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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have my timing set at 10 BTC like it says. Put it in gear and it has no balls and wants to stall when you hit it to pull out on to the street to accelerate. But it will smooth out once it hits exactly 2k RPM. why is that? There was a thread I read about the balencer shifting, and the timing marks not being correct, but there was no mention of how to time it then. Will the motor sound a certain way when its right on the money at idle? Please help.

85 351w (+.40) edelbrock carb 1406 and matching performer RPM intake.
 

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If the balancer has spun you'll have to take out cylinder #1 sparkplug and use a straw to find TDC. That will tell you if and how far the balancer has spun. If it has spun I suggest you replace it quick smart before it takes something more expensive out.

You did remove the SPOUT will setting and checking the timing didn't you?
 

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I must be an old guy, but this is what we used to do when timing marks didn't line up, I've run across cars where a pully has been changed (or something) by Joe McGee and is not the stock part, does not read correctly. Anyway, pull the spout, loosen the distributor lock bolt - mark the position with a punch, a marker, spray paint, whatever - this is so you can put it back if not satisfied. CAREFULLY do this: Start the engine, rev it up to 2K and hold it there (I've seen some mechanics rev it higher), gradually turn the distributor clockwise (advancing) until you can feel the engine fighting itself, then turn it back until it smooths out. Tighten the bolt and try it. IF it is pinging and running bad, turn it back a little - counterclockwise. (hope I have the direction correct)

One further note: I talked to an EXPERT once about timing, he was an engineer and knew a lot. He says: set your timing to point of it almost "pinging" on the grade of gas you use (he suggested always use premium), he says at that point your timing is set to it's most efficiency. This is called "TIMING BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS". Good Luck
 

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Also called powertiming!

We used to brace a vehicle against something solid like a lamp post and load it up in gear with the brakes on, then advance the timing until you heard pinging....then back it off a hair.

I imagine you could do the same with the spout out.

Jeff
 

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Ragged_ol_86 said:
85 351w (+.40) edelbrock carb 1406 and matching performer RPM intake.


DOES ANYONE READ THESE POSTS? come on quit giving out stupid info for his engine. If you can find a spout connector on a 351w in 85 which has a carb on it then please show me.

verify TDC with #1 plug out. also at the same time pop your dizzy cap off and see where your rotor is pointed at.


And as said before if your balancer has slipped, replace it. Mine slipped on my 400 and I went to just do a once over and found out it was working on chewing a hole in my timing cover.
 

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Josh Doesnt have a spout connector and it is a brand new timing cahin so it better not be stretched.
 

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I would make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 when at TDC, also check to see that you centrifugal thingy in the dizzy, is working freely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heres the funny part. I had the pointer on tdc and the piston was at tdc. I checked this before i put this new motor in. and all lined up ok. So yesterday i said **** it i put the light on it and it was reading at 10*BTC. Ok right? well I had the idle at 500 r's and started turinig the dizzy and checking with timing light. then the truck started to lope (in a musclecar kinda good way) so i said ok. I tightened up the dizzy and test drove. Bingo its a tad off but it runs great. Thanks to all who helped. I just need gears now so its not such a toilet.
 
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