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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys and gals...

I am replacing my bent to crap tie rods with some "get my through until I do my D60 swap" tie rods. The new to me rods are in great shape, but the boots are toast. I ordered some replacement ones from Ferd and they are due in today or tomorrow....

The question is, what is the best way to replace the old, trashed ones without cutting/splitting/trashing the new ones? Any specific tools that will help? Any tips/tricks?


Thanks in advance...
 

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Depends, you are saying the one on the bent up tie rods are good ??? If you are lucky you can flip the nut and pound easy to break it loose.

If you use a pickle fork, thats what rips the boot if not supper carefull.................

Sorry have not bought tie rods in a long, long time. If they still come with rubber boots, I use Energy suspension poly boots instead of the rubber ones............
 

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Looking underneath my BKO right now I see where you'll need to remove "cotter pins" and crown bolts anywhere there's a boot. I would spray all the bolts with PB Blaster....when you go to replace your tie rod ends you'll have to take it apart and the boot fits over the TR end shaft as they do in the linkage....

Invest a little grunt time ....lol lol.....but it shouldn't be that hard, use a breaker bar or torque wrench with socket so you'll have leverage to unscrew the bolts if they're stubborn from corrosion and pickle fork which has a tapperd end to lift the TR end out and ....AND "replace any cotter pins" that look questionable, they hold the crown nut in place and keep it from backing off which would be disasterous when driving.....

When you go to grease all the zerks......fill up each boot until a little grease seeps out and you're good to go......

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry guys. I think I was not clear in my question.

I am replacing the bent tie rods with ones from the JY. The ones from the JY have torn up boots that have to be relaced. I will be taking the old dust cover boots off the tie rods from the JY and replacing them with new ones that I bought from Ford.

The dust cover boots utilize a metal washer surrounded by rubber that fits over the tie rod joint. It is a tight fit. I dont know if they can simply be lubed and slid on, or if there is a trick to getting the boot end to fit over the tie rod joint and seat onto the tie rod. I can see an issue with forcing them on and cutting/splitting them.

Clear as mud now??
 

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sorry dumb ass here, never heard of the tie rods you mention ???

None of the rides I worked on had fited boots.............
 

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yo Shane,
ltns!
Are you using this type Tie Rod Dust Boots, Black?


It should be lubed and slipped over; unless it was slapped together in China (notice how I avoided the "manufactured"?), it'll prob be a tight fit and not worth the effort.
if so, just return em and save the $ for another repair/project.

GL!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yo Shane,
ltns!
Are you using this type Tie Rod Dust Boots, Black?


It should be lubed and slipped over; unless it was slapped together in China (notice how I avoided the "manufactured"?), it'll prob be a tight fit and not worth the effort.
if so, just return em and save the $ for another repair/project.

GL!
Rip the old ones off, and slip the new ones on...

:doh0715:

I dont think mine are like those. Mine are the OEM ones. The base of the ones on the JY TRs is very ridgid, like a metal washer surrounded by rubber. I will give a set of the ones I ordered a shot and if they dont work, will order the ones for JBG.

Thanks guys.
 

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miesk5:
I should probably put these on my to do list mine are looking so so, should I get them from "bronco grave yard" for $20.00 or go locally to Kragens, Ford Stealership or that other place, 4 Wheel.....something...?

Thanks ~ :thumbup
 

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This isn't for tie rods, but I just did balljoints and the moog seals use a metal "ring" inside the rubber. It was tight to fit them onto the balljoint, but careful work with a screwdriver got them. I'd think you'd be able to do the exact thing with your TRE boots.
 

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miesk5:
I should probably put these on my to do list mine are looking so so, should I get them from "bronco grave yard" for $20.00 or go locally to Kragens, Ford Stealership or that other place, 4 Wheel.....something...?

