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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I’m new to the forum as well as broncos wheeling and just about all of it. I sold my truck a few days ago to get something I could take Offroad. I have always thought broncos were awesome ever since I was little. I finally found one in decent looking shape. That is in my price range. I am going to link the ad in another post so you all can view the pictures.
he told me he would consider 6,000 no less than 5,000. The one thing that keeps me from buying is he says the button or cable that engages the 4x4 stopped working. What do you guys think should I go for it and hope it’s just the button or cable. Or do you think it’s a bigger issue that’s going to cost me. I don’t want a vehicle that’s going to need a fortune put into it to make it useable off road. Let me know what you all think any tips or advice is welcome. If all goes as planned I will be going to look at it this upcoming Sunday after that they will be moving out of state and taking it with them if it doesn’t sell. thanks ahead of time.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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2,953 Posts
Welcome! Looks pretty nice. I’d think 5-6k might be ok if he has receipts and proof to his claims to the new engine and such. The transfer case shifter shouldn’t be a deal breaker - that can be fixed - probably a bad motor. You could also convert it to manual floor shift as well if that interested you.

There is an extensive list of things to look for when buying an older used vehicle (like a sweet Bronco!) and @miesk5 might chime in and post it here. Good luck!
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the speedy reply. My truck was a 2003 Ford F-150 two wheel drive so I don’t have any knowledge base for how four wheel drive systems work. Are there any advantages to manual floor shifter vs the original system? (I assume you are just talking about shifting between 2x4 vs 4x4 and not actual gear shifting?). I’ll let a few more people weight in before I start asking more questions about parts that would be needed to fix the Tcase shifter.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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2,953 Posts
Well, Broncos have either a button electronic shifter on the dash (like that one you’re looking at) or a t-case shifter on the floor. A floor shifter is simple and mechanical (vs electronic) - you physically shift it into 4x4 with your hand. The button system is a switch that activates a motor that shifts the t-case - more prone to failure due to a bad motor, frayed wire, bad button, etc. A common upgrade also is a swap to manual lockouts on the hubs from auto-lockouts that commonly fail. Do some searching on the forum...lots of good info on t-case and hubs here.
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
Joined
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If I get this one I will probably leave it electronic at least for now. Seems more logical at the moment to me than converting it right off the bat. I will definitely look into the hubs.
 

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Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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1,887 Posts
She's pretty... Looks solid but, Id like to know how many miles are on the tranny. My 90 needed hers rebuilt at about 120k. One thing u said tho,
. I don’t want a vehicle that’s going to need a fortune put into it to make it useable off road
If maintenance expense is a concern, u might want to think of something that isn't 30 years old... These rigs require regular maintenance, upkeep, replacing old wire, hoses, tubing and parts that can be expensive and hard to find... Thankfully there's already a new motor (if he has the documents to prove it) but that's only 1 small part of a much bigger undertaking...
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,136 Posts
Didn’t look at the add myself but one thing I’d recommend..... have a mechanic inspection before you purchase it!
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
She's pretty... Looks solid but, Id like to know how many miles are on the tranny. My 90 needed hers rebuilt at about 120k. One thing u said tho,

If maintenance expense is a concern, u might want to think of something that isn't 30 years old... These rigs require regular maintenance, upkeep, replacing old wire, hoses, tubing and parts that can be expensive and hard to find... Thankfully there's already a new motor (if he has the documents to prove it) but that's only 1 small part of a much bigger undertaking...
I understand maintenance cost are greater for older vehicles and those aren’t that big a worry. My biggest worry is that I would buy it and then immediately have to replace or fix a ton of stuff right off the bat. As in I don’t want to spend $12,000 instead of $6,000 on my initial investment.
I am planning to use it to go off-roading whenever I get the chance so I expect that it will definitely need more drivetrain work than a road warrior. But I am wanting something solid to start with so I don’t get overloaded with wrenching. I am planning to get a mechanic to look it over. But that depends on wether or not I can find one available this Sunday. After Sunday it will be gone with the wind.🙂 I will ask them how many miles are on the body and transmission and get back to y’all
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I forgot an important question. Is there a way to test the 4x4 if the switch or motor don’t work? Or better yet how would I diagnose that one of these as the issue vs a transmission problem?
 

