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1995 XLT 5.0L

I have already replaced the temperature sender and the thermostat and my temperature gauge stills reads cold. The gauge itself works properly because when I ground the wire it reads hot and when open it reads cold. However, when I have the engine warmed up, the top rad hose is still cold and the gauge reads that. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Yo, TURKEYBUZZARD101,
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thermostat bad or installed backwards or a blockage somewhere..
 

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thermostat bad or installed backwards or a blockage somewhere..
That was my immediate thought as well. Are you sure you didn't put the thermostat in backwards?

I remember putting one in backwards and had the same symptom. It was a MotoRad. I didn't realize it was just the brand name, and thought it was the install directions. Some thoughtless designer put the "Moto" on the side that goes toward the radiator and "Rad" on the side that goes to the motor.


Secondly, as stated, a blockage will keep it from flowing properly as well. You can have your radiator flushed, or try replacing it.
 

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I did replace the thermostat and I know it is installed in the correct direction. Would my next step be to try a flush? How do I know if I have a blockage? Can I test that?
 

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Update: It does seem that the thermostat opens up as the top hose warms up. I took it for a ride after filling er up with fresh coolant. However, the temperature gauge stills reads cold and the dash throws a CEL
 

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Is the engine temperature actually cold, or is it just the gauge reading "cold". The gauge has a "Normal" range, does the gauge ever get into that range, or is it always to the left of the "Normal" range?
If you put the thermostat in backwards, it would never open (as the sensor on the thermostat would not be on the hot side of the coolant flow). A backwards thermostat causes the engine to overheat. (I don't know what those other guys were thinking!)
When you replaced the temperature sender did you use a lot of Teflon tape on the threads? The temp sender grounds through the intake manifold (notice it has only one wire, the ground is through the manifold). Too much Teflon tape will insulate the temp sender from the intake, and with no ground, the gauge will always read cold.
A bit of caution: The temp sender has a pipe tap, pipe threads get bigger the more you thread it into the intake, if you really crank on the sender, you CAN crack the intake manifold. (J Kosserides had this happen, unfortunately he is no longer with us to warn you in person.)
 

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Is the engine temperature actually cold, or is it just the gauge reading "cold". The gauge has a "Normal" range, does the gauge ever get into that range, or is it always to the left of the "Normal" range?
If you put the thermostat in backwards, it would never open (as the sensor on the thermostat would not be on the hot side of the coolant flow). A backwards thermostat causes the engine to overheat. (I don't know what those other guys were thinking!)
When you replaced the temperature sender did you use a lot of Teflon tape on the threads? The temp sender grounds through the intake manifold (notice it has only one wire, the ground is through the manifold). Too much Teflon tape will insulate the temp sender from the intake, and with no ground, the gauge will always read cold.
A bit of caution: The temp sender has a pipe tap, pipe threads get bigger the more you thread it into the intake, if you really crank on the sender, you CAN crack the intake manifold. (J Kosserides had this happen, unfortunately he is no longer with us to warn you in person.)
I used the Haynes manual and I know the thermostat is in the right direction.
I actually filled it back up with coolant and ran it and it seems that it gets up to temp because the top rad hose gets very warm/hot. So it seems as if it is in the right temperature range.
I did use teflon tape when installing the sender, I may have used too much but I don't believe so, my meter reads a very low resistance from the switch base to ground. But I feel as if that could be the only thing at this point. I will take the tape off tomorrow and install it back in with less. I'm not too worried about installing it in too tight, I was using my torque wrench and torquing it to 10 lb-ft. I got that value from another thread here on FSB.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.0L Auto trans
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I had a non working temp guage & it ended up being the wire having a break in it somewhere between the firewall & the sender. I ended up running a new wire from the sender, to the firewall connector.
 

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Wrap a wire around the sender body to ground and see if it responds. That’ll confirm the Teflon thread tape theory.
 

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I just dealt with this problem in my 96. I ended up replacing that gauge which in mine involves the oil pressure too. Bought the wrong one but didn't notice until I took the bezel off and disconnected the unit. Turns out that the connection was a little corroded and once I cleaned it and reconnected the gauge it worked perfect. Still does.
 
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