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Discussion Starter #1
I've been thinking of making some shackles for awhile now that would swivel but not unload like a revolver shackle. I was thinking of using a BF Nut and a bolt to match that would be the swivel. My thoughts are with the amount of compression I get out of my leafs I might be able to alleviate some stress by having a pivot point on the shackle. I saw a pic of this done once in a wheeling mag. Can anybody think of a good reason not to attempt this? Anyone think it's a good idea?
 

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There has been a ton of talk about this on other sites. The final conclusion always seems to be that there's no advantage to allowing the shackle to swivel. It seems there's more benefit to just using rubber bushings than going through all the work to develop a swivel mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It doesn't help aleviate any stress?
 

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The pictures I've seen of leaf suspensions all bound up generally show very little twist on the compressed side, and significant twist on the droop side. Freeing up the shackle will allow more droop, but doesn't seem to affect compression at all. It becomes more of a ramp champ thing rather than an effective trail performance mod. This plays into why Revolvers don't work as advertised.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How much compression is too much for the leafs we're using? I'm hearing doom and gloom about snapping a main leaf by all the compression I'm forcing it into. Yet I know I've been flexing the rears like this for years. What gives? Did you end up using some bump stops? Nothing binds on mine so I haven't done it yet. I've always heard the more flex the better. :shrug
 

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I know not a BB but the dynamics would be the same. I had thought bout doing something like this but using a drop shackle for the pivot and a means of locking it down for street. I think some sort of panhard/watts link should be used as well as a torque arm. I decided to use a front suspension at the rear so I could later bag it.

 

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BigNorm said:
How much compression is too much for the leafs we're using? I'm hearing doom and gloom about snapping a main leaf by all the compression I'm forcing it into. Yet I know I've been flexing the rears like this for years. What gives? Did you end up using some bump stops? Nothing binds on mine so I haven't done it yet. I've always heard the more flex the better. :shrug
I am bending my Superlift 6" springs until they're inverted and have been for years now. I know they won't take it forever, and bumpstops can make them last a lot longer.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
davids78bronco said:
Norm, have you given any thought to doing something like what Kamster has done? - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53662 :shrug
It's an interesting idea but I respect the comments made by the guys on there so I don't think I'll be going that route.

Hss. I'm going to stay away from revolver style shackles. I do some steep stuff and off camber stuff sometimes and I feel I tempt fate enough without adding those to the mix. I don't want to end up on my lid if I can help it.


Larston. I've been torquing my rear leafs like this for years. I don't see the difference in doing it in the front as well. But you've all got me scared so I plan on putting in some bumpstops. I've got some good ones I pulled on of my trips to the bone yard.
 

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I had considered that setup for a while as a more controlable and cheaper revolver shackle but had decided not to do it. in addition to the shackle you would need a panhard bar, torque arm and a means to load the side that had dropped. The last could be accomplished with a Z bar. Anyone familiar with old VWs would be familiar with them. What I had figured was using a bar with removeable ends and set it up as a sway bar for street then remove one end and turn it around creating a Z bar. I decided this was too much work and a better setup would be to replicate the from setup on to the rear. This could then be bagged to provide a variable lift, I don't like driving a lifted vehicle on the street and have no tire clearance issues. What I will do, prolly, is to take two front frame clips place them back to back and connect with 3x6 tubing, I need to box frame because of front and rear M12000s. Wear/breakable parts are stock so there are a lot of spares out there.



http://www.supermotors.org/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=3869&s=15883#content
 
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