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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Didn't really know if I should put this in Tech or Noobie or what... so here it is. My usual, rambling stories of my mechanical ineptitude. ;)

Tailgate window has been acting up a bit lately. Recently ordered up new Dorman door/gate latch bushings and Precision rear window channel felts, after re-greasing and testing the motor a few months back when I installed the new tailgate torsion bar. Power was getting weaker and weaker to the point I was having to help it move up or down sometimes or "wiggle" the dash switch up and down through a rough spot, so I assumed the torn felts in the window track were the issue. Then the other day... it just stopped working at all, 1 inch from "closed". Dash switch and tailgate key controls just stopped working, give no reaction at all.

Got out there today and swapped out my studded tires for my non. Didn't even remark 'em for rotation with such a weak, short season. We've still got snow on the ground but haven't had any on the roads for almost a month now and no signs of anything else coming worth studs for the rest of this season. At least, that's what the groundhogs say and I hate to waste studs and streets.

Decided I had better deal with the rear window while the sun was still out. That's when I realized... I can't get to the inside access panel, at all.
I've got that big speaker box, with a sturdy platform built over it that takes up the entire cargo area. I love having the platform for so many reasons but this was the first time I'd ever needed to get into the tailgate and there's no way I can get that platform out through the front, never mind all the stuff packed around under it.



My only option was to disconnect and lift the topper up enough to clear the rear window from the channel and drop the tailgate with the window fully extended. Not as scary as it might sound with a fresh, new torsion bar but still a huge pain the ass. Of course, even that probably wouldn't have been an option, if I hadn't already removed the "window down" safety catch rod and lever from my tailgate handle. Never thought it would come in handy like that.

I hadn't removed my top yet... even though I've owned this rig since Oct. '16. I managed to bust every single x-mas tree plug in the trim somehow and when I finally got all the trim out of the way, I was greeted by my first "secure" torx-40 screw ever. I've got plenty of torx sockets but no "secure" ones for that stupid little tang sticking up in the middle of the torx tip. So I grabbed a little putty, took an imprint of the screw top, borrowed the lil' lady's pickup and headed down to NAPA. $7 and 30 minutes later, I was crawling around in the back, pulling the topper bolts out.

Finally got 'em all removed. Was happily surprised to see I was only missing 1 bolt and clip on the middle of the pass side. Also the first time I've dealt with the topper brake light wire clip and found the alignment stud on the front channel of the cab. After lifting it up on my back and moving it around to get familiar, I managed to prop the rear of the topper up on some wood blocks and finally got the tailgate opened up. No way I could have gotten that done by myself without breaking the rear window, if I hadn't replaced that broken torsion bar.



I thought some of you might appreciate some of this situation with the changes I've made over time and the unique problems that came with the rear cargo platform. I couldn't just recommend these steps to someone else with the classic "stuck window" problem and if I hadn't removed the window down safety feature, I may or may not have been able to even open the latch on the gate. It worked out but it was a unique pain in the ass.


Once I got the gate down, I went ahead and swapped out the door and gate bushings, as it was a quick job I didn't want to forget about. I was also happily surprised that the little Dorman set I ordered had bushings for both the tailgate and the doors. I hadn't even been worried about the doors but since I had 'em, I swapped 'em out and found the drivers door was on the verge of destruction, so that was cool.

I finally got into the issue with the window. First I checked the fuse... nearly smacking my head for not doing that in the first place but it was fine and the electric door locks (same fuse) were working fine to verify that. Next thing I tested was the key lever, by just pushing the buttons directly to hear if the motor was even trying to do anything. Got nothing at all... no buzz, no humm, no reaction at all in either direction. I've had to rebuild so many window motors over the years, I didn't even think about it before I pulled the tailgate motor. Bench tested it with a power tool battery and it practically jumped off the bench, so it's working just fine.

Next thing I did was to start checking the wires, routing and plugs. Everything looked like it should be ok but I did find that the PO had dome some seriously weak and questionable wiring when he tied in the 7 prong trailer plug into the drive side taillight. Still... nothing that should have mess with the gate but I'll probably re-wire it myself, just to be sure it lasts longer than a few more months or years.

By the time I was too sore to keep at it anymore... I'd pulled about 80% of the wire harness in the gate apart (and destroyed a bunch of clip fasteners), pulled the window into gate felts, pulled the window itself and pulled the window tracks out. I've still got no idea where I've lost the power to the tailgate motor.

