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Discussion Starter #1
I have been fighting a left pull for over a year and 25k miles +or-. I have thrown plenty of money and time at this issue. I finally gave in and made a appointment for a allignment/ inspection at the local dealer. I made sure to emphasize that this was not going to be a in and out toe adjustment.

See the attached thread if you want a detailed history of this issue prior to the latest allignment.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142190

We'll just fast foward to today. I actually picked the truck up a few days ago. However, I have been working on other projects for the last few days and havent really been able to drive it yet.

Today, I made a little 500 mile round trip drive to Eugene Or and back and it is still pulling left. I called the shop and talked with the tech and he believes it is the tires. "they may be too aggressive/ wrong design" ect. I know it's not the tires, I have had 4 seperate sets on it since the start of this issue.
Here are the specs from the last allignment at the local Ford dealership:
LEFT Right
.02 Camber .02
3.4 Caster 3.7
.02 Toe .02

Cross Camber 0.0
Cross Caster -0.3
Total Toe .04
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Is the steering system working properly? In other words, are you certain it's not the steering gear wanting to return to center, and/or the linkages allowing the wheels to 'float' the amount of toe-in?

Are the rear brakes, parking brake mechanisms, wheel bearings, and Traction-Lok unit all working correctly?
 

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Did you ever check the PS pump? From everything else I'd be leaning towards the pump or the steering gear valve being off. Everything in the suspension is "correct", so something else is your issue.
 

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brakes.. check your brakes... check slide pins and pistons make sure nothing is seized.. brake hoses can causes a drift as well.. this is usually mostly noticed upon braking but i have witnessed it under normal circumstances.. look at your pads and compare from the inner pad and outer pad as well as left side to right side...

are they checking all four wheels?? the tracking should be checked as well...
 

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Did you ever check the PS pump? From everything else I'd be leaning towards the pump or the steering gear valve being off. Everything in the suspension is "correct", so something else is your issue.
A P/S pump has no way of causing a pull. The gearbox may not have a good return to center and such.
 

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I have been fighting a left pull for over a year and 25k miles +or-. I have thrown plenty of money and time at this issue. I finally gave in and made a appointment for a allignment/ inspection at the local dealer. I made sure to emphasize that this was not going to be a in and out toe adjustment.

See the attached thread if you want a detailed history of this issue prior to the latest allignment.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142190

We'll just fast foward to today. I actually picked the truck up a few days ago. However, I have been working on other projects for the last few days and havent really been able to drive it yet.

Today, I made a little 500 mile round trip drive to Eugene Or and back and it is still pulling left. I called the shop and talked with the tech and he believes it is the tires. "they may be too aggressive/ wrong design" ect. I know it's not the tires, I have had 4 seperate sets on it since the start of this issue.
Here are the specs from the last allignment at the local Ford dealership:
LEFT Right
.02 Camber .02
3.4 Caster 3.7
.02 Toe .02

Cross Camber 0.0
Cross Caster -0.3
Total Toe .04


Did they check the suspension for bent parts? They may not be visual...did they give you SAI/IA readings? Are the radius arm and pivot bushings ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is the steering system working properly? In other words, are you certain it's not the steering gear wanting to return to center, and/or the linkages allowing the wheels to 'float' the amount of toe-in?
Are the rear brakes, parking brake mechanisms, wheel bearings, and Traction-Lok unit all working correctly?
Well, I don't know. BUT the steering box was changed after the main rebuild of the frontend and alignment. In fact, it was the very next part changed at the direction of a local Les Schwabs. The Tierods and draglink are all tight. inspected by myself and the Ford Tech.
The brakes are not dragging (this time). The Tech and I talked about this as well. No Track Loc.

brakes.. check your brakes... check slide pins and pistons make sure nothing is seized.. brake hoses can causes a drift as well.. this is usually mostly noticed upon braking but i have witnessed it under normal circumstances.. look at your pads and compare from the inner pad and outer pad as well as left side to right side...

are they checking all four wheels?? the tracking should be checked as well...
I replaced the front brake lines this summer along with the whole of the rear brake system. In the past I have backed the rear adjusters off until the shoes were not dragging at all and driven it to rule out the rears and it still pulls.

There are numbers for the rear on the print out and they are as follows:

Left Right
-.5 0 Camber
-.2 -.1 Toe


Did they check the suspension for bent parts? They may not be visual...did they give you SAI/IA readings? Are the radius arm and pivot bushings ok?
I did replace the center pivot and Rad bushings thru the course of this. The Ford Tech said that he looked it over and it was good.

There are no numbers listed under the SAI on the print out.

What is SAI??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SAI is an acromyn for Steering Axis Inclination.

IA is an acronym for Included Angle.

Here is a link with some indepth explanation:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/df_alignment_5.htm
Great link!!

I have some more information, even if I feel like I am chasing my tail.:banghead:banghead

I have a set of 31x10.5 15 Wild Country XTX's mounted on wagon wheels that I swaped on last night. The Ford tech suggested that I do it. I went for a 45 mile round trip drive and the truck drives perfect near as I can tell. On perfectly flat ground it will continue straight until it is disturbed, on crowned road it will drift to the ditch as every other truck would. It does not pull left. I was on it like a chubby kid on cake and no pull.

