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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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I'm sure there's a murray frame around here with one still on it.
if you stumble across one let me know..I'd come pick it up..
 
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Discussion Starter #682 (Edited)
Here's the painted parts from the slot machine.
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I need to change a trailer tire. For this we will need some equipment, which means a trip to....... the BACK YARD! duh DUH DUHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!


Anyone want this piece of shit? Ate the transmission at 122k
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First we need to find yard mower and yard cart.
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Here they are!
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It's been a while since you've seen yard cart. When I built it I made a handle but never a tow bar. The weight of the cart alone makes it a PITA to pull by hand, and as a result it rarely got used.
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A while back I got sick of it and whipped up a tow bar out of an old pipe. Ever since it's gotten alot more use and hauled ever heavier stuff. I also painted it.

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Discussion Starter #683
You can probably tell by now I have pages worth of pictures of yard cart being put to work. Maybe I'll post them all one day. Unfortunately ever since I moved the most protection its ever had from the elements is a tarp. Combine that with the fact that I abuse the hell out of it and you get this.
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The wood is rotting and literally falling apart. This thing not only endures the elements, but I've manhandled engine blocks, parts, engine hoists and tons of generators onto it. Luckily the deck was always meant to be the sacrificial piece. It will get a new deck soon.
And I suppose this needs and introduction. Everyone, meet yard mower.
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Yard mower is a frankenstein hodge podge of parts born in the same circumstances as yard cart. I had a need, and fulfilled it using leftover parts.

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It started off with a riding mower, I can't remember which at this point. The buyer traded in 2 mowers in pieces. One was a murray widebody LT. Missing an engine.
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The other was a Craftsman LT1000 missing the hood.
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I had enough parts to make one working mower. He claimed the craftsman was a beast (they all do). Unfortunately the craftsman had a hole in the deck, hacked up fenders, missing the hood, and a bent front axle. It doesn't matter how well a mower works, the worse it looks the harder it is to sell, and a missing hood makes them look like hot garbage. So the decision was made to steal the engine and use it to fix the murray. Here's how it looked when I sold it.

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I sold the Deck from the craftsman. Which left me the bare frame. As you saw before I was using my primary mower to haul stuff around. This was an issue as that mower still has a deck, which tends to hit stuff in my yard and high center it. What I needed was a mower I didn't care about with no deck just for pulling things around. So yard mower was born.
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The engine is a 12hp flat head I had on the shelf for years. It came out of a LT4000 I flipped. I had honed out the cylinder to bring back some compression and get rid of the smoke screen but when I got it in the yard with a load it started rattling like crazy. It ran fine but was too noisy for me to sell. It got replaced with a kohler. The rear tires you may recognize, they're the Turf masters from the poulan, which i still have.I loved the traction so I ran them on my craftsman (you can spot them in the pictures) until they started to get low. I bought new tires and put these ones on this mower as it needs all the cheap traction it can get. It ran hoodless for quite a while. The poulan became my dad's mower when I moved out, but eventually the hood on it broke apart. I bought this one to replace it but it wouldn't fit over the V twin, so yard mower got it. I found myself frequently needing light while moving things around, so I installed 2 rear facing led spots (should have bought floods). It proved infinitely useful from day one. Like when it rescued this go cart after the sump bolts backed out.
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Discussion Starter #684
Ok, where the hell was I again? Oh yeah, changing tires.
Barely get yard mower started thanks to the dying battery. Be annoyed by the lights that are now always on because the switches you salvaged from carpet cleaners got water in them.Wait for smoke screen to clear.
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Locate tire changer
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This tire changer was mounted onto just a pallet before. It rotted out and I had to build this new base. It consists of a pallet with a bunch of 2x6s I had laying around. you can tell it's new because the wood isn't weatherd to shit yet.
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wrestle the tire changer onto yard cart. Don't forget yard mower has crappy brakes.
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Drive to the front. Unceremoniously dump tire changer onto the ground in shade. The shade part is important.
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Gather tools, tire, and rim.
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dump air from tire. Its easiest to remove the valve core. Note homemade tool. It was easier to find than the proper one.
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Place tire on changer. Break bead.
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You really gotta put your weight into it. Repeat on other side.
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Secure tire on changer.
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Discussion Starter #685
Use Iron to pull bead of tire over the lip of the rim.
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Rotate iron around center post.

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Repeat for other bead.
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The old tire is now off the rim. Now for the fun part.
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Lube up the bead of the new tire you overpaid for.
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Shove the tire as far onto the rim as you can. Put your weight into it.

