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@miesk5
@cobrajoe
@BigBlue 94
@BikerPepe`

Just to tag a few people so that this thread gets some views.

Not sure this is the right section - so mods feel free to move it.

That being said - I've been a contributing member on tons of automotive forums over the years. Several of those forums had a sticky thread (we might have one here and I missed it?) where everyone shared various TIPS / TRICKS for just about anything to do with wrenching on our vehicles.

This idea popped in my head after an acquaintance was in my shop while I was wrenching and he saw me use a trick I've used FOREVER to get a tight bolt loose (in tight quarters) and he is older than me and had never seen what I thought was a common trick......

So here goes a few examples - I'm sure a bunch of folks here have things they could contribute.


1. Got a tough bolt / nut to deal with? Can't get a breaker bar in there? Too tight for an impact (or don't have one etc). Use two wrenches. Put the box end of a combination wrench on the bolt in question. Use the box end of another wrench and 'hook' it onto the open end of the first wrench and you get instant leverage multiplication. Here's a picture I googled up to show what I mean:

154774


This is VERY effective.

2. Masking threaded holes / etc for painting

Masking tape works great for most things. But say you're painting an intake manifold and you don't want to get paint in all the threaded ports? Just take some aluminum foil - tear off an appropriate size piece and roll it / wad it up to fill the threaded hole. It's cheap, it's easy to work with and it takes seconds.

See the picture below:

154775


3. Need to get more leverage on a ratchet - but either you can't fit your breaker bar in there or you don't have one handy? Simply take a piece of metal pipe or even PVC pipe and slip it over the ratchet handle.


4. Got a hard to reach fastener so you need to use a swivel / u-joint for your ratchet? Tired of it flopping around when trying to get it on the fastener? Wrap the swivel / u-joint with some electrical tape.

Just a few examples that came to mind. Does anyone else think this might be a useful thread?
 

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Yo ctandcm
Good stuff!
I used some of the tips when at sea when in a compartment below deck where a repair was needed, but proper tool was stored four decks above and 75 frames aft.

How about moving this as a Sticky to Fabrication, Tools, Equipment section? Not many Stickies there as compared to this Noobie with a bloated amount of stickies that should be trimmed.
Thanks!
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yo ctandcm
Good stuff!
I used some of the tips when at sea when in a compartment below deck where a repair was needed, but proper tool was stored four decks above and 75 frames aft.

How about moving this as a Sticky to Fabrication, Tools, Equipment section? Not many Stickies there as compared to this Noobie with a bloated amount of stickies that should be trimmed.
Thanks!
Al
Works for me - move it wherever you think is best.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Fine by me...

I use the "cheater" wrench all the time in the JY. But, I slip the box end of the bigger wrench over the box end of the correct sized wrench. Use the box end on the fastener. I carry a 1n7/16 wrench as my cheater usually. With some penetrating oil, I have yet to see a nut I couldn't loosen. It equates to about 3 feet of leverage. It gets bolts loose that my 1200 ft/lb impact wont even budge. It has worked on the suspension fasteners of a 1977 farm truck.

Some tool warranties wont cover tools used like this.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Good stuff. Some folks will greatly benefit.
I've used every one suggested, at one point or another... with some variations but that's kinda the point.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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Here is a simple trick to assist when your Phillips screw driver bit continues to slip out of a worn Phillips screw head.
Moisten the bit slightly and dip it in any type of powdered cleanser, like Comet or Ajax. The grit in the cleanser adds extra friction, or "bite" to the flukes of the bit and helps keep it from slipping out of the screw head.


Another trick for Phillips screws that are stuck is to use a light weight impact gun. I have a Dewalt 1/4" drive impact driver and it seems to help when I have stuck screws and the screw driver doesnt want to stay in the bit while I apply torque.
 

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^ Or just whack the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. That usually digs it into the phillips head better, especially if it's chewed up, and doubles as an impact tool to break it free.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Most screwdrivers have some sort of flats on them for using a wrench. Put all the body weight you can on the screwdriver, and use a wrench to turn it.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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Here is a nice little tip.....

