[Fireguy50]

I wrote this page a few weeks ago and recommed doing the upgrade: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7937
But there is no single place for tailgate wiring info on this site yet.

I decided to make my own wiring diagram, be back later

 

[Fireguy50]

Tailgate power window motor wiring

 

[Damager]

Thanks Ryan :thumbup

 

[Ironclad]

Just what the Dr. needed.......

Thanks Ryan!

 

[Fireguy50]

78-86 Bronco heated window wiring. (without under hood fuse box)

87-96 Bronco heated window wiring. (with under hood fuse box)

 

[Fireguy50]

Tailgate harness overview

 

[Fireguy50]

Tailgate harness detail

 

[94 XLT BRONCO]

Thanks Ryan, this is great info :thumbup I printed it out and stuck in my haynes manual for future reference.

 

[alboy79]

what years is that for? or do they all work similar? my rear window on my 79 dont go up, and i dont know a dang thing about the wiring of it all... so this would help.

 

[Fireguy50]

Same from 1980-1996, I can't find any 78-79 diagrams to conferm, but I'm pretty sure they are the same as well.

The defroster changed a little when the underhood fuse box was used in the 90's

 

[Fireguy50]

Ryan
Just FYI: I stole your diagrams and added them to this album.

You did What?






















Just kiding, I've copied lots of the pics off your site too

 

[JohnDeStef]

Thanks for the great writeup!

I searched for it because I'm trying to locate the defroster connection in my tailgate. I'm rewiring the mess leading to the tailgate, and all I have is 2 cut wires that lead to the defroster connection. They're wrapped in a cloth sleeve. I can't find where they connect to. :banghead

Thanks!

 

[JohnDeStef]

John
Ryan's photo shows an '80-?89 tailgate harness. Yours will have a different connector inside the L frame rail just forward of the rear bumper with the window & defrost wires in 1 connector. Inside the t/g, though, it'll be the same as older harnesses, but his photo doesn't show that end of the harness. It's just 2 flat terminals on a long harness take-out that reaches from one side of the glass to the other. They're the same size & type as the "Tailgate Latch Switch" terminals in his photo, but they're in separate connectors, instead of the double-connector shown for the switch.

I thought you'd be the guy to answer my question, thanks Steve! I do need to read your reply a few times to try and picture what you're describing.

Now that I've wound the window halfway down, I see the tabs for the defrostrer. One's 5 inches from the glass' driver's side, the other's 22 inches. It seems I'm missing a chunk of the wiring harness.

Got a spare you can sell???

Thanks again... back to the tailgate.

 

[El Kabong]

Just realized I ought to stop & say thanks. I found this diagram while searching the www for tailgate info, & also found FSB at the same time. Thanks for the info, my window has been happily working ever since :thumbup .

 

[turbobrickman]

Just realized I ought to stop & say thanks. I found this diagram while searching the www for tailgate info, & also found FSB at the same time. Thanks for the info, my window has been happily working ever since :thumbup .

Ya same here.

 

[alhefner]

Thanks for the great tailgate info!

I have been looking at a '90 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition at an auction where I work night security. Got the tailgate glass down then couldn't get it back up after opening and closing the tailgate! :cry

Thought I was doomed until I found this thread. Sure enough, connected motor straight to the battery and got the tailgate glass up!

Think I'll place a bid on that Bronco!

 

[j. r. Nice]

I thought this thread needed some tags so it comes up for newbies. Thought of more but it will only let me add 2.

 

[amtarsha]

I'm attempting to add a 3rd window switch to the bronco, inside the cargo area for when I sleep in the back of my rig. Basically I bought a (On)/Off/(On) 12V 20A switch. I ran 3 10ga wires through the cargo area into the taillight area.

Basically, here is my setup, sorry for the lame paint schematic action.

The problem is, when I use the new switch, the motor is SLOW, extremely slow. The window goes about a 1/4 of the way up then stops. I have tried just jumping the up wire to the power feed wire, and it's still slow, however the tailgate key still works great.

If it's not the switch, and not the wire size, I can only assume it's because of these stupid splice connectors:

Do you guys have any insight? Should I just cut each wire, wind them together, solder and heat shrink?

Any ideas why this could be happening aside from those splice joints being sub-par?

Thanks!
-Alex

 

[amtarsha]

Ah, thank you Steve, on further review that made perfect sense and I was able to modify the armatures on a DPDT (On)/Off/(On) switch to allow current flow through it so the dash switch would work, but then open the circuit from the dash switch while closing the circuit to the tailgate.

Does the stock dash switch have 6 pins on the back like a typical DPDT switch?

Thanks!
-Alex

 

[amtarsha]

I'm actually browsing your supermotors right now. Maybe I missed it, but it's not like supermotors has a search for images, so cut me a little slack, I'm trying. :whiteflag



EDIT: Found it, and to save anyone else the trouble that might come across this thread, below is a pic courtesy of Steve83's supermotors page.

The switch has 5 terminals.