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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #82
High praise from a man who's work I respect. Can't ask for anything more than that. Thanks and good luck. You should give a little write-up yourself. You're much better with wiring than I am.
As the only other guy on the board that I know of, who's rockin' a platform in the storage area, blocking that access if/when the window goes, I was hoping you'd get a gander at this one.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
so i spent a little time on the gate friday. I have power at the connector at the dash, if i recall it was 11.? volts. I then went to the plug under the rear bumper and couldnt get any voltage readings. so at this point I have a feeling the wiring running down along the frame is the issue.
So would spending the time to do the relay upgrade make sense at this point? Or must I check the wiring harness that runs down the frame?
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,903 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
The relay mod will boost the power with a fresh, dedicated power line but still relies on the stock harness for control from the dash switch (Purple/Light Green = UP, Purple/Light Blue = Down) and defroster power/control (Brown/Light Blue).

You sure you tested the proper side of the wire when you disconnected the harness at the rear? You'll need to find the issue with it running down the frame.
 

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I wanna make one recommendation pepe. Those relays will still be exposed to moisture and seeing as you're in the great white north it would be wise to slather the terminals in liberal amounts of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. From stories I hear most electrical problems up there seem to stem from corrosion.
 

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this thread makes me thankful for my soft top.

looks like another job well done, though, for a guy who will have you believe he's near incompetent!
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,903 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
@pfun41 - Not a bad thought and one I considered when mounting them up as high into that body cavity as was reasonable. All the wire connections should be water tight but yea, those relays do leave a little to be desired when it comes to weather resistance. Appreciate the thought. I was thinking a little marine grease where the relays plug or possibly even slathering the back side of the wire feed into the relay plugs with that liquid e-tape stuff.

@dashcam - If I were competent, it wouldn't take me 1/2 the time I spend and I wouldn't be here asking for help all the time. I get by with a lot of help from my friends. Thanks though.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
ok, i have power at the dash plug with the key in the on position. I have disconnected the white round plug under the rear bumper/frame area. I do not appear to have power on the line that should be hot all the time. so where does this hot all the time wire run back towards the front of the rig/dash?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
update, i do have power all the way back to the white plug. the issue is the power wire got pulled out of that plug part way and the end of the wire itself is burnt. Any idea how to take that plug apart so i can reinsert the power wire correctly so i can maintain using that plug? i hope this make sense.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,903 Posts
Discussion Starter #91
Sorry bud. Gone all day dealing with my own Bronco issues.

I'm not sure that's a "rebuild-able" connector. You might have to search around and see if you can find a stock replacement to patch in or go with an aftermarket 4 wire connector. I'm a big fan of the connections you can pull completely apart and rebuild from scratch, like on my Hog. Those suckers are weather tight and easily disassembled and re-assembled. You could always bypass that connector completely and just wire it together direct. Not something I'd do but I'm a little OCD about things like that. Pretty sure the 2nd gens ran the wires directly all the way through, fwiw.

The good news is... you seem to have isolated the problem and that's over 1/2 the battle right there.

Spent a little time checking... can't find much beyond that connector being "C418M" or "C418F", depending on if it's the male or female end. Even checked the EVTM to see if I could come up with a more specific part number for ya but crapped out there. Searched around the web a little, came up empty but that doesn't mean much. Any solid, weatherproof, 4 wire, aftermarket connector should be a viable replacement.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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I bypassed the hot wire since the metal tang that holds the wire in the connector was shot. I then plugged the connector back in for the rest of the wiring to the TG and I still have zero movement on either the switch or the TG Key switch.

I am starting to believe that connector may have to be bypassed.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #93
Which power wire was the problem one? You've got UP, DOWN & Defrost... and the Black/White for power direct to the rear switch. If you run the relay mod, you'll be replacing the Black/White power line completely at the relay's, so if that's the problem one, the relay upgrade would fix that after the connector. Of course, if there's a problem with one wire at the C418 connector, there may be more there or others about to fail.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
I have power all the way to the keyed switch. I have the safety switch bypassed. the keyed switch doesnt work. is this my hang up?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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ok so i have bypassed the 4 pin connector under the truck/bumper. the wires were very corroded. after doing this i still had no movement using either dash or keyed switch. then i started messing with the motor plug and i now have movement using both switches. So i am going to bypass that connector as well now. i suspect the wires are corroded.

if this works out I would really like to get the key cylinder out. How is this done?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
ok i am in business. the connector for the motor also needed to be removed and new connections made. Im really stoked. now to try and get everything back together correctly.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,903 Posts
Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Wow. 2020, is the year of the tailgate Hauntings. They seem to be throwing a bit of a fit lately.
I just mentioned in the WDYDTYBT thread, Aaron msg'd me asking for help with the tailgate window on my old MUD E1 too.

Sorry I haven't been around. Had a rough day. Glad to hear you got it figured out @TravisITGuy . Did you end up bypassing all your connectors in the rear or replacing them? Sounds like that soggy Oregon weather played hell with all your connectors back there.

Glad to hear somebody had some good luck fixing it all up. Good on ya @Ford 4x4 (y)

Hope it works out smooth @biggum At least you know you've got "back-up", if you need it. ;)
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,805 Posts
yes the connector under the bumper/frame had major corrosion. the motor connector was also faulty.

I will need to replace the rollers and side slider deals inside the gate.. basically the same parts you replaced. the glass goes up/down ok but not the greatest and is a little noisier then i would like.

I need to know how to get the key cylinder out of the tailgate. I took the inside mechanism apart, but i couldnt figure out how to remove the cylinder itself.
 
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