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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400/C6 92 K documented miles &1994 Bronco,XLT 85K original miles
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What a great idea! I have a gas powered pressure washer that will only start with starting fluid, hot or cold. Maybe I'll learn how to fix it on this thread. I'm following this.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #702
I bought my trimmer brand new in 07. A few years back it slowly became more and more finicky. Finally last year it got to the point where it was nearly impossible to start. So I brought it home and tore it apart. Turned out there was nearly no compression whatsoever. The cylinder bore was worn out, the piston scored, and the ring was so worn out it didn't hold any tension. At the time I wasn't sure what to do, so I decided to slap a used piston/ring in it and throw it back together. To my surprise it actually brought back the compression, and made it usable again. Of course that couldn't last. It was a used piston and ring running in a worn out cylinder. Eventually it began to loose compression and become a nightmare to start again. So I pulled the trigger.
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That would be a brand spanken new short block. Set me back about 130 for the block and handle foam. Now I know what you're thinking. Why the **** would you dump money into a 13 year old trimmer when a new one is $220? I have my reasons. First, I hate emissions engines, only the blowers can have the finickyness tuned out. I went from a pe225 to the screamin demon Frankenstein SRM2400SB to get rid of finickyness. I had no desire to deal with that again. Second, I like the SRM210. It may not be the most powerful but it does what I need it to without being overly heavy. This particular trimmer, while having many hours on it, has had a number of new parts put on. The carbuetor and gear box have both been replaced in the past, and there really aren't many other wear parts on it. So putting a new short block on it will get me many more years of use. Now if I'm honest, this short block means I've now spent more on this trimmer than a new one will cost, as the gearbox was $70 and the carb was $50. But by fixing it I avoid emissions bullshit, and with the way I use it I made the money back in the first week, so IMHO its money well spent.
This is what it looks like after 13 years and god knows how many hours.
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Spark plug is pretty crusty. I don't have a new one on hand but the ultrasonic should clean it up pretty well.
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Old short block separated. Notice anything unusual about the coil? I'll let you mull it over for a while.
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Carbon buildup in the exhaust port. Keep in mind this is after maybe a season and I'm running synthetic oil.
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Here's how you remove the starter cup. Give it a quick whack and it will unscrew.
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The clutch calls for a little more care, as more force needs to be applied and we don't want to damage the shoes. It threads on just like the starter cup.
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The flywheel needs to be broken free, but it's not a good idea to wail on the clutch. So find a nut instead. Hold the block by the flywheel and wack the nut.
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Appreciate the Irony of bolting crust part to a shiny new block. There's that coil again. Still not telling you what it's for.
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Discussion Starter #703
Bolt the block onto the blower housing mount thingy.
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Install muffler with new gasket that came with the block. There's 2 gaskets included as this block fits the older SRM 210 and the newer SRM 225. Unless you hate yourself use anti seize on the muffler bolts.
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Install starter and new carb with new primer bulb since it broke the other day.
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Before putting the spark plug in add some lubricant to the cylinder so it doesn't start dry. What kind of lubricant?
Fetch spark plug from the ultrasonic cleaner. Not perfect but looking pretty good.
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Ok fine I'll tell you what's up with the coil.
This is what it looks like stock.
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This is mine. The coil, wire and boot are from an emissions engine. Notice how the paint is worn away at the corner of the blower housing near the hole for the wire? That's where your arm rubs, and on stock models it rubs on the wire and boot. I went through 2 boots and wires because they kept wearing through, and the grommet would leave black marks on your skin. On emissions engines the plug wire exits right next to the spark plug and connects from the opposite side, so it doesn't rub your arm. With minor trimming on the shroud I was able to use the late model coil and avoid all these problems.
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I've used it for 2 weeks now, still need to retune the carburetor but it's way better.
 

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I have a srm-230 (same gray covers) I trashed picked missing the throttle assembly and head. Good to know they are good machines and to keep it.

I finally remembered to take a picture of the riding mower (not a trash pick find- paid $100 and have few hundred in new parts in it) engine. Apologize on the delay on that. Believe it's from 2004 so safe to say intek? This is the engine with the top of piston smashed.

(Notice the junkyard floor mats and Honda trunk liner I cover it with heh)

Good job on that roof; insurance job wise they want way too much here. Insurance company would of probably paid out 11k and time the contractor got done with it they would of billed the insurance company 15k or more saying their was additional work needed (when there really isn't; and some of it they bill for they never do; removing gutters; repainting, new flashing depending on age, etc. If I was local I would of donated some labor just for the learning experience of DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #705
I have a srm-230 (same gray covers) I trashed picked missing the throttle assembly and head. Good to know they are good machines and to keep it.

