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aka: kemicalburns
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a few years ago I installed a new thermostat housing that would allow for a temp sensor to be installed. my mechanical gauge required a few different fittings because the probe was way to long, this caused it to not get a good reading since only the tip was exposed to the radiator fluid.
I am now considering moving this to the temp sensor location on the driver side lower intake and moving that sensor over to the Tstat housing.
Anyone see an issue with this? I know I will get a better reading on my mechanical gauge this way. I am also assuming these would share the same size fitting?


Thanks everyone
Travis
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,833 Posts
I have my temp sender probe in the factory spot in the rear of the block on my 300 and my warning light sender in the T-Stat housing. Works great.

Cant help with whether the threads are the same or not.
 

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Man of endless projects
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id keep it on the intake and jsut find a better adapter. the temp sensor on the t-stat housing wont read much untill the t-stat opens up. might make it read funky as it opens and closes. if you do that id drill a hole in the t-stat for it to let more coolant bypass through it

could put it on the heater hose with a adapter. thats how i would do a e-fan sensor as it reads proper temp from bypassing the t-stat. but if the sensor does not have a ground, you have to run a wire from the sensor to the engine as a ground. even the one in this pic has a wire for running the ground
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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id keep it on the intake and jsut find a better adapter. the temp sensor on the t-stat housing wont read much untill the t-stat opens up. might make it read funky as it opens and closes. if you do that id drill a hole in the t-stat for it to let more coolant bypass through it

could put it on the heater hose with a adapter. thats how i would do a e-fan sensor as it reads proper temp from bypassing the t-stat. but if the sensor does not have a ground, you have to run a wire from the sensor to the engine as a ground. even the one in this pic has a wire for running the ground
Do you have a link to this piece? I might want that. Is that 1/8” NPT threads for the sender?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is all great, unfortunately my mechanical sender will not at all reach any of these hose locations to even use a heater hose spot. So needless to say I guess I will have to extend some wiring so the stock temp gauge sender can be moved.
 

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Do NOT move the stock sender from it's factory location. Your engine will hate it being somewhere else that it doesn't want to be. I am serious. There is a reason the factory put it there and it is for more than just a gauge. It is used to control the EFI system. Locating a temp gauge anywhere other than on the engine or the heater hose, if it is bypass flow type of heating system, will give you incorrect readings. Why not do away with the mechanical gauge and get an electric one if you are set on having an additional temp gauge?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Do NOT move the stock sender from it's factory location. Your engine will hate it being somewhere else that it doesn't want to be. I am serious. There is a reason the factory put it there and it is for more than just a gauge. It is used to control the EFI system. Locating a temp gauge anywhere other than on the engine or the heater hose, if it is bypass flow type of heating system, will give you incorrect readings. Why not do away with the mechanical gauge and get an electric one if you are set on having an additional temp gauge?
I thought the ECT sensor on the heater hard line near intake runner 1 was for telling the computer how to run the EFI. Isn’t the one near runner 5 just for the gauge?
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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I thought the ECT sensor on the heater hard line near intake runner 1 was for telling the computer how to run the EFI. Isn’t the one near runner 5 just for the gauge?
Correct, the gauge and sensor for ECM are seperate. At least on this era of truck. The gauge sender doesn't have a 2 wire conection on it, just a stud.
I do agree on not moving the ecm coolant sensor though.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,471 Posts
Correct, the gauge and sensor for ECM are seperate. At least on this era of truck. The gauge sender doesn't have a 2 wire conection on it, just a stud.
I do agree on not moving the ecm coolant sensor though.
Question: does coolant constantly run through the heater hoses when the heater is not on? With the ECT in the hard line I would assume so, but just making sure.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Question: does coolant constantly run through the heater hoses when the heater is not on? With the ECT in the hard line I would assume so, but just making sure.
yes, coolant is constantly flowing through those hoses..run your rig up to temp and grab ahold of them you'll see they'll both be hot..
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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yes, coolant is constantly flowing through those hoses..run your rig up to temp and grab ahold of them you'll see they'll both be hot..
That’s what I though but wanted to make sure that was a good place to put an aftermarket fitting for my electronic auto meter coolant temp gauge.
 

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So a few years ago I installed a new thermostat housing that would allow for a temp sensor to be installed. my mechanical gauge required a few different fittings because the probe was way to long, this caused it to not get a good reading since only the tip was exposed to the radiator fluid.
I am now considering moving this to the temp sensor location on the driver side lower intake and moving that sensor over to the Tstat housing.
Anyone see an issue with this? I know I will get a better reading on my mechanical gauge this way. I am also assuming these would share the same size fitting?


Thanks everyone
Travis
Have you tried purging the air out of the system. It’s a pain, but until you do, nothing functions correctly. Some shops have a vacuum purge for it. I just kept overfilling it about 5 times. You leave air in the system and it will overheat and never run correctly. Even Ford garage couldn’t get it right.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Have you tried purging the air out of the system. It’s a pain, but until you do, nothing functions correctly. Some shops have a vacuum purge for it. I just kept overfilling it about 5 times. You leave air in the system and it will overheat and never run correctly. Even Ford garage couldn’t get it right.
my Gauges function, but due to the fittings for the mechanical gauge only allowing 1/16 of the prob into the tstat housing it would take a long time to read and like others have said it just doesnt present the best reading due to the location....
 

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I put my sender for my autometer guage in the intake where the original was, reads perfectly
 
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