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September 15 FOTM
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1,482 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
fixed some engine wiring and it now starts and shuts off with a key. and the glow plugs cycle. also replaced both batterys and replaced the cables. went with 2/0 for crossover and grounds and 3/0 for starter. i used marine terminals instead of stock ones. truck fires right up now.
still having electrical issues though. when you turn either blinker on all brake lights flash. and when you turn the headlights on only the headlights turn on..
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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10,509 Posts
Those problems are a bit easier. Unfortunately, if cycling the hazard switch a few times doesn't clear up the turn signal problem, the switch will require replacement. So, pull and push the hazard switch three, four, five times, fully out then back in. Sometimes they don't go all the way back in and get stuck between modes. As for the marker and dash illumination lights, there should be fuses in the panel underdash, numbers 4 and 17, to feed the marker lamps and to feed the dash illumination. Since 4 and 8 (all courtesy lamps) come off the same IGN pin, both should have power at the fuse block; however, fuse 17 won't have power unless the headlamp switch is in either 'ON' position. That way, you can pull the switch pigtail and test for power at each pin, as necessary. But, if the pigtail's burned or melted, you'll need to replace both the switch and pigtail.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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10,509 Posts
So other than the scotch locks, are there any other problems on that wiring?

Edit: aside from that totally rusted 'ground stud?'
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,437 Posts
Not to mention multiple splices within an inch of each other!

My game feeder uses those scotchlocks on the charging system. Damn coons pulled the motor wire loom and pulled the solar panel leads out of the locks.
 

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Premium Member
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2,185 Posts
Two butt connectors within an inch of eachother, it looks like someone didn't measure quite right and then had to splice in a couple of extra inches. Is that cut wire grounded or does it go nowhere?
 

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September 15 FOTM
Joined
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1,482 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Two butt connectors within an inch of eachother, it looks like someone didn't measure quite right and then had to splice in a couple of extra inches. Is that cut wire grounded or does it go nowhere?
Its probally supposed to go somewere. There was 2 cut wire in the engine harness that were wire nut together. They were the 12 to the glow plugs and fss...
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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10,509 Posts
Jeez. I've said it before, and I'll say it again...some people shouldn't operate anything more complicated than a ham sandwich.
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,482 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
not much has changed since i posted last but major changed this comming week.
i was driving for work and saw a totaled chevy ramp truck on the side of the road. so i pulled over to see if i could buy the bed. he said he would sell the bed for 1000, but then said he would much rather sell it all for 3500. all complete rust free decent interior, new tires, alcoas, new winch, mild built 355 with less then 10,000 miles same with the trans. figured i can buy it complete and get my money back
received_3075483115802880 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

received_355874448409670 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

hit above the frame so no frame damage. posted the partout ad last saturday morning and started to strip it. sold the engine and trans, cab, and interior by the end of the day for 2000$. the engine was actually sold to the person driving when it was wrecked.

20190713_152058 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

20190714_110225 by Angelo Mehtala, on Flickr

next day trailered the rig to the warehouse and got its bed off. next weekend joining the two.
 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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4,573 Posts
you are splicing the two frames together to accommodate the longer bed? Nice looking Alcoa's...they going to make it onto the other truck?
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,482 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
you are splicing the two frames together to accommodate the longer bed? Nice looking Alcoa's...they going to make it onto the other truck?
yes. that bed is completely welded to the frame. it would almost be easier to build new vs trying to get that bed off. I want to use the alcoas. we are using the chevy rear. corperate 14 bolt. since it has a higher weight rating so the wheels will fit the rear. but in the front ill still have to figure it out. the chevy hub it smaller then the ford and those wheels are hub centric. same lug pattern though
 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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4,573 Posts
whats the total estimated length of that completed unit? I assume there will be a hefty length of double frame vs just a decent notch weld...?
Am curious about the wheelbase too...imagine that it will rival the length of a semi tractor.

As far as wheels....its been a long time since I've looked at a Ford and Chevy dually front end...but they have a extended hub/spacer IIRC. Is it possible to machine one to fit the other? Guess I can search some photos to check it for myself...was sorta thinking out loud.

Interesting project....and I applaud your ambition to tackle it.
 

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September 15 FOTM
Joined
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1,482 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
whats the total estimated length of that completed unit? I assume there will be a hefty length of double frame vs just a decent notch weld...?
Am curious about the wheelbase too...imagine that it will rival the length of a semi tractor.

As far as wheels....its been a long time since I've looked at a Ford and Chevy dually front end...but they have a extended hub/spacer IIRC. Is it possible to machine one to fit the other? Guess I can search some photos to check it for myself...was sorta thinking out loud.

Interesting project....and I applaud your ambition to tackle it.


i dont remember the wheelbase but entire lengths about 35ft. max legal straight trucks 45. right now the rig has a 7x3 1/4 angle that runs down almost the entire frame. we plan on cutting 3 feet past the end of that angle, and about 2 feet under the ramp on the chevy. im going to fish plate the inside then continue the from where the angle ended on the rig to a couple feet past the fishplate. hodges built these beds on a tube steel frame about 6" above the truck frame with rectangle tubing welded to both every couple feet. so since the joint will be under the bed i feel it will be plenty strong since the bed will really stiffen it up. then i have the angle to stiffen up the space between the cab and bed.

i havnt taken the wheels off so im not sure yet, but im either going to get the ford dually spacer machined or see if they sell a adaper one. i am really against running spacer adapters on something like this. I dont want to get the wheels machined since then the two fronts wont fit the rear.
 
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