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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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Discussion Starter #1
So I’ve bought a 92’ XLT bronco 351w at about 191xxx miles a few months ago. I’ve done all regular maintenances aswell as entire new distributor, driveshafts, U joints, TPS, IAC valve, tranny filter and new fluid,B&M tranny pan. Had the transmission worked on as far as transfer case housing was cracked and truck didn’t like to switch gears when shifted, A/T (E4OD). Not all of this pertains to the question but figured more information helps. So my temp gauge will barely leave the Cold and almost hit the Norma reading then back to Cold and bounces back and forth yet the engine seems to warm up and heater blows decent heat. I had a thermostat at 160 degrees so just swapped it with a 180 tstat but then she started leaking.. came from a few spots so tightened all my radiator tubes and water pump housing but still won’t show it’s heated on the gauge, I think it’s leaking from the water pump pulley. Gauge stays the same and lately the upper radiator hose is collapsing after trying to warm it up and horses don’t seem to get hot like they should so idk what to do looking for any suggestions, can answer any questions thanks!
 

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Loosen the radiator cap and run it. Collapsed upper hose would indicate the system has a fair amount of air in it and is creating vacuum.
The cap should draw in coolant from the coolant overflow tank under vacuum. Bad cap or plugged hose to the overflow tank could cause it.
However upper collapsed while hot is odd. Usually it should build pressure.
 

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Yo Coop3311,
Welcome!

As advised


Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1992.pdf

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to view, due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc.
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

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See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) ... includes such as, "Tailgate Window repair & troublehooting".

➡ Try to find time to participate and vote in our current Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Prizes are awarded to winner; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription once the article is submitted ; and a years worth of premium FSB membership!

Al
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Loosen the radiator cap and run it. Collapsed upper hose would indicate the system has a fair amount of air in it and is creating vacuum.
The cap should draw in coolant from the coolant overflow tank under vacuum. Bad cap or plugged hose to the overflow tank could cause it.
However upper collapsed while hot is odd. Usually it should build pressure.
So the upper radiator hose is only collapsed after being warmed up then letting her cool down, I don’t know about the lower radiator hose I hadn’t checked that one, the leaks from the hoses have pretty much stopped but the water pump is still a steady drip. From my understanding when the water pump goes out wouldn’t it be over heating? I’m thinking my temp sensor/sending unit is bad so going to text that with a multimeter today
 

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The collapsed hose when cool is the cap or the hose to the tank. A dripping water pump means it needs replacement also.

My temp gauge hits the high side of N when the ECT shows 210 (aftermarket ECU that I can monitor). And it will move up and down with the tstat opening.
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The collapsed hose when cool is the cap or the hose to the tank. A dripping water pump means it needs replacement also.

My temp gauge hits the high side of N when the ECT shows 210 (aftermarket ECU that I can monitor). And it will move up and down with the tstat opening.
So your thinking I just need a new Temp sensor and water pump and possibly rad cap then she should be fixed? Which hose do you think could be clogged, my hoses are definitely deteriorating and when I drained the coolant only 4 months after my last flush it was murky and had little rubber bits in it so maybe clogged radiator as well
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like time for a water pump.
What else if anything would you have to throw into this conversation, I was already thinking replacing water pump and temp sensor so might aswell go for the rad cap too since it’s relatively cheap. Just any input would help cause I have had to many problems with with my bronco and just want to mob it
 

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Until the water pump is replaced (you said you have a leak behind the water pump pulley which is the weep hole to indicate that the water pump seals are gone) there really isn’t any thing else I could suggest, other than all brand new cooling hoses... on second thought, run a cooling system pressure test. But again that would be after replacement of the water pump.
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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Discussion Starter #10
Alright awesome thanks I’ll keep posting for the updates
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Until the water pump is replaced (you said you have a leak behind the water pump pulley which is the weep hole to indicate that the water pump seals are gone) there really isn’t any thing else I could suggest, other than all brand new cooling hoses... on second thought, run a cooling system pressure test. But again that would be after replacement of the water pump.
Thanks I’ll replace that and get at the radiator cap and temp sensor then run a compression test and get back with results
 

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1992 XLT, 351w, 30 All Terrain tires, not a lot of goodies just yet
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Alright so now I’ve realized both coolant sensors smell like gas and same thing with one of the long bolts that has a nut screwed on, someone snapped it off in the engine for the water pump. Not sure what to do except replace what I’ve planned and do the coolant compression test 😓
 
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