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Discussion Starter #1
Alright after searching I've found zilch. Just a quick question for curiosity's sake! Has anyone done away with their drag bar/track bar and added two triangulated links while keeping the factory radius arms when doing a d44 sad? Like a radius arm with extra bars coming from frame side and running in towards the center of the axle? Just to do away with the trac bar. Or would this even work?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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Like a 4 link? I think part of the issue is the engine cross member being in the way.
 

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I’ve never been offended enough by a trac bar to want to remove it......
You couldn’t keep stock radius arms if you had two trianglated upper links, the arc the radius arms swing the axle in would cause bind. You would need to do an entire 4 link
 

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The above is correct.
-The issue is a 4 link typically picks up both the top and the bottom of the axle (seperately), and more or less keeps it so the knuckles maintain their angle to the ground threw much of the range of motion.
Due to the 78/79 style arm grabbing both the top and bottom at same time, the axle (as mentioned above) actually goes an an arc. This is the reason you get coil spring bow if you lift them with softer springs, its un-avoidable (the stock springs are doing this too its just a lot harder to see) This is also why on a stock truck these arms are very close to parallel with the ground.
-If you got the heads of extended arms Such as the James Duff pieces you could likely make this work, but you would have seperate top and bottom arms then. This is how a lot of the nicest 05+ superduty suspension lifts are.
-Also sometimes the steering drag link and a true 4 link do not play nice together, unless you are going full hydro.
-The trac bar and steering link work good togethor as they keep near the same plain of motion as the axle moves up and down. These Solid axle Trucks also have the axle move side to side when going up/down (if looking from the front), hence why you have to lengthen the trac bar when lifting them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I figured there would be an issue with binding but trying to figure it out in my head was a little tough. I've done a d60 swap on my last bronco with leafs and I'm picking up a 79 d44 axle next week. Gonna get it swapped in as soon as I can. Just a thought experiment i had running through my mind. Now I have another thought experiment for you fellas! What about setting a rear axle up the same as the front. Cut the leaf perces off, weld on some wedges. Run radius arms and a trac bar with coils. The only obstacle I could forsee here is that the way the radius arm mounts to the axle is designed to push against the axle. Maybe you would have issues with the radius arm caps not being strong enough upon breaking force and trying to pull the four bolts out of the radius arm along with your axle? Any thoughts
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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this could be done, you would use a heim joint though vs the setup mentioned.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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yes
 

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I think youd be better off doing the 4 link idea in the rear. Similair amount of work. Or what is called a 3 link.
I have seen this (front radius arms) done on the rear and with coil springs and such, it did not appear worth the effort from what I saw.
My opinion is skewed towards desert running / sand stuff though, so it may work great in the woods and I just dont see that.
 
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