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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where I can find the tailgate window switch? I have a lock barrel in the tailgate but behind is there is no switch, just some wires taped together. The electrical switch and the arm on the back of the lock barrel that hits the buttons are both missing.

Thanks!
 

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The arm isn't technically part of the switch assembly, but the switch is part of the wiring harness assembly. AFAIK, neither is offered separately anywhere. So your best bet is at the JYs of central OH. :thumbup

Before you go, follow the wiring under the truck just forward of the rear bumper beginning under the L taillight. There are 2 bundles; 1 for the taillight, and 1 for the t/g. They pass the rubber body mount on the frame and go inside the frame rail channel. If the truck has a hitch receiver and the factory filler between the bumper & t/g, it can be very difficult to see in there. But you need to know if the t/g harness has a large round 4-position connector right there (larger than the 4-position taillight harness connector), or if it's simply an extension of the frame harness.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/562547

If it's just an extension, you need the old-style t/g harness with an even-larger 3-blade connector behind the taillight.

If there's a frame connector, you can use the latest-style t/g harness (up to '96, of course) even if your truck ALSO has the 3-blade connector. The later harness deletes the connector(s) behind the taillight, so it's inherently more-reliable & preferable.

Whether the truck has it now or not, I recommend getting a t/g harness WITH rear defrost. They're easily identifiable by the grounding ring under a green 11mm bolt head behind the L taillight.

The arm that operates the switches is the same for all '78-96 Broncos.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/401385

I've heard a rumor (which I haven't yet personally confirmed) that the '78-79 lock cylinder is preferable because it (supposedly) uses a square-head key. So it could theoretically be cut to match the ignition key, eliminating the round-head key from trucks with square-head door lock cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The other thing I noticed is the profile of the key (when you look at the key end-on, as if your eye is the lock) is mirror image from the ignition key.

Many years ago the Bronco was broken into and the thieves punched both the front door locks. I bought replacement locks so now I have separate ignition and door keys. I'm headed up to the locksmith today with lock barrels in hand to have them all re-keyed to the ignition key so I only have to carry one key. BUT (and like, my mother in law, this is a BIG but) the tailgate key profile is a mirror image so the ignition key won't even go in the lock, never mind turn it.

The body of the tailgate lock barrel is slightly different from the door lock barrels so I don't think I can just buy and re-key a single door lock barrel. I'm hoping the locksmith and do something, but probably not.

In the meantime I need to start check out junkyards or plan to fabricate my own switch. I can duplicate the way the factory switch works. Just need to figure out how I'd mount it within the tailgate.
 

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I scored two tailgate window switches at the junkyards out here in L.A, so they are out there....I think I paid around 5 bucks for them. I bought two because I wasn't sure if they worked. Both were from late 80s broncos. Bring a pair of cutters to cut a large wire bundle with, and some pliers to pull the two retainer clips (keep them, you'll need them to hold the switch on) See steve's pics:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-2

I was pretty thrilled when I found them because I thought they were hard to come by. The PO cut my original one off in an effort to troubleshoot the window and left about 1/2" of wire to play with on the switch, so I just made sure to cut as far away from the new switches as possible so I could have as much wire to work with inside the small tailgate access area. Kind of a PITA to get in and splice it all together but definitely worth the hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The locksmith is rekeying my door locks to match the ignition but I'm out of luck with the mirror-image tailgate key. For now I'm having them just make me a kit to work the tailgate lock barrel.

I'm headed up to a local junkyard this coming friday to pick up a headlight and I'll check to see if they the tailgate wiring harnesses.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The PO cut my original one off in an effort to troubleshoot the window
Same here. Key did nothing so I looked inside the tailgate and found the wires to the switch cut off and electrical tape on them. :duh

If I can locate a switch then I can splice it back in easily.
 

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Don't know where you are, but I watch the Pick N Pull for Broncos. They haven't had one for months. If you check their site, be advised the ones listed as '97s are Expeditions. Dunno why.

Your truck was originally factory configured with the ignition separate and the doors, t/g separate. Sounds like you may have found older door locks when you swapped them (?)

I didn't see your post until a bit ago. Hopefully the locksmith can hook you up. If you have any problems, let me know, I'm out by the airport and have about 25 years experience in locksmithing. If I may ask, who's doing the work?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Don't know where you are, but I watch the Pick N Pull for Broncos. They haven't had one for months. If you check their site, be advised the ones listed as '97s are Expeditions. Dunno why.

Your truck was originally factory configured with the ignition separate and the doors, t/g separate. Sounds like you may have found older door locks when you swapped them (?)

I didn't see your post until a bit ago. Hopefully the locksmith can hook you up. If you have any problems, let me know, I'm out by the airport and have about 25 years experience in locksmithing. If I may ask, who's doing the work?


Golden Bear is matching the doors to the ignition. I'll check out the pick n pull. Thanks!
 

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Scruit, just reread my post and I forgot to mention...If you can't find a switch, let me know, I'll send you the extra one I have. The switches click and it is in good shape so I'm assuming it works. If you do paypal, it's yours for 10 bucks. 5 for shipping, 5 for the part. Hope I didn't come across as gloating that I found two...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Scruit, just reread my post and I forgot to mention...If you can't find a switch, let me know, I'll send you the extra one I have. The switches click and it is in good shape so I'm assuming it works. If you do paypal, it's yours for 10 bucks. 5 for shipping, 5 for the part. Hope I didn't come across as gloating that I found two...
You didn't come across as gloating, not at all. I definitely want the switch! I appreciate that! PM me your paypal email. Thank you! :beer

I got the door locks re-keyed to match my ignition key hoping to dispense with having separate door and ignition keys but instead I just wound up with separate tailgate and ignition keys. Well, that's better than having 3 keys, I guess. :rofl:
 

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The tailgate locks on the primary keyway (ignition) profile are out there, but they are harder to find and more costly. You'd probably be looking at $50 for the lock alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The tailgate locks on the primary keyway (ignition) profile are out there, but they are harder to find and more costly. You'd probably be looking at $50 for the lock alone.
It's something I can add to my nice-to-have list, but can make progress without it. I'll keep an eye out, thanks.
 
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