I've had a rear window relay for years now but never installed it, so I need to find that write-up around here so I can do it while I've got everything apart and accessible but I've got to figure out what's up with the motor not getting power before I start in on that.

Anyway... that was my afternoon. I'll be taking tomorrow off the Bronco to work on the harvest but in the meantime, I'd love to hear ideas and thoughts on troubleshooting the electrical issue. I guess what's bugging me the most about it... it kind of "developed" with poor performance that slowly got worse until it just stopped. Normally... I'd think that's more of a mechanical issue developing than an electrical one. If the window was being "strained" then I could see the motor burning out or a fuse finally blowing from too much load but a problem in the wires?!? What am I missing?

TIA, AA!
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Is the motor grounded to the tailgate, in my 84 that was the original issue I had... bad ground. My fix was a grounding strap to the tub. Now many years later it’s rusted off arm pins that hold the plastic track slides...whatever the heaven those are called.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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I have no idea what could be causing your issue, but that sure was quite a story. Kind of like you painted yourself into a corner with the platform.

I know my 78's rear window has been going up and down pretty slow lately, but that's due to the weather. All the frost and cold air is creating a lot of friction. During the summer when everything is super soft and pliable from the heat it goes up and down very fast.
 

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1986 Ford Bronco, 351w with edelbrock aluminum top end and holly 600.
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2,215 Posts
I bet it’s the inside switch. I had to chase the 85 around like that and it ended up being the inside switch. IIRC the ground goes through it and if that switch goes nothing will work.


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I'm interested in seeing what the problem is once you get it worked out. My 96 switch in the dash does not lower or raise the rear window. It'll only go up/down from the key in the tailgate, I just started my build thread and am starting on the interior (removing all carpet to insulate/replace the carpet, weather seals, sound insulation, etc.) before I address anything exterior. I'd like it to go down the road without all the current jingles, creaks, shudders etc...plan on pulling the tailgate window/latch assembly out for an inspection/replace parts if/where needed. The previous owner removed the tailgate panel on the inside because the latch wasn't working and he never got it back together.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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2,146 Posts
You know the motor works on the bench, but unless I missed it, it doesn't sound like you tested whether power is getting to the tailgate. If it's not the dash switch like biggum suggested, I would guess you've got some rotted wiring. It runs through that driver's side B-pillar base area that is notorious for dome light rot. My dome light suffered a similar slow death, getting worse and worse as the wire condition deteriorated.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,903 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
@fodder - I did remove, sand and re-install the ground connection behind the drvr side tail-light. I haven't checked the wires yet. I need to know more about the relay install, so I can figure out where I'll be cutting the wire to splice that in. That's where I can test the wire harness back there for power/ground. I already know power isn't getting to the motor.

@biggum - are you saying the dash switch or the key in the tailgate switch? I'd had plenty of times on other year rigs where the dash switch needed replaced but the tailgate kept working fine. I suspect the tailgate/key switch, which is why I was testing the buttons manually.

Appreciate the input.
 

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78 & 92
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I have had to fix 3 of these where the wires near the tailight had been flexed so many times that the insulation was cracked, allowing the wires to corrode on the inside. Basically ended up making new harness from the switch to the connection to the rear main harness.
Something to check, Was a little hard to diag. as was still getting voltage though it was only on 1/3 of the strands of wire left in them.
 

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Yo Pepe`,

For now, due to dead slow Comcast internet;
"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

154337


Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications.

Adding Relays to TAIL GATE

154335



To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp (incandescent - NOT LED) across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a
All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To add a simple self-diagnostic capability, wire a 12V lamp (incandescent - NOT LED) across the safety switch terminals, and mount it in the tailgate shell above the lock cylinder in the inside sill (through a carpet retainer hole if present). If either control switch is activated, and the only thing preventing the glass from moving is the safety switch, the lamp will light and be visible to a person using either switch

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semi permanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications.




This can be any common 12V incandescent panel lamp. It's simply wired across the safety switch Motorcraft SW5163 in a '78-96 Bronco tailgate. If the window doesn't work, and the lamp lights, the problem is that the safety switch isn't closed, probably due to the the tailgate latches not being fully closed, and the tailgate should be re-aligned. If the lamp DOESN'T light when the window won't move, the fault is elsewhere"
All by Steve and Ford
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I'll start by saying, how have I been so lucky in 17 years to never have a rear window or tailgate issue? So i dont really know squat about em.

