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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently did the ignition tune up and timing bump and now I have a rough, low idle and it sounds like it wants to die. Also, there seems to be more of a rattling in the engine at the low RPMs.

heres the specs on the ig./timing
-MSD cap,rotor, coil
-Taylor Sipro wires
-Autolite copper core gapped to .055

-timing advanced from 10 to 13*


I pulled codes and got 33- EGR opening not detected. Ive been fighting with this code for a while now, but before the timing bump, the idle wasn't this bad.


So my question is, Is the bad idle caused by the new timing or bad EVP sensor?
 

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Are you sure you unhooked the SPOUT connector before you moved the timing, and if you did, did you remember to hook it back up?
 

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Have you double checked the spark plug wire connections? Sounds like 1 or 2 spark plug wires are not properly connected or you could have some bad parts, new doesn't always mean good.

Check out Steve83's site and check your wire routing, he has a diagram. If all of that checks out ok, then pull 1 wire at a time with the engine running and see if any make NO difference when pulled.
 

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Double check your tune up work then address the code thats being produced and then go from there. The EGR valve can cause idle problems and the truck is telling you its an issue.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Knowing MSD these days, it might be a bad ignition coil. I'd at least check it out via spark color and resistance checks. I'd look more closely at the firing order and wire positions, then perhaps test the ignition coil-to-cap wire by resistance and/or temporary replacement with a known-good wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just backprobed the two wires going into the coil and could NOT get any signs of 12 volts, (with the key on). So in the write-up for this that I followed, it said that this would mean either a bad coil or TFI. WHICH-btw I replaced my TFI as part of the whole ignition bump, because is was giving me problems. So that makes me think that it isnt the TFI... and possibly the coil.

How do I measure the resistance of the coil like SigEpBlue said?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Where were you trying to measure voltage between, just out of curiosity? You won't see +12V between the two primary terminals, since the TFI module turns off the coil-to-ground connection after a few seconds to keep it from burning up.

For measuring coil resistance, just set your DVOM to read resistance (Ω), and probe between the primary terminals (+ and -, where the harness connects) for primary resistance. Then leave one probe on the (+) terminal, then move the other to the coil tower where the spark plug wire connects, for secondary resistance.

MSD's specs for the Blaster coil:
Primary Resistance: 0.44 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 3.1K ohms
 

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Knowing MSD these days, it might be a bad ignition coil. I'd at least check it out via spark color and resistance checks. I'd look more closely at the firing order and wire positions, then perhaps test the ignition coil-to-cap wire by resistance and/or temporary replacement with a known-good wire.
I went through 2 MSD coils before I got one that worked and now they are of a new design.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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They've got an even cheaper version now (Street Blaster?) that's made in China. :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where were you trying to measure voltage between, just out of curiosity? You won't see +12V between the two primary terminals, since the TFI module turns off the coil-to-ground connection after a few seconds to keep it from burning up.

For measuring coil resistance, just set your DVOM to read resistance (Ω), and probe between the primary terminals (+ and -, where the harness connects) for primary resistance. Then leave one probe on the (+) terminal, then move the other to the coil tower where the spark plug wire connects, for secondary resistance.

MSD's specs for the Blaster coil:
Primary Resistance: 0.44 ohms
Secondary Resistance: 3.1K ohms
awesome, thanks for the pointers!


Here is where i was measuring from



This fix is gonna be on the backburner for a bit until i can actually start the truck. Today the key cylendar on the steering collum went bad. I can turn it and it will stay in the "on"(primed and ig. hot) but not turn off or engage the starter motor. So I hot wired her to get home :rockon:goodfinge:toothless where she will sit till i get back from working on a ranch in oregon for a week.

anyways, thanks again for the help.
 
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