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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive been trying to determine weather my fuel pumps are bad or something in the ignition system is causing the engine to stumble and eventually shut off when it gets hot. (its not the cooling system... read here)

so i did the probe test write up on what i thought was the TFI....here



but got 12V on both of those.
so now im confused, and the haynes is telling me that this is the TFI...



...im clueless :brownbag
 

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The TFI is the one on the distrubutor, the other is your coil. The TFI attached to the distro IIRC has a history of getting hot and it will kill the engine, happened to me on my 85 T-Bird with a 302 EEC-IV. The newer BKO's have the TFI on the Driver side of the engine compartment with its own cooling fins. You can remove the TFI (special tool required) and have it tested at your local parts store.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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The first picture, you've circled the ignition coil's connector. Looks like the original coil, too.

In the second pic, you've circled the TFI ignition module and connector. :clap

You're probably going to have to remove the distributor to get to the module's fasteners, since it appears they're almost butted against the thermostat boss, leaving no room for a wrench. Get the #1 cylinder to TDC before proceeding; look at where the #1 cylinder wire is located on the distributor cap, pop the distributor cap off, and rotate the engine over by hand until the rotor is pointing almost toward that location. Now look down at your timing pointer, and turn the engine until you get the "0" on the harmonic damper lined up with that pointer. NOW you can remove the distributor without worrying.

The TFI ignition module will fail much more frequently if you have bad spark plug wires. I can't tell from the pictures, but if they're the original, replace them NOW. Ditto for the cap and rotor.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Now's a good a time as any! :thumbup The sooner the better, since it'll run better, start easier, save gas, etc.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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33 - EGR valve opening not detected.

51 - ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.

67 - Neutral safety circuit failure.


Those first two need to be taken care of first, but especially the ECT problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
33 - EGR valve opening not detected.

51 - ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.

67 - Neutral safety circuit failure.


Those first two need to be taken care of first, but especially the ECT problem.
33-replace EGR valve?

51- Replace ECTs?... thats the one on the left of the intake manifold right? is it the same as the sending unit for the gauge?..because when i went to automoan i asked for and engine coolant tempeture sensor when really i was looking for the gauge sending unit (i didnt know they were 2 seperate things)...so my question is can i put in the sensor they gave me inplace of the bad ECTs?

sorry for the long-winded and off topic questions:twak
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
also, would these codes have anything to do with my problem with the truck stumbling and shutting off as described in here----
i havent flushed yet, BUT i did add a mech. temp gauge and its working beautiuly (thanks SigEpBlue).

i drove up a a gradual mountain road that went up a few thousand feet over 5-8 miles, maybe doing 45-50. i was keeping my eye on the temp and it never really rose above 205* and started having the same symptoms as my "overheating" problem. . it suddenly looses power, with hesitating and hick-uping and as you pull over it always shuts off. WTF!! this time could touch the pressure cap too right after pulling over... so thats not very hot. after 10-15 minutes with the hood popped, we can start up and go w/o symptoms and drive easy, but this time we went up another 800ft over 2.5miles and it crapped again. let it cool for 10 min, went DOWNHILL, went up a mile and crapped. never did the temp rise 205* when she threw a pissy fit.
..or do you think it is still the TFI/stock ignition components
 

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To fix code 33 try the following using the Haynes manual:

1) Remove the EVP sensor from the EGR and test the EVP, if tested bad replace the EVP.
2) Spray a little lub inside the EGR valve on the wall and then use a screw driver and put it through one of the holes in the bottom of the EGR and push up (not the hard). If it's stuck that should free it up.
3) Put the EVP sensor back on the EGR and test the EGR by applying vacuum on the EGR. You should hear the plate inside the EGR move. If it still fails you may need to replace the EGR valve if still testing bad.

Thanks to Steve83 with helping me fix that yesterday.

To fix code 51 just replace the ECT sensor. The ECT is located right above the water pump and uses a 1" deep socket to remove. Have the new ECT ready with the tape on the threads because once you remove the old one radiator fluid will start pouring out, have quick hands and you can replace it with minimal lose of fluid.

