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Discussion Starter #1
I was talking to a guy at Summit Racing today and we were talking about lockers. I told him I read here that you can't lock the TTB case and he asked me why and I said because it puts too much stress on the axle shafts to have it locked full time. He said a friend of his has a Bronco with his gears welded and of course only uses the locker when he is wheeling and locks the hubs. :doh0715: Duh I said that makes sense... Does it??? What are the ramifications of doing that to my TTB?
 

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a Dana 44 TTB uses all the same lockers as a solid axle Dana 44.

Lock it is not a issue, but your going to need spare axles and hubs because the D44 is not strong with large tires.
 

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a Dana 44 TTB uses all the same lockers as a solid axle Dana 44.

Lock it is not a issue, but your going to need spare axles and hubs because the D44 is not strong with large tires.
What he said...

I havent seen anyone say you CANT lock a ttb. Its that you have to consider whether you SHOULD. Once you put a full time locker in there, you will have full power split evenly between the two wheels, which if you get bound up, means there is not place for the energy to go when you are on the gas. In an open dif situations that would go to whatever tire is sticking in the air or has the least pressure, so that tire would spin and the one on the ground would get no power to it, therefore avoiding a broken axle. Its the U joint design that creates the weak spot in the ttb when you lock them, and the best way to deal with it if you decide to lock is to do the C clip elimination, carry extra parts and get good at changing them...

I think if you put a full time locker in the back, you would go most anywhere you wanted and would probly not need the front locked... My 2 pennies worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I'm not going to lock the rear. I am going to use an Aussie or similar LSD. I am not a hard core wheeler and I don't think I would ever lift a tire off the ground..at least not if I can help it. I understand about the welded dif. I will be using 35" tires only so maybe I'll just go with the Aussie and the hell with it.:haha How about a Aussie type locker for the TTB??
 

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I would advise against leaving the rear open or putting in a lsd and locking the front. it puts way more stress on the front shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So maybe a Dana 44 Aussie in front too?
 

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I would advise against leaving the rear open or putting in a lsd and locking the front. it puts way more stress on the front shafts.
What he said. Again. ;)

If you have the locked front but a LS in the back, the LS will never even begin to work before your front will be doing its thing, and that could easily lead to breakage. You would pretty much be running locked from, open rear (I know not technically, but thats how it will feel). That gives you way more potential to break stuff in the front.
 

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i would say truetrac front and rear. since its not a dedicated mudder, i would think the Aussie would be annoying onroad. truetrac is gear driven and not clutch style so it wont give as many problems. i was thinknig bout welding the front and rear in my 88. the rear i might still do but the front i decideded that would be really annoying to getting out to lock the hubs when your about to go through a hole and unlokc when you wanna steer on solid ground. Aussie in the front might work too since it doesnt engage till you have the transfercase in 4x4 however as everyone says, then your putting alot of stress on the weak points on the D44
 

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I guess like anything how and when you use your vehicle will have ramifications on what will or will not work the best. The amount of dollars you want to spend will also affect your options as well.

On my last Wrangler I went with the ARB lockers front and rear and after doing so I will say that although spendy they are worth the investment. Totally locked front and rear when the situation calls for it and unlocked at all other times makes a great driver.

Personally I would not want a totally locked front end whenever I was in fourwheel drive. If you deal with snow and ice you will find situations where with a locked front end you will not be a happy camper at all.

Also I would definately not want a locked front with an open rear.Even on the ARB set up it would not let you apply the front diff unless you had the rear already locked.

I recently aquired another Bronco that will be getting the treatment in the near future and my past experiences with selectable diffs will have those be the choice on this build as well. Yes it hurts when you lay out the funds at the time of purchase but it does really give you the best of all the worlds on a day out, day in basis.
 
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