WHAT about the Cooper STT's brings out the problem. This is the second set of STT's and both sets would pull. Could it be a wheel or the wheels???
 

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what about the front end bushings?

the springs sagging front and rear? rear leafs broken?

was it in a accident?

frame bent?

ttb arms bent?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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If different tires fixed the problem, I wouldn't spend any more time or money on other problems: ditch the Coopers.
 

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Sometimes changing JUST the "wheel bearings" alone isn't enough, I'd want to know if the "races" were changed as well, shops take short cuts sometimes with a quick look and the swipe of a rag thinking everything is OK...

Scored races can add or cause similar problems causing the new bearings to wear out faster etc....synthetic grease is excellent for this application because it won't beak down like conventional grease...

There's many issues here to work thru unfortunately until you find out what's causing it..even new rotors can be warped already before installation...

A bad front end alignment can cause "cupping" on the tires and if the tires are inferior that just adds to the problem...


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #13
what about the front end bushings?

the springs sagging front and rear? rear leafs broken?

was it in a accident?

frame bent?

ttb arms bent?
The front coils were new for the second time in August (moog). There are no broken leafs and the rear does not sag.I replaced the center pivot and Rad bushings myself. The Rad bushings I have replaced a second time since the original problem. I know that the Center pivot have been in there for a while now but they were new at the begining of the problem. The truck has never been in a accident since I have owned it and the issue started about a year after I bought it.


If different tires fixed the problem, I wouldn't spend any more time or money on other problems: ditch the Coopers.
Unfortunately that is where I am leaning. My fear is that a different set of aggressive tires will make it pull just the same.

Sometimes changing JUST the "wheel bearings" alone isn't enough, I'd want to know if the ALL "races" were changed as well, shops take short cuts sometimes with a quick look and the swipe of a rag thinking everything is OK...

Scored races can add or cause similar problems causing the new bearings to wear out faster etc....synthetic grease is excellent for this application because it won't beak down like conventional grease...

There's many issues here to work thru unfortunately until you find out what's causing it..even new rotors can be warped already before installation...

A bad front end alignment can cause "cupping" on the tires and if the tires are inferior that just adds to the problem...


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
I did all of the work myself. Wheel bearings, brakes, bushings ect. I come from a Bronco family, 14 total between uncles, gramps, dad and myself and have been performing this type of MX my whole life.

I have brought it to the shop for alignments.

I personally have never heard of people just changing the bearing and leaving the old race. I would have a CHIT HEMORRAGE if they tried to pull that with me. (I know that kind of thing happens though) I did replace the races with the bearings and I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic grease for a few years now.


When on the lift NOTHING is visably bent or broken. I haven't hit anything.

The hardest day if it's life was last winter (prior to the pull). We had a couple feet of snow on the ground and there were house payments to be made. I had been chaining up and trudging 3 miles 1 way to work. On this day the snow was a little too deep and wet. I had to winch my way around in a circle to get back out. Still I was as gentle as possible and did not hit anything.
 

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Any chance the frame is not "squared" maybe bent, tweeked a little or bent knuckle, something not visible.....?

This would drive me crazy but just keep at it and hopefully you'll narrow it down....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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I had a very bad pull to the right and it turned out to be a bad tire. See if you can just throw a set on there from another bronco ( not easy I know) and see what the results are OR rotate the tires from the back to the front and see if there is a change.


Looks like the second set of tires you used confirmed what I suspected.
 

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Great link!!

I have some more information, even if I feel like I am chasing my tail.:banghead:banghead

I have a set of 31x10.5 15 Wild Country XTX's mounted on wagon wheels that I swaped on last night. The Ford tech suggested that I do it. I went for a 45 mile round trip drive and the truck drives perfect near as I can tell. On perfectly flat ground it will continue straight until it is disturbed, on crowned road it will drift to the ditch as every other truck would. It does not pull left. I was on it like a chubby kid on cake and no pull.

WHAT about the Cooper STT's brings out the problem. This is the second set of STT's and both sets would pull. Could it be a wheel or the wheels???
So after all that....you have your answer. It is absolutely most definitely your tires. Check to see if there was a recall on those cooper tires.

It seems that you had one or more shifted belts inside the tread on the coopers. With there being a second set doing the same, I would imagine thye have had issues with this particular tires (size/build location).

Do not throw anymore money into the Bronco. Have the Wild Country XTX (good Les Schwab tires) mounted onto your regular wheels and you will be good to go.

If you take it to a Les Schwab there in Aberdeen, they will most likely do it for less than discount or big0.
 

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My fear is that a different set of aggressive tires will make it pull just the same.
The issue is not the style (i.e. a/t m/t a/s etc) but rather the casing used to construct the tires in question. It seems that you aren't having any luck with Cooper Tires. So, stay away from them and move onto another brand. I have many mud terrain tires and typically have had great luck with them. Try the Maxxis Bighorn. It is inexpensive and a very decent tire!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Went for a little trip again today and it drives correctly.

Thanks guys and gals

PIZZA CUTTERS TO THE RESCUE!!
 

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Went for a little trip again today and it drives correctly.

Thanks guys and gals

PIZZA CUTTERS TO THE RESCUE!!
Always welcome bro!!
 

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I've got a left pull too. I was told it was my steering box. It doesn't pull left all of the time, just most of it.
 
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