I finally remembered to take a picture of the riding mower (not a trash pick find- paid $100 and have few hundred in new parts in it) engine. Apologize on the delay on that. Believe it's from 2004 so safe to say intek? This is the engine with the top of piston smashed.

(Notice the junkyard floor mats and Honda trunk liner I cover it with heh)

Good job on that roof; insurance job wise they want way too much here. Insurance company would of probably paid out 11k and time the contractor got done with it they would of billed the insurance company 15k or more saying their was additional work needed (when there really isn't; and some of it they bill for they never do; removing gutters; repainting, new flashing depending on age, etc. If I was local I would of donated some labor just for the learning experience of DIY.
The SRM 230 is the next step up from the 210. If I'm not mistaken they still sell a 230. Main difference IIRC is handle mounting and displacement. I have a SRM2400sb for an edger. 26 cc. If it ever quits it will get a short block as well. I call it the screamin demon. These Grey shrouds were made by Kioritz. In 2008 There was a merger between Kioritz and Shindaiwa, The new Holding company is Yamabiko. This is about the time they switched to orange shroud engines, and they will bear the Yamabiko name. The designs didn't really change. The new Orange shrouds are still good machines but being designed to meet emissions they tend to run a bit leaner and have Cats in the mufflers. This means they don't like to go WOT until warmed up and can be finicky. Not usually a problem unless your a landscaper who needs it to run WOT for 10-20 minutes at a time 10-20 times a day.
We run speed feed heads on everything now. About $30 and worth every penny.

That's an Intek. Recognize that shroud anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #706
Cut out the top and bottom pieces for the slot machine. I'm not worrying about recreating these insets.
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Because the original cabinet was MDF (and MDF sucks ass) they used metal inserts with machine screws everywhere. I'm not reusing all of them as drilling the inset holes for them is a PITA.
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The hardest part were these inset squares for the hinge mount backing plate.
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Cabinet finally coming together. I used 18 gauge brad nails for initial assembly.
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This back piece is a completely different type of wood but still very nice. Instead of offsetting it in I just attached it to the back.
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There's no wood glue holding this together and brad nails weren't enough, so the sides got countersunk screws for extra support. Only the back panel is held on solely with many brad nails.
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The original back panel had several slots for ventilation, which would have been a royal PITA to cut. This is my favorite method for creating ventilation. I bought a pack of these 120mm computer fan grates a while back, and a 4" hole saw creates the perfect size hole. It won't be attached until the cabinet is painted but when done it will look factory.
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It may seem backwards to start mounting stuff before painting, but only the outside is being painted and I wanted to make sure everything would fit. This is the main board bracket.
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Discussion Starter #707
158742

Rememer when I mentioned that everything had a steel insert? Well I meant EVERYTHING. It simply isnt necessary (or reasonable) to drill and countersink inserts for every little thing. so for non critical components I'm using these tek wide flange shallow depth screws.
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Believe it or not I washed that coin hopper out in my utility sink. It'll be fine.
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This stuff is called plastic wood, it's basically bondo for wood. I first used it to repair a chewed up window sill in my house. I'm using it to fill in large gaps and imperfections. I probably went overboard.
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First layer sanded down.
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Second layer of plastic wood.
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Discussion Starter #708
Long time readers may remember the poulan. It was a "what the hell" buy during my flipping days that ended up sticking around for several years. I used it when my mower was down, and it became my dads mower when I moved out. Unfortunately it had a number of issues and one day it just refused to start. Then it got replaced. I swapped out the engine for a much better one, and discovered the starter was clapped out which is why it always sounded like it was dying. I kept it around for a long time but The simple fact is that with me now running a ZT and my dad having his own this is a 4th mower that never gets used. So I've decided to finally sell it. The hood was never in great shape but my dad was less than careful with it and it quickly went to complete shit. This is what it looks like now.
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I managed to source a craftsman hood for it a while back that fits. Only Problem is it's green.
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Decals removed, pressure washed, sanded and ready for paint.
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This primer is really just to make sure the paint sticks.
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3 coats of gloss black, 2 coats of clear.
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Nobody will notice that the side says poulan but the front says craftsman.or this crack.
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The clear was a bad decision. My dumb ass put it on too heavy and it ran in multiple spots.
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Discussion Starter #709
I picked this 40v Ryobi jet blower off the curb. Looks like new. Listed it for sale as is, turns out it doesn't work. Motor spins but doesn't really blow.
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Tore it apart and found this. They used this chincy plastic coupler and it stripped out.
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Simple fix right? Just replace the coupler and you're good to go. WRONG! you have to buy the whole damn motor to get it. Its not worth me fucking with. If anyone wants this thing pay for shipping and it's yours, I've got enough junk and I don't want it.
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I also started this. It will become a new utility winch mount. Some asshat stole mine off my trailer back in January, while I was clearing out the fun center I worked at for nearly a decade. Left the jump box though, guess it wasn't shiny enough.
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Those cordless tools are most likely from home Depot return pallet buys..atleast where a lot of the junk ones originate from. You can sell it on eBay as parts only; might not go for much as the cordless tool market is flooded with pallet returns.
 