Thanks ~ :thumbup
JK,
wuz my friend?
I'd go w/Ford MC parts..see if you get the Ford PN and then google it for better price. I get my Ford parts via Troy Ford via AMAZON; they are VG at delvy and esp pricing; I bought a $150.00 DPFE Sensor for $50.00 with free shipping and no sales tax; Local dealers wanted 150.0 +

same price & discount for an Idle Air Control (IAC) - they don't sell ALL the Ford MC parts at those prices though, but maybe you'll get lucky:thumbup

EDIT:
Just did a search there for you and found they sell:
Energy Suspension 9.13101G Black HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Tie Rod Dust Boots - Set of 2
$5.95 $3.95
In Stock
Round shape boots with 0.590 inside diameter and 1.375" base outside diameter


HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Tie Rod Dust Boots - Set of 2
$5.95 $3.95 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25
In Stock Energy Suspension 9.13101R Red HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Tie Rod Dust Boots - Set of 2
$5.95 $6.79
In stock but may require an extra 1-2 days to process.
 

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Dustball: Hey thanks Brother for posting/offering that but I think it would be really cool to get some colored ones (red) for the TR ends and Linkage just for a change...

miesk5: I'll check it all out, thanks for all the info.....

:thumbup
 

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miesk5:

I printed a page off O'Reillys who have them thanks, what size are the ball joint dust covers.......if they make them, just curious.....?

:thumbup
 

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I went to O'Reillys today to buy/order these dust boot covers (4) and I want to know, referring to post # 8 picture here, are the dust boot covers for the "steering link connections" the same size as the tie rod ends..?

O'Reillys doesn't show steering link dust boot covers in their system so I want to get it right.....I do see post #14 miesk5 shows:

Energy Suspension 9.13101R Red HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Tie Rod Dust Boots, Red is what I want so should I order 4 of these...?

I really want to get this done in the next couple of days while GF is seemingly in a good mood, she accompanied me to the Westside Meet UP at 7:30 pm at an IN.N.OUT Burger...(to eat no doubt)......can you believe that.....

Thanks Guys ~ :thumbup
 

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I went to O'Reillys today to buy/order these dust boot covers (4) and I want to know, referring to post # 8 picture here, are the dust boot covers for the "steering link connections" the same size as the tie rod ends..?

O'Reillys doesn't show steering link dust boot covers in their system so I want to get it right.....I do see post #14 miesk5 shows:

Energy Suspension 9.13101R Red HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Tie Rod Dust Boots, Red is what I want so should I order 4 of these...?
Same size, PN 9.13101R (red). 2 for the tie rod ends (steering link connections) and 2 for the drag link studs. They come in 2-packs and are not expensive. Don't forget replacement cotter pins, grease gun, pickle fork and a BFH.

The easiest way to make the TRE stud drop out is to leave the loosened castle nut on a few threads and pound away with a 4 lb. hand held sledge hammer on the front end of the spindle. The shock will release the tapered TRE stud which will drop onto the nut. I use a pickle for for the drag link connection, again a tight fitting tapered stud.

You might have to use a small screw driver to fit the new boots over the tie rod ends, but they will compress when you tighten down the nuts.

Use a torque wrench when replacing the castle nut on the drag link/tie rod end studs, 52-74 ft-lbs, and move up to the next castle nut notch to insert the new cotter pin.

I just did my F250 in about two hours, including jack stands, tire R&R and replacing the brake pads while I was in there. :thumbup
 

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That's what I thought after reading it again and they cost around $4.29 per 2 pack at O'Reillys...so $9-10.00 max...NBD there...

Now I'll have to either get a pickle fork or an XBFH....lol lol...well I'll order them today anyway and see maybe if RickyB's got a pickle fork I can borrow....I forget, is there a particular size PF I need or not.......job now becoming PITA...lol..lol..

So with the torque wrench, torque it due to the tapper on the stud and possibly back off if necessary to line up the castle nut to the cotter pin hole, it's been awhile since I've done this.......?

It's got to be done though.....:rofl:...AAAGGGHHH

Thanks Brother...:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used the BFH techique that SFSB recommended. Quick and easy. It may not hurt to have a couple of extra castle nuts on hand because I compressed a couple of mine using this method and had to replace them.

For the record, I ended up going with stock replacements from Ford. They do have a metal ring that is supposed to fit over the tie rod. They are a complete PITA to put on and I ended up spliting most of them (I did 2 sets of tie rods, 1 trail spare). I used an oversized socket that cleared the boot and rested on the edge of the ring, but the ring is covered by the boot. When I tried to tap them on, the socket cut the boot (as I expected it would).

The energy ones seem to be the way to go and will be what I use next time...
 
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