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TTB Hater of course
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3,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This was not my design, but I did build it and a few of the ideas were mine ;) The beauty of this design is no angles are involved.

Start with a cardboard template, 12" deep and 37" wide (the distance from outside to outside of the framerails), figure out where the 'case will drop thru. You'll then transfer this to .250 12" flat bar (yeah, plasmas are nice). Template:



From here you'll basically keep adding on smaller and smaller rectangular boxes until the 'case is covered. We discovered that about 1/3 of our hole only needed the relief of 1/4", so were just able to lay flat plate over that and weld it up. Then we covered the rest with channel 2 x 7, and had to cut a small hole in the channel for the lowest bolt of the 1356. Here are two shots of the finished product, one's too dark and one's too light:





To allow for the lowest bolt we were scrounging around trying to find something in my scrap pile that would work with a minimal amount of fab. Well, the remainder of a TTB arm of course! See, TTB is good for something



The finished product installed:


DS profile:


PS profile:


The hole for the drain plug was my idea LOL
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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10,875 Posts
:thumbup
But you haven't "fixed" the trans cross member yet. New idea for this truck, or the same as your own?

More details, those aren't MTR's, whos truck is this?
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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11,532 Posts
nice, I just started working on my skid today too.

how about your exhaust? dosent the stock cat hang down in the way? I cant recall
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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11,532 Posts
oh wait I just relized thats not your truck......

so did you use 1/4 for eall the plate or no?
 

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FSB warrior
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6,118 Posts
thats not his truck the skid is on.... that ones got TTB!!
 

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FSB warrior
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6,118 Posts
you beat me to it!
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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10,875 Posts
Pony-boy said:
I see the MTR's
That's in the background. Look at hte Generic AT's on the Truck it's mounted on, plus the Trans crosmember is stock, KL's is custom for ground clearance.

Do we need a vehicle line up to ID it?
 

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TTB Hater of course
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3,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, we used 1/4" for all of it (I think the TTB arm was 3/16"). If possible some angle across the whole top edge would combat potential buckling. We thought about that once we were done (and out on the trail :goodfinge ), but that can always be added later. Also want to close up the front of the lowest piece (TTB scrap) at a slight angle so it "ramps". If this doesnt' make sense, don't worry about it........it's no big deal.

Amazingly it clears the stock cat with zero issues. This was on a '96.

Anyone could cut this (frequent test fitting reco'd) and then take it to a welder to have them melt it together.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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11,532 Posts
only thing I would be concerend about is the lowest part catching on rocks and getting hung up as where a smooth plate will have a tendacy to just slid over.

might just be the crack talking and/or could be totally wrong but that was my first impression on looking at it.
 

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TTB Hater of course
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3,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Dustin said:
might just be the crack talking and/or could be totally wrong but that was my first impression on looking at it.
That's entirely true. Just a question of whether or not you want max clearance at every possible spot, or give up some clearance to have a smoother surface. It's a juggling act, just like lift height vs sidehill stability or wheelbase vs breakover.

No way is right IMO, just different preferences
 

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shibby
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4,828 Posts
Keith_L said:

The finished product installed:


This is the only one I looked at (dial-up) but it seems to me that you'd still push that skid right into the t-case if you landed directly onto a rock, high-centering. I'd add square tube to the top side of the back edge to reinforce it.
 

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TTB Hater of course
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3,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Re: Re: The simplest damn 1356 skidplate you'll ever build (56k warn)

Dustball said:
This is the only one I looked at (dial-up) but it seems to me that you'd still push that skid right into the t-case if you landed directly onto a rock, high-centering. I'd add square tube to the top side of the back edge to reinforce it.
:deal

angle, square tube, whatever
 
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Guest
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Beefy, Strong and it shoulndn't hit. Nice work!. If it does hit, I think it gets caught easy with those 90*'s corners. I'm going to bubble mine down around the t-case as you all did, but angle it aft and fore so as not to have the corners.
 

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hates EVERYTHING!
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11,456 Posts
Keith_L said:
That's entirely true. Just a question of whether or not you want max clearance at every possible spot, or give up some clearance to have a smoother surface. It's a juggling act, just like lift height vs sidehill stability or wheelbase vs breakover.

No way is right IMO, just different preferences
Very well said dude!!!:thumbup

Oh and nice write up!!:beer
 

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Support our troops!
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My Bronco

Yes my little weenie 33" tires vs the monster meats that Keith runs. However that being said I did allright at Moab testing out the skid plate this weekend. Only two runs, Hells Revenge and the Moab rim. Never hit the plate but I tore off the front licsence plate and twisted up the POS rear bumper. Now I need to get some 1/4" rectangle tubing and talk Keith into a little more welding :)
 

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Support our troops!
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Blown said:
Beefy, Strong and it shoulndn't hit. Nice work!. If it does hit, I think it gets caught easy with those 90*'s corners. I'm going to bubble mine down around the t-case as you all did, but angle it aft and fore so as not to have the corners.
Swat, use plenty of TTB stock :)

dc
 
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