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973 Posts
Most of us have a daily driver and have a long lasting love affair with our Broncos. I actually daily drive my 1996 and I always have a slight touch of anxiety doing so. Just yesterday I come to stoplight where 98% of the traffic turns right, but I was going straight into a city park. This young teenage girl decides to turn left on yellow and pull right in front of me. I had to lock up the Bronco to avoid smashing into her drivers side door. People are idiots... and most drive like they have no idea what they are doing. Just saying if you bought that Bronco today and had the same thing happen to you on the way home you are going to have to fight to get your purchase price. Most insurance companies are going to try and low the hell out of you, and even if they pay you your purchase price they will salvage title your ride and kill the future value.

Bronco's or just Fords in general are pretty easy to work on. Most of your trouble shooting can be found on this site with either research or the helpful assistance of members. My advice is that if your looking for a reliable daily driver $6,000 can get you a ton of options. If as stated early that you truly have secretly been in love with Broncos for years....hell yes pull the trigger. Rust would be the only deal breaker... every thing is pull and replace... as needed. Yes the transmission will eventually go... don't worry too much about it....Just enjoy the Bronco life.
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
Joined
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Most of us have a daily driver and have a long lasting love affair with our Broncos. I actually daily drive my 1996 and I always have a slight touch of anxiety doing so. Just yesterday I come to stoplight where 98% of the traffic turns right, but I was going straight into a city park. This young teenage girl decides to turn left on yellow and pull right in front of me. I had to lock up the Bronco to avoid smashing into her drivers side door. People are idiots... and most drive like they have no idea what they are doing. Just saying if you bought that Bronco today and had the same thing happen to you on the way home you are going to have to fight to get your purchase price. Most insurance companies are going to try and low the hell out of you, and even if they pay you your purchase price they will salvage title your vehicle
As of yet I have been able to avoid ever getting in a wreck or pulled over 😁 and I plan to keep it that way!
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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24,242 Posts
Yo Cboy100,
Welcome!
If the 90 can be driven in two wheel drive, the E4OD auto transmission and Borg Warner 1356 Warner Transfer Case are functionally operational, as well as other components of the drivetrain.

1356 Electric Shift Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar

1356 Electric Shift Motor Typical Failures & Prevention; "...Most units fail because of water or mud intrusion. Carefully inspect motor boot or protective coverings. Be sure connector seals can keep water and debris out. Check wiring harness and connector. Replace or repair wiring as necessary. After installation, periodically select 4-wheel drive mode to ensure operation when needed..."
Source: by CARDONE®

Also, the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch on the dash; I believe that in a 90, a flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Most transmission issues will show a Diagnostic Trouble Code.

Good that you plan to have a mechanic inspect the 90. Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an ASE certified shop at sellers location. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for 80-96 Model Year & Engine Type by NHTSA @ Welcome to VIN Decoding :: provided by vPIC

Our Navy Federal Credit Union suggests using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Buying:
When Richard Rawling, (star of the reality television show Fast N' Loud on Discovery Channel) was growing up in Fort Worth, Tex., his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.
One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. Always carry cash.’ ”"

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

If you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
oil pan rust - our 96 formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96; look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
Look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

Check:
engine rear main/timing chain cover seal leaks, etc.
rust in radiator core support, bottom of B pillars and rocker panels, tailgate, and rear fender lips due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) that lets moisture & debris in the seam. A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements ⚠.
radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
body mount deterioration and frame rust
transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

RABS Overview; miesk5 NOTE: "1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It works in a similar fashion to four-wheel ABS, but monitors and operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels..."
The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Again, Cash is King!!!
"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ 8 steps to protect yourself when selling a vehicle.
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
"Do you have the maintenance records?
Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
How do I get the title?
Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
How much tread is left on the tires?
Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
Did this car belong to a smoker?
Was this car used by pet owners?
Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
Are there any document or preparation fees?"
Courtesy of ebay
General Inspection Checklist by Free VIN Check Reports and VIN Check with some changes by me.
"Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the tailgate and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on Bronco and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior
All doors open and close freely
Heavy scent of air freshener may indicate something is being concealed
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Alarm works (if applicable)
Tailgate and door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame:
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of crumpling or straightening inside the cargo area
*No signs of welds, crumpling or straightening.

Automatic Transmission:
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes:
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes
Steering:
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous:
Owners manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories"


Good fortune!
Al
 

·
Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
Joined
·
83 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yo Cboy100,
Welcome!
If the 90 can be driven in two wheel drive, the E4OD auto transmission and Borg Warner 1356 Warner Transfer Case are functionally operational, as well as other components of the drivetrain.

