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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the preferred method?

I'm accumulating parts for a lift on my '78 (4-5" range) and I've been reading a lot.

A lot of forums have people saying a riser is the way to go, especially if you do a tie rod over conversion, but that you can have the riser interfere with the frame when flexing.

Most people agree that a drop bracket will add a lot of stress to the frame, but most lift kits have them in the kit, so I don't know if that's just companies being cheap or if that's the preferred way to go.

I plan on flexing it a lot, so I'm trying to get the best setup with the least amount of issues I can. All opinions welcome!

Thanks!
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So no need to keep the track bar parallel with the drag link? I keep seeing that mentioned.
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That makes sense. I've seen adjustable drag links before. I think Wildhorses sells one. I guess I'll just take it slow and order things if it looks like I need more adjustability. I really only want to do this once!
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Is the drop pitman necessary or is that something I should play by ear as well and only get it if I'm getting bumpsteer?
 

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Premium Member
78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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3,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Something to keep in mind, your level you need to stay parallel with between the trac bar and the drag link is the line from pivot point to pivot point, so if you do a custom trac bar with a bend in it or the factory one with the kick in the end, it may not visually be on the same level as the drag link when it is right.
Yes drop brackets on the frame do add more stress, and I’ve seen a handful of them rip mounts off the frame.... but everyone runs them, far less people run a riser on the axle.
On my early bronco I run a riser on the axle and ripped it off on Rubicon earlier this year, so that extra leverage of a drop bracket or riser works both ways.... Also, running that riser I had to put a little extra clearance in my oil pan, due to it raising the trac bar closer
On my 93 f150 with a solid 44, I run the same WH trac bar as posted above, and I did a tie rod flip with a stock pitman arm. Then I just built my frame side bracket to place the top of the trac bar where it would match up with the top of the drag link .

If it were me, I would lift it and do a tie rod flip, then asses what your geometry looks like from there and start making a plan for the trac bar
Is a tie rod flip just a matter of reaming the top side of the knuckle and adding an insert to match the tie rod's taper? I've read a little bit on it, but haven't seen the process, just a before and after kind of deal in pictures.
 
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