I just about fell out of my chair though when @BikerPepe` mentioned taking time off for the harvest... I wish I could harvest stuff here in KS.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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"All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g..."
I stand corrected then. The 6-pin B-pillar base wiring harness must just be for cargo light, center brake light (not sure about tails, seems like too few wires), and maybe rear defrost?
 

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Pepe`, I feel your pain. My window only works key down and nothing else. I even tried a new dash switch hoping, but not expecting it to work.

Ive decided to just run new wires for everything once i get around to it.

I'll be following this thread to see what you end up doing.
 

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1986 Ford Bronco, 351w with edelbrock aluminum top end and holly 600.
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On mine the window would work with the inside switch but not the outside switch; unless the inside switch was moved to just the right spot.

It has something to do with the way the flow of power works.

Not much help - sorry


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BikerPepe, crazy your dealing with this also as i just torn into my tailgate this weekend as well. I bought a new dash switch which worked for about 5mins and stopped. Ive tested continuity on both the old and new dash switches and they check out. so next i'll check the connector behind the dash switch.

my motor will go up/down when connecting to a battery (drill). My keyed switch does not work from inside the gate. I also tried jumping the safety switch and that didnt get me anywhere. so i have a dead key switch for sure. I am still planning on bypassing the safety switch at some point just so its out of the loop.

i was just thinking today how nice it would be if someone could build a replacement harness with relays like steve83 had drawn up. I hate electrical and frankly struggle reading and understanding a schematic.

anyhow i'll update this thread with what i find as well.
 

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-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I finally got into the issue with the window. First I checked the fuse... nearly smacking my head for not doing that in the first place but it was fine and the electric door locks (same fuse) were working fine to verify that. Next thing I tested was the key lever, by just pushing the buttons directly to hear if the motor was even trying to do anything. Got nothing at all... no buzz, no humm, no reaction at all in either direction
Did you close the driver's side gate latch during testing? On mine it seems I have to close both halves of the clamshell latch evenly to get the safety switch to work.

I'd suspect the latch safety switch, since it affects all directions from both switches. Did you have a chance to test it after replacing the striker bushings? When those wear out that safety switch doesn't close right.

Thinking about the things can make it stop all at once instead of a partial shutdown these come to mind:
-bad motor (but yours tested good).
-bad or misaligned safety switch
-bad ground to the dash switch.
-bad connection to the motor.
-bad connection to the safety switch.
-bad connection from the key switch.

That might not be everything, but it's all that comes to mind right now that shuts it all down at once. Anything else I can think of would only affect partial operation, at least at 1st until something else failed & set up a multi problem situation.

Click on the Common Replies to FAQs in my sig. Post 3 has a lot of tailgate window info & links. I wouldn't do the relay thing until you get the stock system working, so you know you aren't still using a problem component.

The relay upgrade link in that FAQs thread doesn't have a relay diagram currently, but Miesk5 found it & posted it a thread recently. Due to the site downgrade I couldn't edit it into that thread due to the edit limits. I'll find it again tonight.
 

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Pepe, did you make sure the square slider SPIN FREELY? If the window only goes down an inch or two, this is the reason I find every time. They seize up, then you think the motor is at fault when really the motor can't pull the window down or push it up. I just fixed the same issue in a tailgate yesterday.

If the sliders spin easily, this remedies the window on most occasions.

I swear I need to do a Tailgate tech thread as I fix these on a regular basis...lol. At least 10 a year I do....
 

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that was quite a read! i've got nothing but well wishes and i'm thankful it's not me tracking down electrical issues.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #18
I have had to fix 3 of these where the wires near the tailight had been flexed so many times that the insulation was cracked, allowing the wires to corrode on the inside. Basically ended up making new harness from the switch to the connection to the rear main harness.
Something to check, Was a little hard to diag. as was still getting voltage though it was only on 1/3 of the strands of wire left in them.
I checked the wires from the rear quater and into the gate. The harness was originally covered by a fairly thick, hardened over time, plastic sleeve that I ended up poping out the rubber plugs and cutting it apart to get to the wires. For the most part, they look fine. There is one wire that looks burred a little though, so I need to check it closer with my "reading" glasses on. Getting old sucks. I don't think it's the issue but it's worth verifying that there's not a pinhole in the wire sheath or something that could have led to wire rot inside the wire cover.