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Use the Iron to pry the lower bead over the rim lip.
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This is the part that sucks. Set up the iron as shown. Rotate around the center post. Its tricky to get it started pulling the bead on. Make sure you hold the bead down opposite of the iron so that its in the center of the rim, this way the tire doesn't have to stretch as much. The vice grips provide an extra handle, as the iron will want to rotate during this.
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You likely won't be able to rotate the iron all the way around. Get as far as you can, then flip the tire iron in an arc around the end that's on the bead. This will push the tire bead down, it should pop onto the rim. If not it should be close enough to require minimal motivation.
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Discussion Starter #686
Seat the bead. You should be wearing hearing protection for this.
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One boring trailer tire ready to go.
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Now how about something not so boring.
225/70r15 General Grabber AT2s and Junkyard Toyota steelies.:love:
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Would you believe that these chrome valve stems from Orielly's are cheaper than the slime ones from walmart? Too bad I hate chrome.
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It's what dreams are made of.:cool:
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I'm not telling you what they're going on. You're just gonna have to figure that out yourself.?
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Discussion Starter #687
Autodimming Compass/temperature mirror install in a Trailblazer.
 

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any advice on swapping a briggs I/C in place of a briggs intek. 17.5 hp. One carb better than the other? If you ever have a intek piston that is still good save it for me.

Use a light truck tire instead of a trailer tire you wont over pay next time. $20 or less used from salvage yards.
 

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Discussion Starter #689
any advice on swapping a briggs I/C in place of a briggs intek. 17.5 hp. One carb better than the other? If you ever have a intek piston that is still good save it for me.

Use a light truck tire instead of a trailer tire you wont over pay next time. $20 or less used from salvage yards.
The I/C moniker showed up on flatheads, opposed twins, and inteks. Unless you mean a flathead. In that case minimal wiring and plan on swapping mufflers. Nikki carbs need gaskets and are picky, walbros tend to get leaky needles/seats. I can't recall ever seeing a flathead with a nikki though. I have tons of intek pistons, just can't rememer where they are and what size engine they came out of.

car tires are different from trailer tires. Trailer tires have stiffer sidewalls designed to handle heavy loads. Car tires will deform too much and cause higher rolling resistance, very undesireable when your vehicles tend to be underpowered as it is. I'm the opposite of most people, My trailer tires tend to wear out before they age out. I overpaid because I bought it from a trailer place last minute when I could have ordered the same tire for $35 less. I always get radials because they're rated at 75mph. It's not worth the risk of cheap used tires.
 

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I will photo the engine tomorrow. Not sure if it was a flat head or intek I/C. I know it did have a metal engine cover and not the plastic one my intek has. Both are single cylinder. Was there a big difference in piston part number/size among the inteks engines? I would love to just swap my old piston and run the current engine longer. You would think the engine is wore if it needs a piston but mine ate a carb screw that chewed up the top of the piston/head. Did the head swap and it ran for about 50 feet with poor compression/blow by. I just enjoy pushing all the life I can out of "junk."

Ive had some good luck with junkyard find tires, but it is harder to find a LT rated tire load range D and E in the yards that is in good condition. I hear a lot of people run them with no problems even on 8 lug trailers.
 

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Discussion Starter #691
I've never actually bought pistons or rings for an intek so I couldn't tell you. AFAIK the only difference between ratings is the stroke of the crank but I'm not certain.
 

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Discussion Starter #692
Getbent you still looking for pistons? These are the only 2 I have for inteks but it sounds like you have either a flathead or one of those weird ohv hybrids with the flahead bottom end.
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I Moved into my house sometime around 2015. At the time I had to get crappy homeowner's insurance because nobody wanted to insure me due to the roof. It was at the end of it's life when I bought it, and not just in writing either. It was the original 3 tab roof from 1994 that had miraculously survived and wasn't leaking despite 3 dishes mounted to it. When I moved in I planned to replace the roof, I even bought a nailer off CL. But there were other priorities, so I just kept patching it with chewing gum and band aids over the years. Well a few months ago I got a letter from my insurance company. If I didn't get the roof replaced they wouldn't renew my coverage, and I kinda need that for my mortgage. Now I could have shoveled out 11k for a roof but wheres the fun in that. So over the course of weeks, I taught myself roofing.
This is the bullshit that was there before. 3 tab, granules falling off. I could slide all the way down the roof on my feet it was so bad.
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With every hurricane I lost more and more tabs. I didn't give 2 fucks about the roof as long as it didn't leak, so I just caulked up the seams and nails every time a tab blew off. The corner was in rough shape. so I nailed a piece of gutter scrap over it, caulked it up, and rattle canned it black. It held for several years.
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Part way through tear off. This proved way harder than anticipated. The fact that I gave a shit about the gutters didn't help.
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Part way through the back.
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I had a $20 nailer I got off craigslist as well as a HF nailer I got from my neighbor who died. Unfortunatey the CL nailer was missing a spring and wouldn't feed nails reliably, and the HF nailer needed a different trigger for bump fire (the **** HF!?) Luckily my neighbor loaned me his like new nailer, which happened to be the same model as my CL nailer.
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Much like everything else there's many different options when it comes to roofing materials, but I

