[Doosenberry]

What's the preferred method?

I'm accumulating parts for a lift on my '78 (4-5" range) and I've been reading a lot.

A lot of forums have people saying a riser is the way to go, especially if you do a tie rod over conversion, but that you can have the riser interfere with the frame when flexing.

Most people agree that a drop bracket will add a lot of stress to the frame, but most lift kits have them in the kit, so I don't know if that's just companies being cheap or if that's the preferred way to go.

I plan on flexing it a lot, so I'm trying to get the best setup with the least amount of issues I can. All opinions welcome!

Thanks!

 

[BigBlue 94]

Neither... Buy or make a custom track bar thats longer for the new lift.

Both a drop bracket or riser will put extra leverage on the frame or axle.

But of the two, I prefer the frame mount drop bracket. It can be gusseted easier and wont snag of stuff like it might on the axle. Plus, the axle mount is notoriously a weaker point.

 

[Doosenberry]

So no need to keep the track bar parallel with the drag link? I keep seeing that mentioned.

 

[BigBlue 94]

So no need to keep the track bar parallel with the drag link? I keep seeing that mentioned.

Yes and no. It doesnt have to be perfect, as long as its the correct length and somewhere close to parallel. Usually, the extended ones have a bit of an S-shape to keep them mostly parallel. Ideally, you could do this with the drag link too, and not use a drop pitman arm.

Lots of superduty guys just use an extended, adjustable track bar when lifting.

As I said though, if this is more than you wanna do, the drop bracket would be my next choice. But it will limit travel slightly compared to no drop brackets.

I would stay away from the riser personally.

 

[Doosenberry]

That makes sense. I've seen adjustable drag links before. I think Wildhorses sells one. I guess I'll just take it slow and order things if it looks like I need more adjustability. I really only want to do this once!

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

I agree with @BigBlue 94
With the correct steering linkage, you will end up very close to parallel.
Apparently I do not have any good pics of mine. Anyways with the WH trac bar in the stock bracket and linkage like their Clysdale setup the bars will be very inline. The important part is the drag link hits the knuckle link near where the trac bar meets the axle. I also run a drop pitman arm.

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

Edit, I did find one

Hopefully will make what I posted above make more sense. This setup is good at speed, no bumpsteer.
Notice how the WH trac bar doesn't have that wierd upwards bend at the axle side, like the stock part does.

 

[Doosenberry]

Is the drop pitman necessary or is that something I should play by ear as well and only get it if I'm getting bumpsteer?

 

[CrazyBRONCOguy]

If you do tie rod flip, likely will not need it.
Just have to see where the relationship between the trac bar and steering link ends up.

 

[NickOille]

Something to keep in mind, your level you need to stay parallel with between the trac bar and the drag link is the line from pivot point to pivot point, so if you do a custom trac bar with a bend in it or the factory one with the kick in the end, it may not visually be on the same level as the drag link when it is right.
Yes drop brackets on the frame do add more stress, and I’ve seen a handful of them rip mounts off the frame.... but everyone runs them, far less people run a riser on the axle.
On my early bronco I run a riser on the axle and ripped it off on Rubicon earlier this year, so that extra leverage of a drop bracket or riser works both ways.... Also, running that riser I had to put a little extra clearance in my oil pan, due to it raising the trac bar closer
On my 93 f150 with a solid 44, I run the same WH trac bar as posted above, and I did a tie rod flip with a stock pitman arm. Then I just built my frame side bracket to place the top of the trac bar where it would match up with the top of the drag link .

If it were me, I would lift it and do a tie rod flip, then asses what your geometry looks like from there and start making a plan for the trac bar

 

[Doosenberry]

Something to keep in mind, your level you need to stay parallel with between the trac bar and the drag link is the line from pivot point to pivot point, so if you do a custom trac bar with a bend in it or the factory one with the kick in the end, it may not visually be on the same level as the drag link when it is right.
Yes drop brackets on the frame do add more stress, and I’ve seen a handful of them rip mounts off the frame.... but everyone runs them, far less people run a riser on the axle.
On my early bronco I run a riser on the axle and ripped it off on Rubicon earlier this year, so that extra leverage of a drop bracket or riser works both ways.... Also, running that riser I had to put a little extra clearance in my oil pan, due to it raising the trac bar closer
On my 93 f150 with a solid 44, I run the same WH trac bar as posted above, and I did a tie rod flip with a stock pitman arm. Then I just built my frame side bracket to place the top of the trac bar where it would match up with the top of the drag link .

If it were me, I would lift it and do a tie rod flip, then asses what your geometry looks like from there and start making a plan for the trac bar

Is a tie rod flip just a matter of reaming the top side of the knuckle and adding an insert to match the tie rod's taper? I've read a little bit on it, but haven't seen the process, just a before and after kind of deal in pictures.

 

[NickOille]

Yeah, pretty much. On my f150 I just reamed it from the other direction and used the Bronco Graveyard inserts to put the stock tie rod back on top. On my Early Bronco I used inserts from Ruffstuff for gm 1 too tie rod ends and built a custom tie rod and drag link.
If there is a chance you might plow a rock with the tie rod, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to build one instead of just running the stock one flipped over