1356 Electric Shift Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar

1356 Electric Shift Motor Typical Failures & Prevention; "...Most units fail because of water or mud intrusion. Carefully inspect motor boot or protective coverings. Be sure connector seals can keep water and debris out. Check wiring harness and connector. Replace or repair wiring as necessary. After installation, periodically select 4-wheel drive mode to ensure operation when needed..."
Source: by CARDONE®

Also, the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch on the dash; I believe that in a 90, a flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Most transmission issues will show a Diagnostic Trouble Code.

Good that you plan to have a mechanic inspect the 90. Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an ASE certified shop at sellers location. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for 80-96 Model Year & Engine Type by NHTSA @ Welcome to VIN Decoding :: provided by vPIC

Our Navy Federal Credit Union suggests using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Buying:
When Richard Rawling, (star of the reality television show Fast N' Loud on Discovery Channel) was growing up in Fort Worth, Tex., his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.
One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. Always carry cash.’ ”"

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

If you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
oil pan rust - our 96 formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96; look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
Look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

Check:
engine rear main/timing chain cover seal leaks, etc.
rust in radiator core support, bottom of B pillars and rocker panels, tailgate, and rear fender lips due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) that lets moisture & debris in the seam. A Bronco may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements ⚠.
radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
body mount deterioration and frame rust
transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

RABS Overview; miesk5 NOTE: "1987 was the year the rear anti-lock brakes (RABS) were standardized on Broncos; "...Rear-wheel ABS is another type of ABS available on some light trucks. It works in a similar fashion to four-wheel ABS, but monitors and operates only the rear wheels, especially important with light trucks, which often carry heavy loads supported primarily by the rear suspension and wheels..."
The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Again, Cash is King!!!
"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ 8 steps to protect yourself when selling a vehicle.
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
"Do you have the maintenance records?
Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
How do I get the title?
Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
How much tread is left on the tires?
Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
Did this car belong to a smoker?
Was this car used by pet owners?
Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
Are there any document or preparation fees?"
Courtesy of ebay
General Inspection Checklist by Free VIN Check Reports and VIN Check with some changes by me.
"Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the tailgate and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on Bronco and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior
All doors open and close freely
Heavy scent of air freshener may indicate something is being concealed
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Alarm works (if applicable)
Tailgate and door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame:
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of crumpling or straightening inside the cargo area
*No signs of welds, crumpling or straightening.

Automatic Transmission:
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes:
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes
Steering:
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous:
Owners manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories"


Good fortune!
Al
i have will defiantly go cash in hand.
Was planning to check fluids already learned that with dirt bikes check for debris, water and other junk in fluids. Make sure everything else sounds right. and that there isn’t any fluids leaking out of random places

Got that part. I’m about to text the seller some questions I’ll update any valid info after I hear back from them.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,550 Posts

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ok just heard back from the owner he says he has documentation and receipts for all the work he has done. All the windows function the wipers. No warning lights on the dash. And the original transmission he says has about 200,000 miles on it. I will obviously do a thorough inspection when I go see it hopefully with a mechanic. And I’m hoping I will be driving a slick new bronco next week.
 

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Super Moderator
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24,242 Posts
Yo Cboy100,
Good!
Hope it runs well and seller didn't leave out and negative aspects.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
Joined
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11,550 Posts
200k on an automatic is a lot of miles. Expect to have it serviced in the relatively near future. Since it's a 90, it could have at least 3 different transmissions: the venerable c6, the AOD, or E4OD. The c6 does not have overdrive, and will get the worst milage. I dont believe many 302s came with it though.

My 90 f150 had a 302 with an AOD. It was a fun little truck. Had a body lift and 31x10.50s. Wish I had pics of it.
 

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Registered
1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer addition 5.8l manual floor shifter and auto locking hubs
Joined
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83 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
200k on an automatic is a lot of miles. Expect to have it serviced in the relatively near future. Since it's a 90, it could have at least 3 different transmissions: the venerable c6, the AOD, or E4OD. The c6 does not have overdrive, and will get the worst milage. I dont believe many 302s came with it though.

My 90 f150 had a 302 with an AOD. It was a fun little truck. Had a body lift and 31x10.50s. Wish I had pics of it.
👍
 
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