Yo Pepe`,
For now, due to dead slow Comcast internet;
Al... I appreciate you so much but man, reading and understanding those diagrams is like trying to work out algebraic fractions to me. My brains just goes into "duh!" mode. I will give these a closer read again out in the shop and maybe between the diagrams and going over the rig at the same time, it will help. Even if I don't understand it all... at least I'll have a solid idea what color wires are doing what. As always, you da man!

I'll start by saying, how have I been so lucky in 17 years to never have a rear window or tailgate issue? So i dont really know squat about em.
I just about fell out of my chair though when @BikerPepe` mentioned taking time off for the harvest... I wish I could harvest stuff here in KS.
Seriously? Never? That's nearly impossible with these rigs dude. Every time I buy a new to me FSB, fixing a tailgate issues is a given. It's ok... your time will come and there will be lots of good stuff to read on it around here... assuming you can find it. ;)

I read Kentucky just voted in Medical, so maybe in a few years... you could be harvesting too. FWIW, it's the WORST part of growing your own. The lil lady and I work 6 hours straight, to get through 4 med. sized plants. It's too cold out to do it in the shop, so we work in my office/bedroom, which then reeks so strongly, I can't use the room for 2 days, even running an ionizer fulltime to clear the smell. I even made her work with me despite it being her Birthday and she was sick too. She's a trooper and I'm an a-hole but the plants don't care what's going on in our lives. When they're ready, they're ready and like most crops, the longer you delay, the lower the quality so putting it off isn't really an option without wasting months worth of daily care and attention, dirt, nutrients, electricity, etc. There's a reason I used to make good money, legally providing for other medical users.

Pepe`, I feel your pain. My window only works key down and nothing else. I even tried a new dash switch hoping, but not expecting it to work.
Ive decided to just run new wires for everything once i get around to it.
I'll be following this thread to see what you end up doing.
I'll definatly update the thread as I keep trying to figure it out. Good luck with yours. Electrical problems are the worst but at least you've got some reactions to work with. I'd try to find the actual issue before throwing a re-wire at it but I understand the mentality.

On mine the window would work with the inside switch but not the outside switch; unless the inside switch was moved to just the right spot.
It has something to do with the way the flow of power works.
Not much help - sorry
No worries bud. You never know what might trigger the right question and crack the puzzle. ;)


BikerPepe, crazy your dealing with this also as i just torn into my tailgate this weekend as well. I bought a new dash switch which worked for about 5mins and stopped. Ive tested continuity on both the old and new dash switches and they check out. so next i'll check the connector behind the dash switch.

my motor will go up/down when connecting to a battery (drill). My keyed switch does not work from inside the gate. I also tried jumping the safety switch and that didnt get me anywhere. so i have a dead key switch for sure. I am still planning on bypassing the safety switch at some point just so its out of the loop.

i was just thinking today how nice it would be if someone could build a replacement harness with relays like steve83 had drawn up. I hate electrical and frankly struggle reading and understanding a schematic.

anyhow i'll update this thread with what i find as well.
Not so crazy really. These are one of the more common problems we have as Bronco owners. I've had to deal with one issue or another with these gates on every FSB I've ever had to work on, not just the ones I've personally owned. With my Dad and my lil' lady both owning '78's too, my Bronco work is never done.
I'm really hoping I don't have to tear the dash apart. I've got other things to do in the dash (blinker light, replace the cracked p-side brace, etc.) and the plastic is so brittle on my rig I swear I can't take anything apart without breaking clip[s and stuff that's so hard to replace. Once I get into the dash, I'll have to deal with a lot of other "mission creep" stuff and I'd rather do that after spring has sprung, at least. And yea... as noted before, I seriously struggle with the elec. diagrams for some reason too. Hell... every time I figure out how to use my multi-meter, I completely forget by the next time I have to use it again.
Hope yours comes together faster than mine... and I'll keep updating the thread as I go through it. Hopefully, we'll help each other out.


Did you close the driver's side gate latch during testing? On mine it seems I have to close both halves of the clamshell latch evenly to get the safety switch to work.

I'd suspect the latch safety switch, since it affects all directions from both switches. Did you have a chance to test it after replacing the striker bushings? When those wear out that safety switch doesn't close right.

Thinking about the things can make it stop all at once instead of a partial shutdown these come to mind:
-bad motor (but yours tested good).
-bad or misaligned safety switch
-bad ground to the dash switch.
-bad connection to the motor.
-bad connection to the safety switch.
-bad connection from the key switch.

