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Discussion Starter #1
So, this is going to be a running chronicle of my front end rebuild. Steering, suspension, the whole schmeel. I am not one to redo what I have done before, so the whole thing is getting rebuilt at once, and I am only using Moog 'Enhanced' or 'R2' parts- if you have ever installed this stuff, you will know that it is far superior to really anything else out there. If you compare one of these to a Autozone or Kragen cheapie, you will understand why you will pay a little more. I expect 100k+ miles EASY with this stuff.

one website, all you need to know-

www.rockauto.com

You can get all of the Moog parts below, and is coincidentally where I just placed my order. I am not affiliated with them in any way, but run some price comparisons, and you will understand why I used them.

Main Drag Link- MOOG DS1138T
Shorter Connecting Link- MOOG DS1017T
RH Tie Rod End- MOOG ES2077RT
LH Tie Rod End- MOOG ES2078LT
Lower Ball Joints- MOOG K8195T (2)
Upper Ball Joints- MOOG K80026 (2)
Axle Pivot Bushings (Revised HD set)- MOOG K8620
Radius Arm Bushings (Thermoplastic)- MOOG K80007*
Semi-Met brake pads (optional, I'm due) RAYBESTOS PG-D632M
E40D Auto Tranny Filter kit (optional, I'm due) ACDELCO N50TF283

Order Total $ 502.24 shipped. Not the most fun way to spend some of my tax refund, but since I am doing it myself (except pressing BJs and Axle Pivot bushings), I should be able to do the entire rebuild for <$600 total including brake pads and tranny flush/filter.

* Guys, I would NOT recommend the poly bushings to replace the stock rubber ones. Case 1, I picked up more vibration in the cab and squeaks in the suspension and Case 2, the RH side has still broken down as a result of the proximity to the exhaust. The Moog 'Thermoplastic' should give a rubber ride and be better close to the exhaust.

Hopefully the part #s help, and I will take pictures and keep this up as I go.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
dale gribble said:
So, this is going to be a running chronicle of my front end rebuild. Steering, suspension, the whole schmeel. I am not one to redo what I have done before, so the whole thing is getting rebuilt at once, and I am only using Moog 'Enhanced' or 'R2' parts- if you have ever installed this stuff, you will know that it is far superior to really anything else out there. If you compare one of these to a Autozone or Kragen cheapie, you will understand why you will pay a little more. I expect 100k+ miles EASY with this stuff.

one website, all you need to know-

www.rockauto.com

You can get all of the Moog parts below, and is coincidentally where I just placed my order. I am not affiliated with them in any way, but run some price comparisons, and you will understand why I used them.

Main Drag Link- MOOG DS1138T
Shorter Connecting Link- MOOG DS1017T
RH Tie Rod End- MOOG ES2077RT
LH Tie Rod End- MOOG ES2078LT
Lower Ball Joints- MOOG K8195T (2)
Upper Ball Joints- MOOG K80026
Axle Pivot Bushings (Revised HD set)- MOOG K8620
Radius Arm Bushings (Thermoplastic)- MOOG K80007*
Semi-Met brake pads (optional, I'm due) RAYBESTOS PG-D632M
E40D Auto Tranny Filter kit (optional, I'm due) ACDELCO N50TF283

Order Total $ 502.24 shipped. Not the most fun way to spend some of my tax refund, but since I am doing it myself (except pressing BJs and Axle Pivot bushings), I should be able to do the entire rebuild for <$600 total including brake pads and tranny flush/filter.

* Guys, I would NOT recommend the poly bushings to replace the stock rubber ones. Case 1, I picked up more vibration in the cab and squeaks in the suspension and Case 2, the RH side has still broken down as a result of the proximity to the exhaust. The Moog 'Thermoplastic' should give a rubber ride and be better close to the exhaust.

Hopefully the part #s help, and I will take pictures and keep this up as I go.
yea, the moog stuff is good. I would go spicer wherever possible if you have the money, but that's my opinion. Question though, if you are not doing the balljoints, it sounds like you are at least going to take the knuckles down somewhere just to have them pressed out/in? Cuz otherwise, labor is going to put you beyond your mark. Good luck, will probably ride sweet once you've done all that.
 

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Lick my balls
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Are you saying that all those parts are worn out at the same time, you must have fun driving it straight down the road.?
I noticed you are only buying 1 upper ball joint. ALWAYS REPLACE BALL JOINTS IN PAIRS, because if one is worn out the other one wont be be far along.
I'm sure there are a lot of people out there that can really benifit from you replacing all that with some pics, cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I meant two uppers ball joints... misspell.

As far as a shop, I have one that will do an R/R for $10 ea, so $40 total. I don't have the $$$ for Spicer... Course Spicer is OEM right? I want to be able to lube the BJs, I have never liked and/or trusted sealed BJs. I like the Moog because they put the zerks where you can actually lube em.

No, the parts are not all worn out- at this point, my lower BJs are in need of R/R, and the steering stuff is pretty sloppy. So, for the same work, I can rebuild everything, so it's hard not to take the extra few steps and do it all.
 

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When I rebuilt my frontend I used all Moog and Energy Syspension parts for suspension and steering. I have no complaints, the Moog parts were noticably heavier duty than the TRW parts I've seen.

 

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I didn't see u-joints in that list, or bearings. If you're going to all the
trouble to pull the knuckles, why not replace the u-joints and lube the
slider? And either repack or replace the bearings.

For that matter, as long as you've got it that far apart, drop the 3rd
member, drill and tap it for a drain plug, and put a lubelocker gasket
on it and fresh gear lube in it.

Just my thoughts.
 

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Lick my balls
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13,029 Posts
sewiv said:
I didn't see u-joints in that list, or bearings. If you're going to all the
trouble to pull the knuckles, why not replace the u-joints and lube the
slider? And either repack or replace the bearings.

For that matter, as long as you've got it that far apart, drop the 3rd
member, drill and tap it for a drain plug, and put a lubelocker gasket
on it and fresh gear lube in it.

Just my thoughts.
I'll second that.
 

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Sway's jealous of my
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2,856 Posts
I got Spicer balljoints from 4wheelcustoms. Can't tell you what I paid for them though, never got a breakdown of what everything costs. I do know that I got everything cheaper then it would have cost from JBG and its all named stuff.

I like OEM. Motorcraft, FRPP, Spicer, Borg-Warner, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sewiv said:
I didn't see u-joints in that list, or bearings. If you're going to all the
trouble to pull the knuckles, why not replace the u-joints and lube the
slider? And either repack or replace the bearings.
The ujoints are on an as needed basis. Since they probably only have about 500 miles on them total, I am not going to preemptively buy replacements.

Inspecting and repacking/replacing bearings is implied in the work I am doing as a regular part of the job- that's why I didn't mention it. However, since I did say 'D44 rebuild guide' I guess that is misleading. I will rename it to be true to what I am doing.

As far as the third member, if it ain't broke, don't fix it- I will just suck out as much as I can get and replace the gear oil.
 
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