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Discussion Starter #21
So I looked at the sliders and they are not bolted in they looked to be pressed in. There is just nothing on the back. Any clue on how to get these out.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I prefer to grind the back surface and knock 'em out with a punch. You want to make sure you don't jack up the mounting hole for the aftermarket replacements.









 

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Discussion Starter #25
How do you tighten the sliders, from what I can tell they move when you tighten them. Also is there a way to do this without taking the whole regulator out.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "tighten the sliders". The rails the plastic slider squares I showed before slide around in... or, like... sliding rear side windows on the topper or... ??? The slider squares need to remain free to articulate but still be mounted solidly. The OEM slider square mounts are large rivet style... so there's not a whole lot to work with there. You can either brake 'em loose and go on about it or replace them. Maybe @sackman9975 will have a better idea what you're trying to accomplish.

Taking the regulator out is super easy. Barely an inconvenience. If you're replacing the plastic slider squares, I wouldn't even want to imagine trying to do it inside the gate and having it come out worth a damn. As I said before... you really want to maintain the integrity of the rivet holes so they can stay tight and in the proper position when you replace them with the aftermarkets.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have a drill press, would that make removing them while they are straight easier. And I’m asking how tight should I tighten the nut to where it won’t come lose but will move well. Should I tighten it then use loctite to keep it in place. Also do I have to take the motor off or can I keep it in. And do you know why when my window goes down it suddenly stops near the bottom like it hits something and you can hear it as well. Makes me have to reach in and pull the safety handle down. Sorry for the barrage of questions just been thinking of them while using the tailgate.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So I did it and it went smooth only took about an hour. But it did not fix the problem, same thing is happening where it’s slow towards the top and bottom and in the middle goes pretty fast. My theory is that the square is to tight in its sleeve so it won’t move. Or maybe the doorman motor is not strong enough.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Did you check the guide rail rubbers on each side? Did you get the plastic sliders to install to the scissor lift arms but spin freely? The square plastic sliders should spin freely when mounted on the scissor lift arms properly. The replacements have a lip on the mounting stud. If the hole isn't buggered, tightening them on shouldn't cause any restriction... but you should already know that if you replaced them. Did you clean up and lubricate the slide channels mounted on the bottom of the glass? Dorman motor should be fine... especially if center speed is good. The motor shouldn't be pushing through much more than the weight of the glass and minimal drag from the guide side rail rubbers. It sounds like it's being pinched in the guide when it gets to the top or bottom. There's a lot going on in there that all has to work smoothly together. It's not overly complicated but it does need attention. I can't look at it for you... so I can't give anything more than vague answers.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
When I check the guide rails do I just need to check if they are tight. And yes they spin very easily. The old ones didn’t even keep slinging when I did it. Lots of resistance. The slide channels are greased with lithium grease and I did a very thorough clean with a pick and brake cleaner.
162127
also could this gap cause a problem, I am not sure how to fix it as I moved the striker bolt as far back as I could. I am wondering if it is possibly getting caught on the seal on the cap.
 

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Yep... that's your issue. You'll need to re-adjust the strikers, possibly replace the striker bushings and get that gate closing properly before you'll ever get that window to raise up properly.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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New bushings, not the striker itself. If it's not closing flush, you're not done adjusting.

Do you have plastic bushings around the strikers? Does the tailgate close snugly or can you wiggle it around when closed? Bushings look very similar to the ones on the regular door latch strikers.
You can buy a bushing kit from Dorman. Even saw one at O'Really's the other day.

They look kinda like this...
 

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Here's how to align the tailgate (from the evil Steve83):
Bronco Tailgate Alignment
(I know you don't have a 4 door bronco, the alignment applies anyway.)
 
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Discussion Starter #36
So I looked and there aren’t bushings on the strikers, would that kit have the 2 correct bushings, also would those have the ones for the doors as well they look a little worn out. Also would this fix the alignment problem?
 

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It could fix the "alignment" issue... if it's not really an alignment issue. Meaning... the gate won't close tightly where it belongs because, without the plastic bushings the locking latch closes but can't lock on tightly. Probably will eliminate a lot of noise back there too from the metal to metal, loose and rattling about. My point being... since you've messed with it and we don't know to what extent, you may need to re-align it, after you get fresh bushings.

Yes, the kit comes with 4 bushings. 2 for each side of the tailgate and 1 for each door. They are sized differently but that will be pretty obvious when you get it. Replace the door ones too... because, why not? ;)

I'm not a fan of Amazon and you don't have the year of your Bronco listed in your profile, so we can reference it easily... but these should be what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
It could fix the "alignment" issue... if it's not really an alignment issue. Meaning... the gate won't close tightly where it belongs because, without the plastic bushings the locking latch closes but can't lock on tightly. Probably will eliminate a lot of noise back there too from the metal to metal, loose and rattling about. My point being... since you've messed with it and we don't know to what extent, you may need to re-align it, after you get fresh bushings.

Yes, the kit comes with 4 bushings. 2 for each side of the tailgate and 1 for each door. They are sized differently but that will be pretty obvious when you get it. Replace the door ones too... because, why not? ;)

I'm not a fan of Amazon and you don't have the year of your Bronco listed in your profile, so we can reference it easily... but these should be what you want.
Ok well they’ll be here tommorow and I’ll get those installed and move the striker around seeing if it will align with the body.
 

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If the oem location is fairly obvious, as it's worn into the paint and paint fade over years, putting it back where it originally was with the striker bushings in place would be my advice but I'm far from the sharpest knife in FSB's drawer.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
If the oem location is fairly obvious, as it's worn into the paint and paint fade over years, putting it back where it originally was with the striker bushings in place would be my advice but I'm far from the sharpest knife in FSB's drawer.
It’ll be easy because when I repainted it I painted over the strikers in the previous position so it is very obvious where they were.
 
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