That might not be everything, but it's all that comes to mind right now that shuts it all down at once. Anything else I can think of would only affect partial operation, at least at 1st until something else failed & set up a multi problem situation.

Click on the Common Replies to FAQs in my sig. Post 3 has a lot of tailgate window info & links. I wouldn't do the relay thing until you get the stock system working, so you know you aren't still using a problem component.

The relay upgrade link in that FAQs thread doesn't have a relay diagram currently, but Miesk5 found it & posted it a thread recently. Due to the site downgrade I couldn't edit it into that thread due to the edit limits. I'll find it again tonight.
Actually... the bushing on the p-side was the one that broke down during the torsion bar install and was the reason for the replacement. I do close the d-side latch when testing though. I just have to remember to release it before I try to close the gate again. ;)
If the safety switch inside the latch went bad, then that wouldn't matter and with the way it struggled before going bad, it's a possibility... or I may have a multi-problem. I'll check those links and you have my obvious sympathy with the downgraded forum issues. I'd like to kick VS in the nuts for making things so much harder to deal with around here now. I'd greatly appreciate it if you can find and share that "relay upgrade" diagram. I recall seeing it but I can't seem to find a damn thing around here anymore.

Not to mention, not only can I not wish my fellow members a Happy Birthday anymore... but my 50th came and went and unlike we have enjoyed for years and years past around here, not a peep from my FSB fam. It was kinda sad and hit a little harder with a recent death of a good friend and incarceration of another close brother of mine. Nobody's fault but VS and the damn forum downgrade.

Pepe, did you make sure the square slider SPIN FREELY? If the window only goes down an inch or two, this is the reason I find every time. They seize up, then you think the motor is at fault when really the motor can't pull the window down or push it up. I just fixed the same issue in a tailgate yesterday.

If the sliders spin easily, this remedies the window on most occasions.

I swear I need to do a Tailgate tech thread as I fix these on a regular basis...lol. At least 10 a year I do....
Spin freely... or slide freely??? Like I said... I pulled the elec. harness apart and the window completely out of the gate. The sliders are pretty crusty and I plan to wire brush clean 'em and lube 'em up for smoother action but if that were the issue, I'd at least hear the motor trying to turn. Same as I should have if it was the window tracks, which I have fresh rubbers to replace while I'm at it.
The plastic nubs in side the tracks are still in decent condition and the scissor arms aren't pretty but work well enough and have plenty of spring left in 'em, so I shouldn't really need to replace that piece either.

that was quite a read! i've got nothing but well wishes and i'm thankful it's not me tracking down electrical issues.
Yea. Sorry about that. I'm still living in the past and type like everybody's reading this stuff on a PC screen. I enjoy telling a good story to people that can appreciate it but tiny screens make a long story, just that much longer I imagine. Yay progress! (sarcasm) Appreciate the good vibes buddy.


Well... that took a lot longer than I expected. Got a few more threads to catch up on, then jump out of the wheelchair, grab a shower and head outside to see what else I can mess up. ;)
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Correct, never even had the access panel off either bronco.

I can imagine the stank in that room. Yeah hopefully soon. The legal beagles have started discussing it in the past few years, so we're on the right track.
 

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Spin freely... or slide freely??? Like I said... I pulled the elec. harness apart and the window completely out of the gate. The sliders are pretty crusty and I plan to wire brush clean 'em and lube 'em up for smoother action but if that were the issue, I'd at least hear the motor trying to turn. Same as I should have if it was the window tracks, which I have fresh rubbers to replace while I'm at it.
The plastic nubs in side the tracks are still in decent condition and the scissor arms aren't pretty but work well enough and have plenty of spring left in 'em, so I shouldn't really need to replace that piece either.
The square slider(s) have to "spin and turn" to be able to slide along the slider tracks. With the rotation of the arms of the regulator, if the squares are locked and don't turn, the window WON'T MOVE .

Take the window off the regulator arms by removing the 7/16 sized nuts. There's a total of 4 of them, 2 for each track. Take the slider tracks off the window and the regulator exposing the slider squares. Reach in and turn the squares. If they're locked up or it takes ANY effort to turn them, they need attention. Spray some PB Blaster on them, put the slider slides onto the squares and use the sliders as a wrench to turn the squares back and forth to free them up.

I had one recently that was so gummed up, the PB Blaster did a little bit to help it, but adding dish soap to it helped it even more to be able to spin.

Every tailgate I get with any issues, these squares are the MAIN CULPRIT.
 
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