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I own a '90 Full Size Bronco with a 3" body lift, on 33's, my problem is whenever I turn a sharp corner or try to pull out of a tight parking space the tires will rub on the radius arms which temporarily creates a shaking until it gets straightened out....
I was thinking of putting a 3" suspension lift on it hoping it would eliminate the rubbing...

Any suggestions?!
 

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I dont think a suspension lift wouldn't have any affect on tires rubbing the radius arms (unless you got extended arms). I have extended arms w/6"s and the tires rub the arms. You'd need wheels with different backspacing or something like wheel spacers to move the wheels outward.
 

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Dont turn so sharp... duh... J/K

Does it do it on both sides? Has it always done it or did it just start? How wide are the tires and rims? What is the backspacing on the rims?

Generally, a 33 will not rub on the R/As unless the backspacing is not sufficient.... I would not go with wheel spacers personally....
 

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green ones make me horny
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they all rub at full lock. mine do anyways.
 
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Dont turn so sharp... duh...
:stupid

Turn your wheel locks out if you can't handle turning the wheel back a hair when you feel them rubbing.
 

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I have a 4" susp lift on my 88 f150 without the extended radius arms and 33/10.5/15" tires and mine rub.. just gotta learn to not turn soo sharp.. it took me a while to get used to it!!
 

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i've got 2.5" suspension, with 33x 12.50's on stock rims, I dont think my tires rub on the Radius Arms, but they definately rub on the sway bay about 1/8 turn from full lock. I just learned not to cut the wheel that far, problem kindad solved? :thumbup
 

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Stock 88 with 33's, no rubbing at full lock.

It really has to do with the rims you have.
 

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I dont think a suspension lift wouldn't have any affect on tires rubbing the radius arms (unless you got extended arms). I have extended arms w/6"s and the tires rub the arms. You'd need wheels with different backspacing or something like wheel spacers to move the wheels outward.

DO NOT use wheel spacers. They put tons more stress on your ball joints and can present alot of problems.
 

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i have an 86 with 4in lift on 33x12.50x15 super swamper ssr's and mine dont rub a single bit on anything.neither set of wheels did either. i have the full rancho kit on mine, it even looks like i could fit 35s and still not rub
 

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I don't know whats wrong with your trucks, I run 53x22.5x40 boggers with 15" backspacing and I don't rub at all on my stock suspension, but a little on my headers.


Mine rub also.I just try not to turn so hard.Its not worth fixing.Mine is almost stock so i dont know why it rubs.:toothless
:slap

:rofl:
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Any suggestions?!
Turn out your steering stops.


They are on the back side of the knuckle. You will see them clearly when you look (or the threaded holes where they should be)

You can see my originals sticking out at the very bottom center of this pic.

Clicky for full size



I opted to replace mine with slightly longer grade 8 bolts and a set of nuts to use as jamb nuts.

I jacked up the front, removed each and replaced with the bolts/nuts and ran them all the way in. Then I swung the steering to make sure I could still turn it far enough that the tires hit the arms .
(making sure then new bolts/nuts weren't to long)

The I just slowly turned them out a few turns until I had created 1/2" between the tire and the arm, then locked them in place with the jamb nut.

Be sure to spin the tire when measuring, tires are never perfect and mud tires use staggered tread blocks.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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I wanted to add a little info on this thread. I wanted to fix my steering stops so my 35" tires wouldn't rub on the radius arms.

I found out where the stops are located but when I checked my truck, there weren't any bolts installed.

Over the last 23 years dirt dobbers and off-roading have plugged up the holes where the bolts were supposed to be.

I cleaned out the threads with a wire brush in a drill, but the threads were still too dirty to thread in a bolt.

I cleaned out the threads with a 5/16 - 18 tap. The tap went in without very much force. I took a guess on the thread size and seems I got it right on the first try.

I used anti-seize compound when I put in the new bolt. There wasn't enough room for a jamb nut so I used two washers as spacers instead.

The last two photos show the wheel at steering lock and the amount of clearance between the radius arm and tire.
 

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DO NOT use wheel spacers. They put tons more stress on your ball joints and can present alot of problems.
Why? Please explain what difference there is in the effect on suspension geometry between a well installed spacer, and installing wheels with the same reduction in backspacing?
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Why? Please explain what difference there is in the effect on suspension geometry between a well installed spacer, and installing wheels with the same reduction in backspacing?
Umm; the dude hasn't posted in almost 11 years...
 
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