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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
well, i was gonna say you'll need to start buying them in the store. but....then now you have two so i guess not!
Haha I was getting there! I may just hold onto the next one for a bit to make sure this first one isn’t a lemon.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
Joined
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250 Posts
is your problem solved, most probably you know already, the way mostly recommended to have a bullet proof steering:

red head steering box (386 USD if you return a "good" core)
borgeson steering shaft (different joint style)
saginaw pump (wildhorses for example)
all metal lower steering column bearing
new linkage
moog tie rod ends, etc.

all together this is costly for sure, on the other side, steering wobble on a highway is not even a no-go.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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3,674 Posts
is your problem solved, most probably you know already, the way mostly recommended to have a bullet proof steering:

red head steering box (386 USD if you return a "good" core)
borgeson steering shaft (different joint style)
saginaw pump (wildhorses for example)
all metal lower steering column bearing
new linkage
moog tie rod ends, etc.

all together this is costly for sure, on the other side, steering wobble on a highway is not even a no-go.

that probably covers the most commonly recommended suggestions, but i'd disagree that is the only way to achieve trouble free steering. i'd also contest that is not a guarantee for trouble free steering.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
is your problem solved, most probably you know already, the way mostly recommended to have a bullet proof steering:

red head steering box (386 USD if you return a "good" core)
borgeson steering shaft (different joint style)
saginaw pump (wildhorses for example)
all metal lower steering column bearing
new linkage
moog tie rod ends, etc.

all together this is costly for sure, on the other side, steering wobble on a highway is not even a no-go.
I'd say that those are good parts, but not required for good steering. I do have all new steering linkages, tie rod ends, saginaw pump, external oil cooler and filter, and a 4-bolt steering gear. When I installed this gear last year, it was great - very tight and being a super duty part, it's durable. I have abused it a bit though, partially at my fault and partly unavoidable. It's seen some hard wheeling and some really bad unavoidable potholes in the road - one of which was bad enough to do some real damage to a smaller vehicle. This is one reason I installed a steering stabilizer to dampen the forces on the steering system from terrain.

That is why, if you look at the steering gear above that I got, it is a replacement 4-bolt gear and not the stock 2-bolt gear. As long as it's not a bad part, it should serve me well. I do have a back-up too, so (y)
 

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Premium Member
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4,286 Posts
The 4 bolt 32 spline output shaft gearbox is also on the 97-06 4.6 and 5.4 econoline vans and 2000-2005 excursions.

To categorize it I'd put it in a similar category as the Dana 50 solid axle. It came on d50 trucks if they were 4x4 (not required for the 4 bolt box). The Dana 60 trucks received a 36 spline box ford categories as more heavy duty.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Ok, funny story. You guys aren’t gonna believe this sh!¥! Maybe you will, actually. So the second gear arrived today......but this is what showed up:


Here is the one I ordered (note the circle at the top):


I am now calling this whole thing “The Saga of Ole’ Cardone.” All I can do is laugh at this point. So I chose to just get refunded the amount and move on with the correct 4-bolt gear I have in the garage (which after all is said and done, has cost me nothing) and then I’ll get a $170 check back when I send my core in. So yeah, I’m ok with that.

Anyone have any ideas what kind of upgrades I should do for let’s say......around $170? Lol
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans
Joined
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250 Posts
that probably covers the most commonly recommended suggestions, but i'd disagree that is the only way to achieve trouble free steering. i'd also contest that is not a guarantee for trouble free steering.
you are fully right and I will not disagree - I expect even with absolute fresh stock components there is very high chance to have a proper steering.
However - why not use the improved parts proven their abilities?
 

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Registered
78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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1,687 Posts
you are fully right and I will not disagree - I expect even with absolute fresh stock components there is very high chance to have a proper steering.
However - why not use the improved parts proven their abilities?
Cost. @MS88Bronc was initially trying to improve it for free by getting a new steering gear with a rebate that would make it cost nothing. Even at $50 that's significantly cheaper than a Redhead steering gear. Ask me how I know.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
Joined
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35,887 Posts
Dude... my old harley parts cost more than a redhead but some things are just worth digging a little deeper. ;)
No dispersion cast your way MS88. Been there. Hope it works out and if it doesn't... you've still got options.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Dude... my old harley parts cost more than a redhead but some things are just worth digging a little deeper. ;)
No dispersion cast your way MS88. Been there. Hope it works out and if it doesn't... you've still got options.
No sweat brother. The way everything has worked out thus far, there’s no telling how this will wrap up. I was initially planning on coming out $35 ahead, then it turned into $50 out of pocket. However, due to amazon shipping fu$& ups, I am out exactly zero dollars right now with a steering gear sitting in the garage. The core will net me another $170 or so down the road. Hopefully soon, the Rona will start to subside and my work will pick back up. Clocking about 1/2 hours lately is making it hard. At that time, if things aren’t better, I’ll try a redhead.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
Joined
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35,887 Posts
I haven't checked but I know redhead is in WA state and we've been locked down by Emperor Idiotslee... so they may not even have been open for business. It is a small outfit. I've been wanting to get my Corbin seat refurb'd but Corbin is in Cali and still haven't returned my email, so... I think you did the best you could probably do at the time anyway. (y)
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Ok, new gear is in place. I also drained the system of the type F and while I had the PS pump and bracket out, I cleaned up the oil pressure switch connection with a small wire brush. I was going to change the oil pressure pressure switch but I forgot to pick up a socket for it. I’ll just see if cleaning up the connection helps. I filled up the reservoir with Mercon since that is what I had on hand - I looked it up and apparently lots of folks run Mercon. I started bleeding the system. This gear did NOT want to fill up with fluid. Then when it finally started circulating fluid it got frothy and the pump was complaining. So I shut it down and I’ll go back later and try it.

How long does it take for the bubbles to go away?



I’ll go back tomorrow and replace all the tie rod boots. My knees are killing me.
 

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Registered
78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
Joined
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1,687 Posts
Based on where your input and outputs are on the steering gear (top of the gear) it should be faster than my 78 is/was. Did you crank it back and forth a gazillion times without the engine running first?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,302 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Yeah, I pulled the coil wire and gave it 3 second cranks - maybe 5 or 6 times. Fluid didn’t want to go down, gave it a few more cranks and it went down a little bit. Filled it back up and cranked it a few more times. Didn’t go down. So said “eff it” and started it for about 5 seconds. Fluid went down. Filled it, cranked it, turned the wheel back and forth. Pump made some noise so I shut it down. Looked inside and filled it up but saw froth this time. Letting it sit now. Just looked inside (1.5 hours later) and I don’t see froth. I may just give it another hour of so - letting my knee rest for a minute.

Sucks getting old, and I’m not that old.
 
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