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So trying to change all the fluids before the new to me bronco goes into daily driver status. It's a 96 with 156k on the clock. Truck has a 351 and seams to have spent its entire life in the Southern California area. The trans was flushed as was the brake system so that's done and working on flushing the cooling system this evening. Still need to change the transfer case as well as both differentials. Oil was done right before I picked her up with Castrol high mileage synthetic blend (rear main seal was replaced when trans was serviced so no visible leaks at present) would someone please recommend what oil for the differentials, transfer case and engine. I wish I had better service records from the PO but it is what it is now. Any recommendations would be helpful.
Thanks!
Brent
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just to be clear I did check the links at the top of the page but they didn't load on my phone
 

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If your gonna change the diff fluid I'd go with synthetic gear oil, I use 75w90 full syn. Lucas but there are plenty brands to choose from

Front Axle Oil (Hypoid Gear Lubricant) "I would recommend 75w90 synthetic gear oil" or any gear oil that meets or exceeds GL-5 specification
Dana 44 - IFS 3.9 pt / 1.7 L
Dana 50 - IFS 4.1 pt / 1.8 L


Rear Axle Oil (Hypoid Gear Lubricant) 5.5 pt / 2.6L "I would recommend 75w90 synthetic gear oil" or any gear oil that meets or exceeds GL-5 specification
Add 4 ounces of friction modifier additive part No. C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent.

Note: Ford w/8.8" ring gear.
8.8 & 10-1/4" has removable cover. Fill 1/4" to 9/16" below fill hole then add friction modifier.


Transfer case fluid
MERCON(R) Automatic Transmission Fluid
Warner 1345 6.5 pt
Warner 1356 and 4406 3.9 qt

Engine oil, determine oil weight according to engine mileage and type of climate your in, if it's fairly warm I'd run 10w30 in your favorite flavor of oil, I run mobile one full syn. But motorcraft syn. Blend is a good oil if you have no particular preference.
 

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Thanks for the quick replies, as for temps it hits the upper 80/90s in the summer and coldest we saw this winter might have been 45 on the coolest night. I've run Mobil one in my Tacoma since the 1000 mile mark and it has been excellent! Just not sure what to run on a 351 with 150+k on it. Ford recommended motorcraft synthetic but what else were they going to recommend? Did pick up a few filters to keep on hand. Also have been using Mobil one in the duffs of my Tacoma with great results but probably can't compare a Toyota with the bronco.
Thanks again for the recommendations
 

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If you like Mobil one then I would not hesitate to run it. I'm running Mobil one high mileage full synthetic 10w30 in my 351. Also run Mobil one full syn. In my mopar. With your temp range I wouldn't hesitate to run 10w30 all year round, if it's going to be any colder the 40 or so I'd run 5w30. Now if it's only going to get below 40 a day or two the 10w30 should be fine, but if there's going to be a month or two where it will drop down to 30's or 20's then I'd run 5w30 for the winter.



You want to keep in mind too that running a oil with high zinc and phosphorus ppm or part per million contents will aid in wear protection especially on your cam, lifters and valve terrain.


Check out this mobile one chart.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx

With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for motor oil with zinc. The current API standard is SM which replaced the previous SL classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle's emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current motor oil.(courtesy of valvoline)


The anti-wear additive simply referred to as zinc by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film. Despite being referred to as zinc, this additive actually contains zinc and phosphorus, with phosphorus performing the anti-wear function in the motor oil with zinc.(courtesy of valvoline)

Many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in SM motor oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new motor oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible. This has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern motor oil is not adequate to protect older engines.
(Courtesy of valvoline)
 

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As long as you run a oil that meets or exceeds API service SM you'll be fine
Motor craft oil is rated at API service SM
Mobile one is API service SN so it meets and exceeds ford requirements
Pretty much every brand oil is going to meet or exceed the factory requirements.

http://www.api.org/~/media/files/ce...iesel/publications/mom_guide_english_2013.pdf


Also choosing a good quality oil filter is just as important as a good quality oil,
I'd stick with wix, motorcraft, Mobil one, k&n, and maybe even stp.
Stay away from purolator, fram, and protec or no name filters
 
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