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Discussion Starter #712
Sanded the cabinet and painted it. This is Behr eggshell matte. I have no clue what the eggshell part is all about. It looks flat black to me. More importantly it was free.
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"new" cord to replace the old one.

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Working on Final assembly.
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Door installed. I didn't really do anything to the door except blow it off. The rusty pieces would require major disassembly to remove, and it just isn't worth it right now. Maybe sometime in the future.
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Contact.
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Not this shit again. Nobody wants to deal with your damn alarms!
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Push buttons until it acts normal.
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One of the bulbs is out, I tried a 194 but they must have used 24v bulbs or something cause it was way too damn bright.
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Took me forever to figure out how to work this damn thing. I've never played a slot machine before. I thought the coin hopper was broken when it wouldn't feed out tokens. Turns out you have to push the red button for that.
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The door could use some cleanup but for now it's done. It will live here next to the treasure chest for the time being. Did I mention my living room is full of arcade games?

159511
 

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Discussion Starter #713
In 2013 I built this winch plate. I originally built it around an old HF 2000lb winch. It sat on the shelf for years because there were no controls to go with it and I had a little 12v boat winch that was given to me. Well the problem with those boat winches is they kinda suck. One direction, a PITA clutch that slips when the going gets tough, and poor reliability. So a few years back I got a 2500lb badlands winch and mounted it on. It's better than any other utility winch I've ever used. Heavy, yes, but It doesn't have any of the issues a normal utility winch does. Unfortunately some asshole stole it in January. I Managed to scrounge up some of the same metal I originally used at my parent's house and built a new one as close to the old one as I could.
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The dimensions aren't exactly the same since I was going from memory, but same basic design. The main difference is a beefier fairlead mount. It also uses the newer smaller fairlead, the last one used the larger fairlead from the older winch design, which did cause some problems.
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Battery clips were added to the stock winch wiring for easy power hookup. The only other modification to the winch itself was the removal of the anti birdspool tab. The first winch I ever got I left it in and it got bent up and dug into the drum till it knife edged. Also it just never worked. So now I remove it on all my winches.
159516
 

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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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@pfun41 Boy, where to begin...awesome thread, I’ve repaired many a small engine as a homeowner. Some I was even successful!!! I’ll have to spend time reading up your info.

For now, My sons is 24...he’s welcomed to stay as long as he wants....but I want him out on his own. It’s a parent thing...you’ll understand some day.

Speaking of parents, do not second guess them. Telling you to evac was and IS the correct thing. Don’t gamble in a Cane...your life is not worth it.

Trust me, I bought my 1st home at 26...CONGRATS BTW!, and not 2 years later Andrew blew by. My parents, deceased now, pleaded to stay with them, in my childhood home. Did I listen? No! I spent the most harrowing night of my life...thought I was a goner. My parents, some 4 miles North of me...they lost a small palm frond and slept the whole night.

I’m a retired building inspector and hold various FEMA accreditations ti conduct damage assessments. I’m now, since retired, am on a “on call” status with the Feds, should my services be needed in the next natural disaster, which, being in hurricane alley, will occur again. Bottom line, trust me...your parents were 100% correct!

Sorry, I feel like I’m talking to my son and you’re like Dude, you sound like Pops,,so to change the subject,

I didn’t know they were asteroids left in the universe....because I single handedly blasted and vaporized zillions of them back in the early ‘80s!! I was the Asteroids Ace...I’ll challenge anyone today....I know I still have it!!

Take care brother!
 
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