I wanted the good shit. And that's what I got. Owens corning duration Architectural shingles, rated to 130mph even though these will never see that. Proarmor synthetic underlayment. Proper starter shingles, pro edge hip and ridge shingles. I was able to get everything through a legit roofing supplier. By the time it's all said and done, including tools I'm in it about 4k. Not too shabby.
When we first started on the underlayment we were doing it by hand. This is because the gun that can fire the cap nails was pricy and not rentable. Took about an hour per row, a whole day for the front. That night I went to lowes and bought that damn nailer. $300 well spent. 1 hour per row became 10 min. In a few hours the entire back was done.
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What made this process a big PITA was the inspections. Because Florida is known for hurricanes the codes for nailing roof sheathing has changed over the years. Boards have to be nailed 6" on center where it used to be 12". If you do your own roof you have to have a dry in inspection done once the underlayment is on. This means either you have your shingles delivered after the dry in inspection, or you have to lug them onto the roof yourself. Good thing my dad was helping me and he's still in good shape.
planning out the valley.
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Valleys are the worst part. The thing about roofing is that every idiot claims their way is right and everyone else is wrong, regardless of codes or location, and you can't seem to get a straight answer out of anyone.
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I'm going with a closed cut valley, which seems to be the standard around here. These overlapping shingles will be cut and sealed down.
 

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Discussion Starter #694
finished valley.
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This shot shows both valleys.
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Making progress.
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At this point the nailer was giving me serious problems. IDK if it sat around too much or wasn't lubricated, but despite having almost no use before this it was regularly kicking back, missfiring, and the worst part, firing 2 nails. I tried everything but nothing made it better. So I robbed the feed spring off it and with a roofing nail cobbled my $20 CL nailer together.
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This was what I used to finish the roof. It doesn't kick quite as hard but is actually more consistent with nail depth. It was about this time that I finally had my nailing technique to a point where I was happy with it as well. I ended up buying my neighbor a brand new nailer to replace the now fucked up one he gave me.
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I didn't trim them like this, after nearly 2 weeks of roofing the shingles had worn away my fingernails. Yes it hurt. I was using lotion every night but my hands were worn to shit.
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Nearly there.
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I was using 2 utility trailers for tear off, and they stayed put through most of the roofing process. The 6x12 was out front, but the 5x8 ended up taking on most of the debris, as it could be moved with the lawn mower and fit into tighter areas. It ended up in the back corner, and by that time was way too heavy for the mower to handle. so I had to squeeze the trailblazer back there to get it.

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I don't think pictures show just how tight it is back there. I was using 4wd and had no space to manuever.

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Discussion Starter #695
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Don't do this. Just don't. 2300 lbs are sitting on this trailer. There's no way that axle is rated for more than 2k lbs. The suspension is maxed, the axle is bowed, tires cambered to shit. It's been on jack stands for the last 2 weeks because of the weight.
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All in all I hauled and unloaded by hand 3300lbs of roofing debris.
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I picked up this pressure washer off the curb after a bunch of clearing was done on a run down property nearby. Given it's condition I suspect it broke years (maybe over a decade) ago, was left by a bush, and eventually consumed by said bush, until finally being freed.
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It's horribly rusted, and there's stuff growing through it.
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Originally I thought it might be savable as a pressure washer, but after seeing the quick connect rusted on I knew it was too far gone. It felt locked up solid when I first got it, but I was able to free it after removing the blower housing and loosening the coil. Surprisingly the oil was good and not contaminated. It will fire and run if you dump fuel down the intake. Being that its a 9hp Honda,This was definitely a good find. I don't have any current plans for it, but I needed to separate the engine from the cart and pump for storage reasons. The pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to mutilate it to get it off.

