[BoulderBronco]

Anyone know how do do this. I have seen Zachs Superford page but it does not get that detailed. I figured I could build this setup from scratch for around $100. The only thing I would really need that I know of is a couple hoses and the ram. BTW is there a special type of ram I need or will almost any hydraulic ram do? Thanks guys.

 

[axaviere]

i think you need 8" of stroke. do the mod on your pump too. you do have a saginaw pump dont you? i dont know what the shaft diameter should be.

 

[TTBlows]

Ax has a point, don't even consider this until you've got the Sag pump. As for everything else, I don't have a good answer. If I wanted this info I'd take a closer look at West Texas' Offroad ******* Ram (just to learn if nothing else), talk to Zach and search PBB.

I was getting ready to heavily research this last year, but the funds ended up going to a t-case rebuild and new rear d/s instead. Now I'm seriously re-considering if I need hydro assist at all.

 

[seboh]

I wouldn't consider running one on a D44... and I don't see ANY way of running it with TTB. So unless you have other ideas in mind....

 

[plug ugly]

my buddy bill is running the ******* kit on his sas 60 coiled front chevy with good results after a small learning curve. He is welded inthe front and is now considering staying that way (or detroit) reather than the arb, says the ram made all the difference.

 

[BoulderBronco]

I wouldn't consider running one on a D44... and I don't see ANY way of running it with TTB. So unless you have other ideas in mind....

I agree that on a TTB it's more difficult but it can be done. Besides I have the Superrunner Steering kit. That will make it easier. Just two brackets to make and weld on and I am good to go.

 

[BoulderBronco]

BTW Keith I have the sag pump and bracket sitting in my garage. I just need to have my pulley bored out and take the time to figure out how everything will fit. On top of the OBA kit I have just installed a hydraulic pump for my plow that I just bought. This pump sits right on top of my stock AC pump.

 

[seboh]

I'm not talking about it being easier. I'm talking about you ripping TRE studs off and breaking knuckles and ball joints and who knows what else.

Putting hydro on a D44 is asking for broken parts. Put a Detroit in the front if you want some turning radius back... or put in a rear locker so you don't need the front ARB so much.

 

[BoulderBronco]

I'm not talking about it being easier. I'm talking about you ripping TRE studs off and breaking knuckles and ball joints and who knows what else.

Oh, I see. That makes sense.

 

[BoulderBronco]

I looked at a couple post over on PBB. There were some good pics and such of the saginaw box but what about our stock boxes? Or are they the same? I have not messed with my box in a few years so I don't know much about it.

 

[TTBlows]

Strength of TREs and knuckles aside, it seems to do it on TTB with the Superrunner kit you'd have to anchor the ram to the frame (or the pivot drop which then attaches to the xmember which then attaches to the frame anyway), rather than being able to mount it to the axle housing. So your hydro assist is gonna leverage off your frame every time. Seems this might eventually fatigue the frame, cause xmember rivets to loosen up, rip off drop brackets, or just generally tweak/push/pull the TTB arms. At the very least I'd expect accelerated wear of the TTB pivot bushings, since these basically act as the "track bar" to locate the axle side to side.

Is there something I'm missing?

 

[axaviere]

theres a thread going now where badass posted pics of his pump thats tapped for the ram. its the one where raf asks about fittings.

 

[Davids78Bronco]

Strength of TREs and knuckles aside, it seems to do it on TTB with the Superrunner kit you'd have to anchor the ram to the frame (or the pivot drop which then attaches to the xmember which then attaches to the frame anyway), rather than being able to mount it to the axle housing. So your hydro assist is gonna leverage off your frame every time. Seems this might eventually fatigue the frame, cause xmember rivets to loosen up, rip off drop brackets, or just generally tweak/push/pull the TTB arms. At the very least I'd expect accelerated wear of the TTB pivot bushings, since these basically act as the "track bar" to locate the axle side to side.

Is there something I'm missing?

ya, its going to wreack hell on the crossmember/frame, vs a mornal ram pushing on the axle housing.

Seboh
i have full hydraulic steering on my zuk with a scout d44.
even with the scouts shitty knuckels(going to the flattop d44HD 8 lug ones soon) i have yet to break anything steering related.
i push 38's around pretty much where i want them to go, without fight or resitance from really anything.

 

[BoulderBronco]

I understand what you guys are saying and it does make sense. But any steering (with the exception of full hydraulic) leverages off the frame. More so with my Superrunner kit as it leverages at the steering box and at the other point at the drop down pivot bracket on the crossmember. I mean you could make a case for not mounting it on the axle housing because it is leveraging against it and pushing it out of position as it tries to push the tires. It's pushing the tire one way while pushing the axle the other.

 

[TTBlows]

I understand what you guys are saying and it does make sense. But any steering (with the exception of full hydraulic) leverages off the frame. More so with my Superrunner kit as it leverages at the steering box and at the other point at the drop down pivot bracket on the crossmember. I mean you could make a case for not mounting it on the axle housing because it is leveraging against it and pushing it out of position as it tries to push the tires. It's pushing the tire one way while pushing the axle the other.

Yes, it does leverage off the frame. That's why Chevy frames fail near the steering box. Besides that, the normal power steering on pretty much all vehicles is not powerful enough to cause further concern. If it is put into a situation where it's bound up, it pretty much won't move. Not so with hydro assist; it'll just push the whole vehicle over if it has to.

No offense but the second part of your argument doesn't make sense. The most logical & best place to mount it is on the axle housing. It's not pushing the axle housing out of postition, it's just trying to turn the knuckles which are directly connected to the axle housing. Sure, it will push the housing over (which will move the whole truck like I said) if it has to, but that's no problem and NOWHERE NEAR as stressful as having it mounted on the frame.

If you mount the ram to the frame it's trying to push the axle one way and the frame/body another way. If you mount it to the axle it's basically just trying to turn the knuckles, all the movement is isolated to a point below the suspension and axle mounting points.

I dunno what you're shooting for here but I'd run the Sag pump first. If that doesn't make you happy, mod the pump for more flow

http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/pwrstr.htm

and see how that goes

 

[seboh]

i have full hydraulic steering on my zuk with a scout d44.

Yeah, and what's that Zuk weigh? Probably half the curb weight is unsprung. Especially so with those 38s on.

The last thing that TTB tie rods are known for is their longevity and durability, anyway.