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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '96 won't hold an alignment anymore, so it's time to upgrade. I've been reading all about the tie rod flip over the past year, but there are a lot parts lists out there, and some of the inserts for the knuckles aren't available anymore. Instead of latching on to an old thread, I figured I'd start a new one.

What parts do I need to get? Does anyone have part numbers handy? Who sells the inserts these days? Does anyone have the kind where I won't need to ream the knuckle?

All guidance is appreciated! I'm looking to tackle this before Christmas. Thanks!
 

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the common way is the JBG sleeves and a 7* reamer.

the other way is using sleevs and a 7/8" drill bit. but idk what sleeves worn and which dont. so i stick with the JBG sleeves myself
 

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Thanks to the man above. Unfortunately the prices of these pieces keeps going up in my Amazon cart.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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I used these to do mine:

 

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ah, one that is actually designed for Ford tie rods. that would be a good option. i know people used to use the RuffStuff ones but they say for Chevy 1-ton rods and supposedly do not fit despite saying 7*

only reason i dont like the straight drilled ones is if the hole is slightly bigger than the sleeve, nothing will take up the slop. the tapered ones might just sit abit deeper than desired
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Back online after a weekend off the grid.... so are the parts in the post linked above heavier duty than stock? Are these from 3/4 ton applications? I wouldn't mind switching to Chevy 1ton stuff, but I don't want to end up with too much of a Frankenstein situation, so sticking with Ford stuff will probably be the easiest.

For the sleeves, is it as easy as drilling a 7/8" hole? How difficult is it to drill the knuckles? Is reaming it out better/easier, or is it all the same in the end?
 

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Reaming just gets you a very tight hole tolerance (within a thousandth or two of an inch); you won't get that with a twist drill bit. In reality, you are unlikely to achieve a reamer's capable tolerance using a hand drill. Best bet would be to take the knuckle off the truck and have a machine shop chuck it up and ream it out. I personally would probably go zero to 0.001" interference relative to the bushing OD. You'll have to shrink it in there (especially at 0.001"), but it won't go anywhere, and would address the concerns above about slop relative to the knuckle. This is where the tapered sleeve offers some benefit, but you have to know how deep to ream the taper. Fitting the sleeve by pulling the tapered reamer out of the knuckle introduces the risk of restarting the reaming operation in a slightly different spot and introducing looseness, especially on a hand drill.

Looks like the parts mentioned are for 1 ton applications. I'll likely do a tie rod flip using heavy duty components when I install the lift.
 

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the link that repillikus linked says its for standard Ford tie rod ends, not the 'Chevy 1-ton' ends. the sleeves i linked are also for standerd Ford tie rod ends. either will work

the reason i perfer the tapered sleeves is there is less chance of slop as long as you ream the hole straight and evenly. the taper will keep the tie rod tight the more the nut is tighened. it can still be messed up but less likely

when you use a straight 7/8" (0.875") drill bit, there is a good chance that the actual hole diameter will slightly larger than desired. say if it came out to be actually 0.879" diameter hole with 4 thousands of an inch of slop, there is not much you can do to fix that. while its not a deal breaker, it is still jsut abit of slop that can cause an issue

either style will work in the end. but having it done properly is key. either way can be messed up

dont know what your chances are gonig to be to be able to actually get it to be a interference fit like packagerjr said. that would be ideal but idk if most machine shops will actually have that capability to be a thousandth of an inch tighter than a standard size
 

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ate lug
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Yeah thats the reason i prefer the tapered inserts as well, altho the Sky inserts fit my knuckles very well after drilling out with a drill bit. I did coat them in red loctite to help keep them from moving in the hole. No issues yet, and theyre on my DD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know pulling the knuckles would be the best, but it's not going to happen this round, so I'll probably go with the reamer. Having never used one, do you have any tips other than go slow? How long should it take to ream out each hole? A few minutes, or is this a longer process?

How much of an improvement did y'all notice in the steering, and do you think it was from the flip or just the new upgraded parts?
 

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back in the day i bought a really nice reamer designed for higher speeds. it got lost i nthe mail loaning it out to members unfortunately. i obugnt a cheaper replacement that so far has held up good. i go faster than i should but only for short perioes to prevent heat burning it up. i had issues going slow with them biting soo much and getting stuck.

i have done most of mine on vehicle. once you get it started and have a good amount done, pulling it out and putting it back in to check depth almost self centers itself. the key is to make sure you start it as perfect of an angle as you can. a few of mine have ended up a bit angled but still work no problem.

how much of an improvement depends on your steering angle. doesnt quite work on 2" lift. on a 4" lift it will work unless a drop pitman arm is used. 6" lift i find it and a drop pitman arm together help alot but dpeedns how much drop the arm has. basicly want your steering to be about parallel to the axle beams so it prevents bump steer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm sitting at 6" lift with a drop pitman arm, so I'm hoping everything lines up good for me. Looking forward to getting this done... will probably start ordering parts here in the next week or so!
 
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