Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
most remember the horrible problem ive been having with the steering on my truck "rolling"
ive got two options...

either i need to get the flat tops installed or figure something else out... however, im not really ready for them, i dont have 8 lug wheels yet etc etc

is there any way to get the chevy flat top pass side knuckle i have onto the pass side of my dana 44 and still use a 5on 5.5 hub for now??? i know the chevy knuckles utilize the big bearing chevy spindles and i know the spindle size is different... any tips???
basically there is no fix for the problem unless i fix the drag link position...
yes i know i would have to change the panhard bar to match d-link angle...thats do-able... i just need to get the steering to stop flopping around for a while.... im not ready for the whole chassis rebuild just yet ill eb doing

second option is take a pass side TRE and cut and turn the hole so that its facing up... that way the d-link wont push it down... what do you think about welding and sleeving a TRE... kinda iffy to me

thanks guys

dc
 

·
Engineer
Joined
·
13,163 Posts
Can you post a pic of your drag link setup. I've never experienced this before but I had a friend put the same setup on his jeep and he had similar issues and a lot more lift than I do. I'm curius what your drag link angle is and if it's possibly too steep apply excessive torque to the tie rod. I would expect that Johnski would have similar problems since he has about as much lift if not more but yet he hasnt mentioned it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
im looking into it now... mr n's article led me to a few places... looks like i may be able to get one of the small bearing chevy spindles, mount it to my chevy flat top and then use the ford hubs w/ 5 on 5.5

dc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so i found a spindle online... im gonna need the small bearing 6 bolt spindles to do it... it may work fine for now...only street...

anyways... chevy flat top pass side knuckle , 1974 F100 spindle(same as chevy small bearing 6 bolts), ford 5 on 5.5 1/2 ton hub

dc
 

·
Engineer
Joined
·
13,163 Posts
Would a drop pitman arm help at all or would it screw up your draglink/track bar alignment?
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,025 Posts
Can you post a pic of your drag link setup. I've never experienced this before but I had a friend put the same setup on his jeep and he had similar issues and a lot more lift than I do. I'm curius what your drag link angle is and if it's possibly too steep apply excessive torque to the tie rod. I would expect that Johnski would have similar problems since he has about as much lift if not more but yet he hasnt mentioned it.

It likely is too steep, but DC's aware of that since in one of his other threads on this we gave him angles we were using. John is N/A for this though, since he used dodge TRE's, and a custom lower tie rod mount for the drag....the shop drilled a hole in his DOM, reinforced with some added steel, and likely got the angle just right for his app. since he does not seem to be having any issues. I am not either, but as I recall my angle is about 4* less.
 

·
Engineer
Joined
·
13,163 Posts
It likely is too steep, but DC's aware of that since in one of his other threads on this we gave him angles we were using. John is N/A for this though, since he used dodge TRE's, and a custom lower tie rod mount for the drag....the shop drilled a hole in his DOM, reinforced with some added steel, and likely got the angle just right for his app. since he does not seem to be having any issues. I am not either, but as I recall my angle is about 4* less.
I'll have to dig up the other thread, I either missed it or I dont remember it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
after sitting and looking at the pass side tre... ive decided first im gonna try moddifying it... rather than spending extra monye on parts ill end up tossing in a few months... plus this takes way less effort

im gonna buy a new pass side tre... cut it between the joint and the hole where the d-link mounts... rotate and bevel that section down at least 1/4inch(radius) on both pieces and reweld... ill also sleeve the piece with 1.125 .120 wall DOM at that joint... maybe add a gusset too...

the tre in its stock form on top of the knuckle isnt working for the lift height i have... the d-link mounting hole is at a 76* angle from level... that combined with the 13.6* of d-link angle i have is pushing the front of the tie rod down, rather than across like it should... ill cut and reweld the TRE so the d-link hole faces a 10* - 0* compared to level... hopefully that fixes the issue... if not its only 20 bux down the drain... i think it will... this will center all the down forces on the middle of the tie rod, instead of 76 + degrees forward(down)...

dc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,423 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
the thread is called drop pitman or somthing...search my name in this section...

i can also drill, taper, and weld a 1" thick steel block to the top of the tie rod... however thats gonna change things alot right now....

moddifying the TRE shouldnt change the angle more than a degree or two... hopefully ill avoid touching the trac bar all together right now... my d-link and trac bar are w/in .2* of eachother...:D

dc
 

·
Engineer
Joined
·
13,163 Posts
the thread is called drop pitman or somthing...search my name in this section...

i can also drill, taper, and weld a 1" thick steel block to the top of the tie rod... however thats gonna change things alot right now....

moddifying the TRE shouldnt change the angle more than a degree or two... hopefully ill avoid touching the trac bar all together right now... my d-link and trac bar are w/in .2* of eachother...:D

dc
Johnski's setup looks like it's what you're trying to do with the TRE and changing your tie rod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
What about retapering a TRE with the taper offset upward? Or is that what you already said, and I missed it? I got my first TRE crooked when I reamed it, so the drag link went in at an angle (didn't end up using it). Would help reduce the drag link angle, but you'd have to use a tapered washer so the nut would sit flat.

It just seems strange, because w/ my leaf setup I have a stock pitman, TR under the knuckles, 7" of lift but it hardly flops at all (not enough to notice). My drag link angle must be way steeper than yours...
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,025 Posts
Johnski's setup looks like it's what you're trying to do with the TRE and changing your tie rod
I would say John is just about the same height as DC, and I looked at his pic very closely compared to mine tonight, and 1) I'd say he is about 3* more angle on the drag and track, and 2) that lower connection was definitely made higher up, which would help the pushing down issue.
 

·
Wrenching for a Livin'
Joined
·
6,949 Posts
I know its probably obvious, but my problem with this is if you bend/break the tierod, you gotta buy another and modify it all over again.

Or make it Uberstong and be careful....just something to think about
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,062 Posts
is there any way to get the chevy flat top pass side knuckle i have onto the pass side of my dana 44 and still use a 5on 5.5 hub for now???
My buddy did this on his Explorer. He used the Chevy knuckles, spindles and backing plates and Ford rotors.



i know the chevy knuckles utilize the big bearing chevy spindles and i know the spindle size is different...
Not all spindles are the big bearing.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top