To fix code 67 push the clutch in when doing the test. Make sure you chalk the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To fix code 33 try the following using the Haynes manual:

1) Remove the EVP sensor from the EGR and test the EVP, if tested bad replace the EVP.
2) Spray a little lub inside the EGR valve on the wall and then use a screw driver and put it through one of the holes in the bottom of the EGR and push up (not the hard). If it's stuck that should free it up.
3) Put the EVP sensor back on the EGR and test the EGR by applying vacuum on the EGR. You should hear the plate inside the EGR move. If it still fails you may need to replace the EGR valve if still testing bad.

Thanks to Steve83 with helping me fix that yesterday.

To fix code 51 just replace the ECT sensor. The ECT is located right above the water pump and uses a 1" deep socket to remove. Have the new ECT ready with the tape on the threads because once you remove the old one radiator fluid will start pouring out, have quick hands and you can replace it with minimal lose of fluid.

To fix code 67 push the clutch in when doing the test. Make sure you chalk the tires.
thanks for the walk through!

two things

1- i was told that the gauge sending unit is different from the ECTs. the gauge sending unit is by the water pump and the ECTs is on the left side of the intake manifold. currently, the gauge sending unit is out of the block with a aftermarket mech. gauge in its place.

2-about code 67, i have a C6 auto, but id love to be pushin a clutch if i could
 

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I was thinking 67 was the clutch code, a friend was trying to do the test and he forgot to push his clutch in when doing it.

The ECT on my 89 is by the distributor in the center of the motor (up front). It has a connector with 2 wires going to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was thinking 67 was the clutch code, a friend was trying to do the test and he forgot to push his clutch in when doing it.

The ECT on my 89 is by the distributor in the center of the motor (up front). It has a connector with 2 wires going to it.
maybe SigEpBlue can chime back in here... he helped me when i pulled out the gauge sending unit... or what you say is the ECT.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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This one, right?



ECT is in the passenger side front corner of the lower intake, hidden by the throttle body and mounted in a steel heater line fitting. Temperature sending unit (for the gauge only) is in the driver's side front corner, mounted directly in the lower manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This one, right?



ECT is in the passenger side front corner of the lower intake, hidden by the throttle body and mounted in a steel heater line fitting. Temperature sending unit (for the gauge only) is in the driver's side front corner, mounted directly in the lower manifold.
thats exactly what i was looking for to show LYVFD8142.

now is the ECT the same part as the sending unit for the gauge?..because when i went to automoan i asked for and engine coolant tempeture sensor when really i was looking for the gauge sending unit (i didnt know they were 2 seperate things)...so my question is can i put in the sensor they gave me inplace of the bad ECTs? symptoms of a bad ECT would be??... high idle?


and do these codes have anything to do with my original problem with the truck crapping on me when it gets hot? or do you think it is still ignition?

thanks.
 

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The ECT sensor (device that connects to the EEC unit) is different than the temperature sending unit (Temp gauge in dash). The ECT can affect the idle if the EEC computer thanks its running to hot then it may adjust the timing to try and cool itself down.

Tell the auto part monkey that you need the ECT sensor, it will have a plug with 2 prongs inside of it.(ECT sensor and Temperature Sending Unit - Temp gauge)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The ECT sensor (device that connects to the EEC unit) is different than the temperature sending unit (Temp gauge in dash). The ECT can affect the idle if the EEC computer thanks its running to hot then it may adjust the timing to try and cool itself down.

Tell the auto part monkey that you need the ECT sensor, it will have a plug with 2 prongs inside of it.(ECT sensor and Temperature Sending Unit - Temp gauge)
ahh.. I got the ECT sensor from the guy, and it looks like the one you linked. but my gauge sending unit has the two wires as well... and didnt look a thing like the one you pictured.

when i first looked at it, before replacing it, it was just like the ECT, with the two wires. i pulled that out when i did the mech. temp gauge thinking it was jsut the gauge sending unit. but i noticed when i disconnected the "gauge sending unit" (with the two wires) it wouldn't idle right, and wanted to die. when i plugged it in it ran ok. so i just left it plugged in but out of the engine block,k but ive noticed a slighly higher idle, but never over 1K. could the PO or a shop have mixed it all up and put the ECT in the gauge sending units place?...hence why my stock temp gauge never worked? and now why it idles funny?
 
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