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1990 Eddie Bauer 5.8
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up everyone, I have have stupid, A B Normal question about tire chains.

I've recently been daily driving a 2019 Ranger FX4 with 265/65r17 oem tires. Per Hankook, this is a 30.7" diameter 10.4" section width tire. According to Toyo the 31s on my bronco are 30.75" with a 10.5" section width. The actual diameter is 30" on the dot for both sets of tires and 8.25" tread width in the 31s, 8" on the 265s.

My question is, could I run the same chains on both sets of tires? I'm ordering chains (that I probably won't need) for a couple trips this year to Tahoe and Washington/Idaho. I'd rather have chains for the Bronco since I know it's not going anywhere and would be a better investment long term, but I'm taking the ranger on most if not all of these trips. Some of the same part numbers come up when I look up cables for these tires but not when I look up chains.

Is this doable? Am I overthinking this? I would imagine overall dimensions matter not really wheel dimensions. I would also imagine manufacture sizing has more discrepancy than these two tires.

Thanks in advance for your input everyone, I'd ask this on my Ranger forum as well but those guys are kind of useless compared to here.
 

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1993 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8, 352 V8
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I'm no tire expert, however, make sure your tire width, height, etc is the same, and I'd lean toward yes, that is doable. They have tire grips out now that look like the clip-ons for the bottom of boots, maybe check those out as well.


I'm unsure how reliable these are, as they are much cheaper. Check out the reviews maybe?
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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I don't see why they wouldn't work. Are the wheels on your Bronco 15" like factory? That would be the only point that might come up in the design of the Tire Chains 15" vs 17" rims. Everything else you mentioned are pretty much the same dimensions for both sets of Tires.
 

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1990 Eddie Bauer 5.8
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't see why they wouldn't work. Are the wheels on your Bronco 15" like factory? That would be the only point that might come up in the design of the Tire Chains 15" vs 17" rims. Everything else you mentioned are pretty much the same dimensions for both sets of Tires.
My bronco is still on 15" rims. I thought about this, although looking at different tire chain designs it seems like some tensioners stay in the sidewall area while others make it into the rim, especially chains for lower profile tires on cars.
 

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1990 Eddie Bauer 5.8
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm no tire expert, however, make sure your tire width, height, etc is the same, and I'd lean toward yes, that is doable. They have tire grips out now that look like the clip-ons for the bottom of boots, maybe check those out as well.


I'm unsure how reliable these are, as they are much cheaper. Check out the reviews maybe?
Thanks for the info, I've seen those clip on traction devices before, however I think I'd rather stick with Chains, I just feel like they would hold up better over time with maintenance.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Good chains dont hook to the wheel at all so only tire diameter and width matter. Not tread width, but case or section width (where the 10.50 comes from)

Chains i got with my bronco for 36x13s also fit the new 37x12.50s.
 

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I've used chains a good few times through the years, and they suck. There is a product called Autosock (check Amazon) which are a little more money, but look way easier to put on when you need them, and are DOT approved. No direct experience but watched a video about them, and will likely buy for emergencies
 

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Rim size doesn't matter - it is overall wheel/tire size.
That should work. I used the same set on two slightly different tire sizes. They are manufactured to fit a range so they can be snuggled to fit. Just make sure you get the chains tight to the tire so they don't slap. Use an extra bungee if you need to.

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Thanks for the info everybody, I feel confident buying one set.
Buy 2 sets… you need one for the front and one for the rear… most of the passes here in the PNW require chains. And per ODOT and WDOT a 4wheel drive us to have all 4 tires chained… and a es you can run the same sets of chains on both rigs…
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Buy 2 sets… you need one for the front and one for the rear… most of the passes here in the PNW require chains. And per ODOT and WDOT a 4wheel drive us to have all 4 tires chained… and a es you can run the same sets of chains on both rigs…
Buy 2 sets… you need one for the front and one for the rear… most of the passes here in the PNW require chains. And per ODOT and WDOT a 4wheel drive us to have all 4 tires chained… and a es you can run the same sets of chains on both rigs…
Sorry, I meant one set as in on part# but that does sound like a good idea to run all 4 tires having the same traction.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Yup 4 chains total and don’t cheap out on the bungee tighteners, if you can get them, get the big rubber rings that truck drivers use, we used them on our garbage trucks. I bought a couple sets from our tire company fir my personal rigs, we kept a dodge 4X pickup chained up in winter in the driveway just for snow days when we lived in Newberg up on top of the hill.
 

