to do? i just figured you'd switch out the mounting brackets and the t-case, cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, and pop in the driveshafts...
probably not that easy... it never is...
ace
yea its thats easy.
 

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WheelinElvis said:
anybody know about the cost for all of the linkage and any different mounting. im gonna try and raid the junkyard to find one.
is it a really hard thing to do? i just figured you'd switch out the mounting brackets and the t-case, cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, and pop in the driveshafts...
probably not that easy... it never is...
ace

you shouldn't even have to cut the hole. my floor has the hole stamped into the metal and an access plate screwed over it
 

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Referring back to your first post......it looked like you were asking if any damage would be done to your drive-line if you continued to use the electronic transfer-case shift motor after switching from auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs.

If that was your question, then the answer is.....no. This is exactly how I have been using mine for quite some time now.
 

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Streetgang said:
Referring back to your first post......it looked like you were asking if any damage would be done to your drive-line if you continued to use the electronic transfer-case shift motor after switching from auto locking hubs to manual locking hubs.

If that was your question, then the answer is.....no. This is exactly how I have been using mine for quite some time now.
I think he's asking if it will shred any better or worse with a manual transfer case, like mud hardcore..?
 

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RIP Spring Creek Off Road
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6,012 Posts
.... i run an auto t case (bw1356) with manual hubs out at spring creek with no problem.... unless your is fried i would leave it be... i know more people with problems getting their manual in and out of 4hi/4low(not just fords... other makes too) than people with the push button

as far as locking up and being able to wheel.. once it's engaged you will not find a diference in the wheeling capabilities of a manul shift vs pushbutton shift....4hi is 4hi... and 4low is 4low
 

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then manual case is favored(i guess) because of its durability over the electric motor. I have the manual and a friend of mine has the electric, and they are the same, save for the electric motor failing on my buddies truck( 92 f-150, 175k miles). i think thats the only advantage, the durability of linkage vs. an electric motor.
 

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I have an 87 XLT w/manual 4x4 everything and the 94 XLT w/automatic 4x4 everything...

If the transfer case motor blows on the 94, isn't it just easily replaced exactly like one would replace a power window motor? I mean, the xfer case pwr unit unit looks physically similar to a power window motor for the doors or tailgate...

I can't see it being such a HUGE problem to replace a pwr xfer case motor if it dies.... I can see it as being an inconvenience more than it being a "major" issue to replace it. Plus, once one does replace the pwr xfer case motor, everything will work as "new" or as it did prior to the motor dying, right??

?????

elaborate more if possible...
 

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Call Me Ace
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1,953 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i was thinking about all of the electric stuff that goes into the push button. because, as it sits now, when i push the button... thats all that happens. no sound in the dash, no noise from the case. i havnt had time to really look at it, but if its not really hard (or expensive)- i could just switch to manual and save a couple steps when troubleshooting. i find it easier to check mechanical stuff than all the wires and motors and crap.

ace
 

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I thought you were posting about converting a elec. shift t-case to a manual shift t-case...sorry

FWIW, my broncos stock case was a 1356 with a bad motor. The motors are NOT cheap. They cost like 400$+ or something and there are several diff. model numbers. The plug is the tell tale sign if you dont have a readable part number or they dont know at the dealership...since its been a preaty long time since they have gotten many of them in on a reg. basis to work on.

I did the swap to a np208 for like 350$ or so and that is also fig. in the cost to get my rear drive shaft double cardian end swapped to the correct style.

Every man. t-case is a bit touchy in 4 low I think thats due to no syncro setup for 4 low
 

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Call Me Ace
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Discussion Starter #13
i think im gonna switch to the man. t-case. ill try and find one in the junkyard- does anyone have one lying around that i could buy and get shipped?
ace
 

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Call Me Ace
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Discussion Starter #14
i just found one- will an 85 bw 1345 t-case from an f-250 work on an 89fsb?
i dont know if he has brackets yet- but i could probably find some- or have them fabbed.
ace
 

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For those needing new transfer case motors for the automatic 4x4 xfer cases, shop around for the power transfer case motors - they are on eBay for CHEAP...

Here is one for $88.00 NEW:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Pickup-Bronco-Transfer-Case-Motor-91-97_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQitemZ7977411193QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Here's another for $149 NEW:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-96-Ford-Bronco-Full-Size-Transfer-Case-Motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33728QQitemZ8024723742QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

:beer
 

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RIP Spring Creek Off Road
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WheelinElvis said:
i think im gonna switch to the man. t-case. ill try and find one in the junkyard- does anyone have one lying around that i could buy and get shipped?
ace
if you get one i'd just keep it in the garage incase your electric ever craps out... i wouldn't bother takig out an electric that works fine for a manual
 

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Call Me Ace
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Discussion Starter #17
BUT mine doesnt work! why screw around with all the electrical crap if i can just put in the manual? i'd have to get my own brackets- but its only $35...$35 bucks! i think the switch to manual t-case would be smart.
ace
 

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RIP Spring Creek Off Road
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6,012 Posts
WheelinElvis said:
BUT mine doesnt work! why screw around with all the electrical crap if i can just put in the manual? i'd have to get my own brackets- but its only $35...$35 bucks! i think the switch to manual t-case would be smart.
ace
oh in that case go for it:thumbup
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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WheelinElvis said:
BUT mine doesnt work! why screw around with all the electrical crap if i can just put in the manual? i'd have to get my own brackets- but its only $35...$35 bucks! i think the switch to manual t-case would be smart.
ace
My electric finally started giving me various problems (none of which were related to the actual shift motor, as it now sits in another FSBer's rig with no problems). My last incident that sent me over the top was being in 4 low, and going to disengage, and getting nothing...no clicky nothing. Like you I hate diagnosing electrics, especially this, since it is NOT a matter of just looking at the motor. Unfortunately the buttons are electrical switches, so they could be bad, the wiring anywhere could be bad, the computer in the kick panel for these electric t cases could have crapped out, and finally the motor at the tcase could have gone bad (but it didn't). Who knows.

I bought a used manual tcase with about 80k on it from a 1995 bronco locally for $175. I'll probably spend another $40 on basic go-through (the case is in half right now) to make sure all is well before swapping. finally (I hope) less than $100 for used linkage (the dealer wants far more).

You should search though wheelin elvis, this topic has been covered in several recent threads.
 

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Some assembly required!
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Before you install that manual t-case...

Before you install that BW1356 manual t-case there are a few things that deserve your attention. As some of you know last year on my way back from Superlift my t-case just lost it's high range all of a sudden. It just popped out of gear and wouldn't re-engage. This turned out to be the problem:




The oil pump siezed, which caused it to spin on the shaft and bent the anti-rotation bracket into one of the gears. I did end up driving it home by keeping my foot on the t-case lever to keep it engaged in hi-range, which probably caused the problem in the second pic, completely worn through shift fork and shift collar hub.

Fortunately these problems were very easy to fix. I bought a rebuild kit off of eBay for $100 which had the new oil pump , bracket, shift collar hub and fork plus some other odds & ends. Install is pretty simple, you'll need a two jaw puller for the speedo gear and a heavy set of snap ring pliars. Later I was told that it is actually pretty common for the oil pump to give issues in these cases on high mileage trucks and since the shift fork & hub were replaced it shifts like it was new again. If I were going to install a used t-case I would definitely reccomend replacing these items first, I'm sure it will save you some time and trouble in the future. Any of you guys having shifting problems with the manual case should probably consider doing this too.

Oh, and by the way, other than the crap in there caused by the ground up bracket everything else in the t-case still looked pristine after 160,000. I thought that was very impressive and a testament to a well designed piece of equipment.
 
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