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Discussion Starter #1
well when i first got it, it had 6 inch superlift ttb with no alignment cams and no extended radius arms and block lift in the back on 31's and white wagon wheels, lets just say this thing looked goofy, but, it ran great once you got it started and was only 600 bucks. so i got some power king premium traction tires that measured about 35" tall and since some fool had switched to 16" rims when they installed the waggies the power kings fit perfect.











then i started realizing the limitations of the ttb and the aod started spittin on me so i decided time for an sas. at first i was just gonna find a dana 44 to put under the front, well along came some axles out of a 99 super duty, hp dana 50, and sterling 10.5, disc brakes already, 3.73 gears, massive axles and axle tubes, paid 900 for both. decided to use the stock upper coil buckets and shock mounts, also was able to unbolt the lower coil mounts and reuse them on the mounts i made for the new axle, used 1.75 OD .375 wall dom tube for the 3 link and trac bar, used half inch plate to make all link mounts and spring perches and grade 8 3/4"bolts all around

rear end sat lower than the front with the superlift kit now with the rear axle in and shackle flip its a bit taller










forgot to mention that i put the 4 speed in when we were doing the axles, its a t-18 that i got from the junkyard, bolted straight in all i had to do was drill three holes in the firewall for the clutch cylinder, got everything i needed to do the conversion plus the steering column out of the donor truck for 275.

then i decided it i was time to armor up, i bought a tube bender from affordable bender, a tube notcher from harbor freight, had almost all the other tools necessary.

and some fender trimming

i could fit 44's if i had bump stops on the rear but im probably gonna end up running 42's, the 38's are on it now but they are kinda old, right now it was enough room on the rear if i keep running 40's or smaller i could do rear steer but thats not high on my priority list, but it is on the list














for now the bronco is on the back burner, the transmission went out on the old ladies car and it takes priority so as soon as i can get the bronk back in the garage i will finish rear quarter panel protection tying into the rear bumper and the front passenger area cage and some trussing here, gusseting there and it will be pretty stout. hoping to do a wishbone style link system in the back with high clearance lower links and superflex joints to get rid of the axle wrap in the rear

 

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that dana 50 will not like 42's or 44's very long
 

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How do you hold that front axle in place. Didn't see a trac bar. Is there one??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i dont plan on adding bigger tires till i first add..... 35 spline outers and warn hubs (free spin hub conversion maybe), new axles, high steer with hydraulic assist, and some lower gears obviously, i've romped on it pretty hard so far and it holds up nicely, havent even broken the shitty stock hubs.
there's the trac bar, built out of the same components as the 3 link
 

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Oop I see it. Good job. I know you know more than me but I learned the hard way that the trac bar should be parallel to the axle on each end.
 

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i've also heard that if it runs the same angle as the drag link that that is ideal for minimizing bump steer must be true because mine is parallel and no bump steer or death wobble
That's true but the more parallel the drag link, tie rod and trac bar are to the axle the less chance of binding and excessive wear there is. That's why most high lift vehicles have high steering adapters. Just makes sense to have good geometry in the steering.:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
mostly my budget and parts availability, and im not saying what i've created is better than the long travel ttb kits available, so to start, the axles were at my buddies shop two blocks away from my house $900, i paid 200 bucks for the 38x13x16's, bought the link material and heims from a local 4x4 shop 7 7/8" chromoly heims, 20' 1.75 OD .375 wall dom around 450 i think, i made all the link mounts out of half inch plate at school on cnc machine, paid like 270 somethin for the cragar soft 8's brand new, built the entire thing myself which also saved alot, dont get me wrong i already want to build a long travel ttb to haul ass in
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's true but the more parallel the drag link, tie rod and trac bar are to the axle the less chance of binding and excessive wear there is. That's why most high lift vehicles have high steering adapters. Just makes sense to have good geometry in the steering.:thumbup
cant argue with that, there's a guy on pirate 4x4 who makes high steer arms and machines the outers for high steer, pretty good design too only like 450 for the machine work and new arms
 

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Awesome, I am a fan of the chop what ever is in the way function over form any day I like your work:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thanks guys, i never thought that this thing would be at the point that it is but so far im really happy with how it performs, i like keeping it as close to full bodied as i can, although once i four link the rear and get a fuel cell im gonna chop the rear fenders and re-skin them like this

 
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