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Discussion Starter #1
Took me about an hour and a half to swap my freshly rebuilt manual-shift bw1356 in place of the worn out push button one. Go to hook the linkage up and you would swear I have the wrong linkage (I don't). The only way it wants to go toghether is with the transfercase in 2HI and the shifter in 4LO. I've spent the last two hours trying every combination of assembly steps I can think of to get this stupid linkage toghether the right way; what in the world am I doing wrong?



What I Know



early model bw1356 with the "square shift shaft"

Using the 92-96 style shift linkage (on my 93)

Shifter detent plate is stamped "E4OD" (what I have)

Connecting rod is also for "E4OD"

The arm on the shift shaft (at transfercase) is removable on the earlly models, with the shifter in the 4lo position, the rear grommet goes directly onto the shift shaft without the arm at the t-case even on there. It's as though the connecting rod is about 2.5 inches too long or something.
 

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Screw the Jeep Thing
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There are several different rods depending on what the Tranny is. I think like 4 different lengths.
Sounds like yours is way too short.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If anything, it's too long. I have the E4OD transmission and the shifter detent plate and connecting rod are both for the E4OD (stamped right in them). The rooster comb in the t-case is keyed to only allow the shift shaft to go in one way and the case shifts through all modes properly, so I know it's not internal. I was thinking that the little arm at the case might be too different since it's from an early case and i'm using late-model linkage, but it can't be that different.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,507 Posts
There are several rods and there are also a couple of different detent plates/brackets. You may have one from a pickup.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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also make sure its in the orientation on the t-case in the above picture, on the np208 i know you can flip it and it will mess with the lever, so i don't know if all bw are like shadofax's with the welded/pressed fit lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats the detent plate and rod that I have (P/N's match). My arm at the case is the older style with the square shift shaft and the retaining nut. My arm has a very light bend to it and has a non-tapered cylinder where the grommet pops on. The rod (f2tz-7b051-e) pops onto the arm without too much effort and I don't think the slight bend in the arm is enough to effect anything. I can remove the arm entirely from the shift shaft at the case, and with the shifter in 4lo the rear grommet on the rod goes right onto the shift shaft at the case.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,507 Posts
Some pictures might help. what year vehicle did your 13-56 come out of?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Figured it out

It's an 87 (E7) bw1356 (not 1345, I know the difference). The actuator arm on mine isn't at 12' oclock when in 2wd; more like 10. I mocked up the connecting arm to see if shortening it would do the job but it won't. I'm gonna have to modif or build from scratch a new actuator arm that fits the square shift shaft on my case.:banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shadofax,

How does the arm on those late model cases attatch to the shift shaft? Is there any way to remove one of them without disassembling the case. Do they have the square "key" in them like the older ones (where they attatch to the shift shaft)?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Shadofax,

How does the arm on those late model cases attatch to the shift shaft? Is there any way to remove one of them without disassembling the case. Do they have the square "key" in them like the older ones (where they attatch to the shift shaft)?
more info. here:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/628/30964

there is an exploded diagram as one of the pics. item 57 is the shift shaft
 
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