I am sure everyone has used caulk in a caulking gun and had some left over.
We have all used the screw in the end of the applicator tip to try and seal out the air so the product in the applicator tube doesn't dry out. But we all know that never works. Come back in two months and the applicator tube is clogged. I have even used duct tape in an attempt to seal up the end but that didn't work either.

I had a partially used tube of caulk about 4 months ago that I tested a new trick on to see if it would save the product. What I did was to take a plastic communion cup which I commonly use to mix up paint or epoxy and filled it up with axle grease. I then took the cup of axle grease and put it over the end of the caulk tube applicator like a lid or cap. My thoughts were the cup full of grease would seal out 100% of air getting to the tube. When you take the cup off the end you just squeeze out a little of the product and wipe the end and you are ready to go again.

I put the cup of grease on the tube and I came back today to check it and after 4 months and it was not clogged at all. The test was successful and now I have a great new way to save my caulk products.

Just thought I would share this with everyone :)

155398


155399
 

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Spark plug socket lost its rubber or you got a hard to reach plug hole, put a lengthy of hose that’s snug over the porcelain part and screw it in by hand with that then torque as usual

Speaking of torque wrenches remember set it to zero when not in use or you wear it out early and for engine work please get it calibrated every year or two. I actually have two and test them against each other on my lug nuts every year, if ones off by 2 degrees they both get re calibrated.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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snip

I put the cup of grease on the tube and I came back today to check it and after 4 months and it was not clogged at all. The test was successful and now I have a great new way to save my caulk products.
I have used a similar trick with clipped off old spark plug wire caps over tubes with damaged lids, or exposed, air curing products and had great luck with 'em. Also nice to put 'em to good use, rather than just toss 'em out.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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Here is a tip to cleaning out female ends of electrical connectors. The male ends are fairly easy to clean up so they make better electrical connection by scuffing them with fine sandpaper.

To clean the insides of the female connectors I use a small bristle brush used for cleaning paint sprayers. The nylon bristles are not aggressive enough to clean corrosion so what I do is take the brush and dip it in a paste I have made of water and comet cleanser. The cleanser is a mild abrasive and will cut most corrosion. Obviously after you clean the connector you need to flush it out with brake cleaner or contact cleaner. Once done reapply some dielectric grease to keep it sealed.


155525


155526
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Have you tried to roll up a small piece of sandpaper, slip it inside and spin it around, up/down a few times?
Has worked for me many times. Seems a little less clean-up after too.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Here is a nice little tip.....

I am sure everyone has used caulk in a caulking gun and had some left over.
We have all used the screw in the end of the applicator tip to try and seal out the air so the product in the applicator tube doesn't dry out. But we all know that never works. Come back in two months and the applicator tube is clogged. I have even used duct tape in an attempt to seal up the end but that didn't work either.

I had a partially used tube of caulk about 4 months ago that I tested a new trick on to see if it would save the product. What I did was to take a plastic communion cup which I commonly use to mix up paint or epoxy and filled it up with axle grease. I then took the cup of axle grease and put it over the end of the caulk tube applicator like a lid or cap. My thoughts were the cup full of grease would seal out 100% of air getting to the tube. When you take the cup off the end you just squeeze out a little of the product and wipe the end and you are ready to go again.

I put the cup of grease on the tube and I came back today to check it and after 4 months and it was not clogged at all. The test was successful and now I have a great new way to save my caulk products.

Just thought I would share this with everyone :)

View attachment 155398

View attachment 155399
The little wingnut connectors used in home electric wiring work well too.
 

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One thing I really like doing is to put a strong magnet near the bit on your drill press, either on the table or on your working piece. Snags most of the cuttings and makes clean up easy.
 

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Now THAT"s one of the most useful ones I've never heard but seems incredibly obvious when you hear it. Thanks.
 
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