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........ I could go for a milkshake.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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pretty impressive tackling that roof by yourself..
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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What a great idea! I have a gas powered pressure washer that will only start with starting fluid, hot or cold. Maybe I'll learn how to fix it on this thread. I'm following this.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #698
I bought my trimmer brand new in 07. A few years back it slowly became more and more finicky. Finally last year it got to the point where it was nearly impossible to start. So I brought it home and tore it apart. Turned out there was nearly no compression whatsoever. The cylinder bore was worn out, the piston scored, and the ring was so worn out it didn't hold any tension. At the time I wasn't sure what to do, so I decided to slap a used piston/ring in it and throw it back together. To my surprise it actually brought back the compression, and made it usable again. Of course that couldn't last. It was a used piston and ring running in a worn out cylinder. Eventually it began to loose compression and become a nightmare to start again. So I pulled the trigger.
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That would be a brand spanken new short block. Set me back about 130 for the block and handle foam. Now I know what you're thinking. Why the **** would you dump money into a 13 year old trimmer when a new one is $220? I have my reasons. First, I hate emissions engines, only the blowers can have the finickyness tuned out. I went from a pe225 to the screamin demon Frankenstein SRM2400SB to get rid of finickyness. I had no desire to deal with that again. Second, I like the SRM210. It may not be the most powerful but it does what I need it to without being overly heavy. This particular trimmer, while having many hours on it, has had a number of new parts put on. The carbuetor and gear box have both been replaced in the past, and there really aren't many other wear parts on it. So putting a new short block on it will get me many more years of use. Now if I'm honest, this short block means I've now spent more on this trimmer than a new one will cost, as the gearbox was $70 and the carb was $50. But by fixing it I avoid emissions bullshit, and with the way I use it I made the money back in the first week, so IMHO its money well spent.
This is what it looks like after 13 years and god knows how many hours.
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Spark plug is pretty crusty. I don't have a new one on hand but the ultrasonic should clean it up pretty well.
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Old short block separated. Notice anything unusual about the coil? I'll let you mull it over for a while.
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Carbon buildup in the exhaust port. Keep in mind this is after maybe a season and I'm running synthetic oil.
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Here's how you remove the starter cup. Give it a quick whack and it will unscrew.
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The clutch calls for a little more care, as more force needs to be applied and we don't want to damage the shoes. It threads on just like the starter cup.
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The flywheel needs to be broken free, but it's not a good idea to wail on the clutch. So find a nut instead. Hold the block by the flywheel and wack the nut.
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Appreciate the Irony of bolting crust part to a shiny new block. There's that coil again. Still not telling you what it's for.
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Discussion Starter #699
Bolt the block onto the blower housing mount thingy.
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Install muffler with new gasket that came with the block. There's 2 gaskets included as this block fits the older SRM 210 and the newer SRM 225. Unless you hate yourself use anti seize on the muffler bolts.
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Install starter and new carb with new primer bulb since it broke the other day.
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Before putting the spark plug in add some lubricant to the cylinder so it doesn't start dry. What kind of lubricant?
Fetch spark plug from the ultrasonic cleaner. Not perfect but looking pretty good.
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Ok fine I'll tell you what's up with the coil.
This is what it looks like stock.
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This is mine. The coil, wire and boot are from an emissions engine. Notice how the paint is worn away at the corner of the blower housing near the hole for the wire? That's where your arm rubs, and on stock models it rubs on the wire and boot. I went through 2 boots and wires because they kept wearing through, and the grommet would leave black marks on your skin. On emissions engines the plug wire exits right next to the spark plug and connects from the opposite side, so it doesn't rub your arm. With minor trimming on the shroud I was able to use the late model coil and avoid all these problems.
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I've used it for 2 weeks now, still need to retune the carburetor but it's way better.
 

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I have a srm-230 (same gray covers) I trashed picked missing the throttle assembly and head. Good to know they are good machines and to keep it.

I finally remembered to take a picture of the riding mower (not a trash pick find- paid $100 and have few hundred in new parts in it) engine. Apologize on the delay on that. Believe it's from 2004 so safe to say intek? This is the engine with the top of piston smashed.

(Notice the junkyard floor mats and Honda trunk liner I cover it with heh)

Good job on that roof; insurance job wise they want way too much here. Insurance company would of probably paid out 11k and time the contractor got done with it they would of billed the insurance company 15k or more saying their was additional work needed (when there really isn't; and some of it they bill for they never do; removing gutters; repainting, new flashing depending on age, etc. If I was local I would of donated some labor just for the learning experience of DIY.
 
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