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Discussion Starter #1
ok, went to set timing on the beast, (new motor) and i don't see how i can get a timing light into that damn hole because of the alternator bracket. so how the hell do i set it?:whiteflag please help
 

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Practicing Infidel
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badpony93 said:
ok, went to set timing on the beast, (new motor) and i don't see how i can get a timing light into that damn hole because of the alternator bracket. so how the hell do i set it?:whiteflag please help
Forget the little round hole and revert to the tired and true method;

Aim for the indicator painted yeller in this pic;



Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so if it should be 10* btdc what should i set it for aiming for that mark?
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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You do set it using the edge of that pointer. I don't know what that stupid circle is for but it ain't for setting the timing. You should just be shooting straight down at the balancer and line the timing you want up with the edge of the pointer.
 

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RLKBOB said:
You do set it using the edge of that pointer. I don't know what that stupid circle is for but it ain't for setting the timing. You should just be shooting straight down at the balancer and line the timing you want up with the edge of the pointer.
I think that circle is for some fancy-dew dealer scope pick up point. BTW go for 12 degrees at least. I run 13.5 on 87 , but then again I have an MSD coil, .055 plug gaps and really good Taylor wires.

Sixlitre
 

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Malcolm, got 8227, 9mm wires,aint bumped the gap and timing yet, still, seat of the pants sees an improvement
 

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GHOSTRIDER said:
Malcolm, got 8227, 9mm wires,aint bumped the gap and timing yet, still, seat of the pants sees an improvement
GhostRider !

Wait til' ya get them gaps opened up and the timing bumped.

Double whammy !

Sixlitre
 

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ya you can set the timing from pretty close to the radiator, just aim at that pointer, thats what its for. I found out even with a brand new balancer (it wasnt yellow though:shocked ) I still had to get some white spray paint on a screwdriver and crawl under there and mark 13 (what engine builder told me to run)
 

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81Bronk36 said:
ya you can set the timing from pretty close to the radiator, just aim at that pointer, thats what its for. I found out even with a brand new balancer (it wasnt yellow though:shocked ) I still had to get some white spray paint on a screwdriver and crawl under there and mark 13 (what engine builder told me to run)
Yellow sure makes it easy to make out alright

I clean my balancer off a very, very stupid, dangerous way. I crawl under with sandpaper wrapped around a prybar and held on with an elastic band.

Then I hold the paper to the balancer with the engine idling. Good way to lose an eye or a lefticle, but I've been lucky to date and it cleans the balancer perfectly in seconds.

While it's still running I usually give it a shot of black (or blue) spray paint and it dries in seconds.

After that I shut it off and whip out the yellow tire marker and go to town using my kindergarten colouring skills on the marks on the balancer, from underneath.

DO NOT DO this method unless you're stupid like me or just WANT to get hurt.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok cool the circle is there to f- with ya. good. it's a factory cap and rotor. not from the factory but replacements, with ford racing wires. will 10* be good?
 

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badpony93 said:
ok cool the circle is there to f- with ya. good. it's a factory cap and rotor. not from the factory but replacements, with ford racing wires. will 10* be good?
10 is where it should-outta-be

If'n you buys the MSD coil to go with all that, make sure you gap your plugs out to .055 and buy Motorcraft or the cheapest Autolites you can find, as that's what SBFs run well on.

There will be a noticeable improvement in both throttle response and mileage if you bump the ignition with the rest of those improvements, in my experience.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok set it at 10*btdc. it was at 9* atdc:shocked no wonder it was running like shit. no it's throwing code 311 and 332. therm air system not working bank 1 and egr valve not opening. im guessing since all the damn nylon lines broke when the motor came out and i used rubber ones, that somewhere lines are routed wrong.
 

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badpony93 said:
im guessing since all the damn nylon lines broke when the motor came out and i used rubber ones, that somewhere lines are routed wrong.
Or collapsing under vacuum conditions

9 or 10 degrees shouldn't make an earth shattering difference. Now 12 or 13.5, THAT might.

Sixlitre
 

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Sixlitre said:
I think that circle is for some fancy-dew dealer scope pick up point. BTW go for 12 degrees at least. I run 13.5 on 87 , but then again I have an MSD coil, .055 plug gaps and really good Taylor wires.

Sixlitre
[slightly off topic]

Sixlitre,

I remember reading about the improvements you have made in many other threads, but I was specifically wondering if the MSD coil/wires/.055 gapped plugs was done before of after your 3G swap? I'm wondering if these mods would be an improvement with my stock 95amp 3G? I'm still looking for a 130amp 3G side mount, but haven't had much luck at my local jy.

[/slightly off topic]
 

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Steve83 said:
Put on your reading glasses, Six! :twak


:lolup That's 19° wrong!

D' oh !!!!!!!! :duh

Thanks

I didn't see that Steve. Yes I guess 19 degrees would make a heck of a difference !

Unixdude

I can't remember which came first, but do not let the 95 amp alternator stop you from doing this. There's no way a 95 amp unit won't give an MSD coil what it needs.

Put the plugs, wires and coil on and while you're waiting for a 130 amp alt to show up, you'll pay for it in gas savings.

Sixlitre
 
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