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1990 xlt 351 f4te 4" lift 33" BFG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is it necessary for the balancer to be in place when installing the timing cover? I did use two dowel pins and they seemed to line everything up but theres a .01" step down from the timing cover to the block on the oil pan gasket surface.

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1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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6,391 Posts
Maybe I’m reading this wrong but how would you get the timing cover on with the balancer in place? By in place you mean on the crank? Or do you mean set cover in place then slide balance on crank to help align?
I just did this and the dowel pins lined everything up, I think it’s best to get a few bolts started on top then get the oil pan bolts started
 

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I guess you could loosely bolt on the TC, then install damper to be sure it's centered (older blocks did not have dowel pins for the TC) prior to tightening the TC?

Any gap at the bottom should be taken up by the gasket.


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1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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6,391 Posts
but is centering the seal necessary with dowel pins? I skipped this step and need to know if I should tear it apart and for a redo.
I just replaced my tc gasket and crank seal and I don’t know what you mean by centering the seal. By seal do you mean the crank seal, the gasket or the rubber seal on the bottom of the TC?The dowel pins will keep the gasket in place.Set the cover on the dowel pins, start all the bolts and torque them down to 18 lbs… done
 

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No, if you have dowel pins to locate you are good.
When I built my hot rod motor I used a 1970 302 block. No dowel pin provision. When I mounted my TC I got down Infront and did my best to center the crank snout in the hole visually. Not much wiggle room with all the TC bolts anyway, but without dowels enough to have the crank doing ovals in the seal. Small ones, but enough to leak. I must have done ok as it's 7000 miles and 17 months later leak free from there.

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