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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! So my tailgate window won’t go down. I’m trying to figure out how I can do that so I can open the tailgate. The switch next to the steering wheel won’t work, and the switch behind the panel on the tailgate where the lock is doesn’t work either. Any idea how to get it down. Also there is this bar that was back there. Any idea what it’s for?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Give your tailgate a good shove to make sure it’s shut all the way. If it isn’t, it won’t let the window go down. That bar goes under the rear bench seat to help fold it forward.
See the thing is, I bought the truck from someone who also didn’t know why I wouldn’t go down. The door is shut all the way also.
 

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ok, first thing. that bar goes under the hood. it is for the jack.

on the tailgate, there is an access panel from inside. you need to remove that, then start testing the wires to the motor. easiest with two people, or bring the bronco's battery back there and cut the wires and apply power directly.

There is a safety switch inside the tailgate that if working and wired properly will only allow the window to roll down if tailgate is closed. If it is broken, or not adjusted right, or wires broken, then the tailgate will not roll down. start there.

I would, for now, bypass the switch with a jumper, and use that jumper spot to check for power to the motor. you'll have to find a spot on the return wire to check for ground. the power/ground switches depending on which direction you are moving the window.

if you have power and a good ground, then you have to replace the motor and/or regulator. for this it really helps to get the window about halfway down, so you would want to see if you can force it down, which is easiest if you can hold the down switch at the same time you try to force it down with your hands. don't break the window unless you like the sight of your own blood though.

there is also a safety bar inside the tailgate that will not let you drop the tailgate without the window all the way down, you'll have to take the panel off to bypass this as well. DO NOT open the tailgate without the window at least halfway down. That or you can take the top off and lower the tailgate with the window all the way up, you will need someone to brace the window and you lower it, and get a sawhorse or chair at the right height to hold the window once you lower it, it can break under it's own weight if fully extended.
 

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You guys are all wrong about the bar. That is the tailgate Torsion bar. It helps when lifting the tailgate. Mine rattled so bad I had to remove it. If it was for the jack, it would be broken in half with a slip joint.

Secondly, To get the window down, climb in your bronco, crawl to the back. Remove all the screws holding the rear panel on. Remove it. Look on the passenger side of the regulator and you will find the connector for the motor. Disconnect it. Get a spare car battery and bring it into the bronco. Get 2 short lengths of wire (3 to 4 feet) and strip both ends. Shove one end of each wire into the slots on the motor connector on the motor side of the plug. Then Hold one on the ground and touch the other to the battery positive. Check the direction the window is moving. If it wants to go up instead of down, reverse the wires from positive to negative, then touch them to the battery poles again and it will roll down. If that doesnt work, the motor is bad, and you will have to replace it.

Read thru all of the captions on the pictures in the following folder. This has everything you need to know about a tailgate in a bronco.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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You guys are all wrong about the bar. That is the tailgate Torsion bar. It helps when lifting the tailgate.
Are you sure about that? My tailgate torsion bar is thicker than that, and I have a torsion bar like this under the front of my rear bench at the hinge pins that helps it to tilt forward after unlatching the rear of the bench.
 

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After further review, I agree that it is in fact the rear seat torsion bar. Good call. They are similar, the rear seat bar has a z bend on one end and and the tailgate bar does not. I stand corrected.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
See the thing is, I bought the truck from someone who also didn’t know why I wouldn’t go down. The door is shut all the way also.
Will I just need a new window motor?
Does anything happen when you activate the switch? Any sounds?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nope nothing at all no noise comes from anywhere
 

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Yo Daniel,
You need to include your year, etc in your posts; see How To Create A Signature @ FAQ

Open access panel, Jumper that switch.

164692



tgmotorwiring.jpg | Hits: 20589 | Posted on: 12/4/08 | View Low-Res
Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. .

"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications."
By Steve
 

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Yo Daniel,
You need to include your year, etc in your posts; see How To Create A Signature @ FAQ
x2. The wiring is different according to the year.

The motor is the least common problem. Don't buy a motor until you determine the actual issue.

The safety switch is the most common problem. It affects all functions from all switches. You might try pushing the driver's side of the gate closed tighter near the latch while someone pushes the switch. But that varies by year, so we need to know what year you have.

The switches have 2 separate sources of power & different fuses/breakers to check. The dash switch needs the key on, while the gate switch is hot all the time.

More info & testing in post 3 of this thread:
 

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If you power the motor directly with a battery you will know right away if the motor is good or not. Then you can focus on the safety switch or wiring. I have mine all torn apart now doing the same thing. FIxing the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone for all the information! I basically tried everything, opened up the back panel, checked the motor, checked the wires, used a battery to see if the motor works which it does, check continuity of all wires and come to find out, the switch next to the steering wheel doesn’t work. I ended up jumpering the switch back to the switch and from there is where I found the problem. Just ordered a new switch. It should work when it arrives.
 
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