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FYI:
Chains required in WA
Traction and chain requirements
Traction tires advised

Traction tires advised - Traction tires are not required but are recommended. Oversize loads prohibited. Oversize vehicles may be restricted from roadways during severe weather conditions.
Traction tires required

Traction tires required - Passenger vehicles must use approved traction tires. Chains are required on all vehicles over 10,000 gross vehicle weight (GVW), and all vehicles and loads over 10,000 pounds gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), including large passenger trucks and SUVs.
Tire chains required

Tire chains required - Vehicles must install chains to continue traveling on the roadway. 4WD/AWD vehicles do not need to install chains at this point, but still must carry a set inside their vehicle in case conditions worsen.* See WAC 204-24-050
*Vehicles over 10,000 GVW/GVWR must install chains when "chains required" is posted, even if they have 4WD/AWD. This law is based on vehicle weight, not type of vehicle.
Chains required on ALL vehicles, even 4WD/AWD

Chains required on ALL vehicles, even 4WD/AWD. This is the last step before a pass is closed

cut and paste from:

Violators face a $500 fine
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Where do tire studs fit into this?

@BikerPepe` runs em in the winter in ne WA

My chains are 100% metal, down to the tensioners. Lateral tread portions are twisted link chain. Each pair weighs probably 80 pounds. I store em in a pair of those double ended plastic military "ammo" cans.
 
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per the link from WA DOT
Studded tires do not satisfy state chain requirements. If chains are required on your vehicle, you'll have to install them even on studded tires.
Years ago I used to run studded tires. That was when I lived in the same geographical region as @BikerPepe` . I had a steep and long driveway with several curves that turned into a sheet of ice with 6 feet of snow on either side. Butt puckering driving down this and I don't scare easily. All you could do is pick a line, say a prayer and try to keep the vehicle pointing down hill because there was zero control. With out studs the Bronco would have been doing 360s all the way down or would have picked up so much speed while sliding that the 6' berms would have been launching ramps.
Studs worked good for these type of extreme situations and I would use them again if faced with roadways that ice over for miles and miles.

I have found that siped all terrains seem to handle all but the super slick icy conditions.
Studs have the hassle of a limited window of usage, annoying noise and the increased wear of the driving surface.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I've lived up here in E.WA & N.ID for most of my life, off and on. I swear by studded tires. Most city folks don't really need 'em but us rural folks sure do. I'm setup to swap my seasonal wheels and tires myself, so I don't have to deal with the tire store rush and I can put off installing them until the roads are really covered and safe for stud use. They are tough on the roads and I consider it a responsibility to be able to take care of it myself and minimize road damage that we all have to pay to repair.

I don't think I've ever had to worry about chains being needed and I've traveled around through some of our worst weather. It is possible but rare that I can't get over a pass with just studs and 4x. That said... the passes between west coast and central WA do get shut down every now and then. N. Idaho passes are generally not a problem either, with great road maintenance but these days... with workers shortages and all these other BS problems, it's anybody's guess. That said... we are overdue for a serious winter but this one doesn't look to be it, from the long term forecast. Mostly warm and wet in the PNW this year, with a few spurts of real cold snows to deal with. Probably means more ice on the roads than deep snows.

I have a set of chains I picked up in a yard sale a few years back but I've never even tried to mount them. I really don't like chains. I've seen too many break loose and mess up fenders and fender wells but probably crappy old chains and/or user errors. My biggest advice is to make sure you have solid locks and use bungies to keep everything tight so it can't work itself loose over time.

Like everyone has already well advised... since chains are generally made to fit a range and your tires sizes are nearly identical, I don't foresee any issues swapping them between the two you mentioned.
 

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@BikerPepe` Have you looked into the WA studded tire requirements lately? I just read an article where Oregon Department of Transportation is advising against the use of studs, and in several years studded tires won’t be legal on Oregon roadways… curious to know if Washington will be the same…

I haven’t run studs in almost 20 years… however I do carry chains and have had to put them on two times in the past three years. When OSP says I need them to get down “Cabbage”, I kind of pay attention.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I know they've tried to pass legislation to ban studs in the past, many times... 2019 being the last I know of. There doesn't appear to be anything current but it's not surprising as it gets trounced every time the greenies try to put it out there. Far too many rural citizens that won't stand for it. The difference they make in specific conditions we experience too often in the mountains and valleys is undeniable. If only we had that kind of motivation to deal with our ass-backwards political state.

That said... the road damage is real and that's why, despite them being legal on November 1st, I put off installing ours as long as I possibly can without danger. I wish more would that can but it is what it is.

I would like to have a new set of quality chains to throw in the back of my rig but they're not cheap and I rarely go over the passes, even though I have gone down to Portland/Vancouver through the Columbia River gorge and through the flatlands of South Central WA more times than I can count, even driving through the night in near blizzard and white-outs while everyone else is pulled off on the side of the road. Growing up in these conditions, I'm probably over-confident but just shy of crazy.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I think we can run studs November thru April here. I would imagine it being more prevalent out in the western half of KS where they get whiteout blizzards. A few times a year I-70 gets shut down. The winds out there will knock a semi truck over easily too. Most of our winter weather here is ice, sometimes followed by snow. Thats like covering a bowling alley in an oil slick!
 
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