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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I ordered a tranny temp guage...And am gonna pick it up and the sender tommorrow morning. Its a VDO Guage with an electrical sender.

I was planning on building a "T" fitting before my tranny cooler and having the sender read from there...I know the stock hard lines have a 1/4'' compression fitting on them, That will fit in a standard 3-way 1/4'' Tee.

Opposite of where the hard line feeds in, I was gonna put a hose barb, and then just screw the sender itself into the tee. Will i run into any problems doing it like this? I thought about putting the sender where the hard line comes out of the pan, But, Its a 'fairly' low point, and dirt and stuff may be able to get to it. I dont think heat dispersion will be a problem over the 4 feet length of the tranny line.

Any other tips?
 

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I would suggest mounting the gauge closer to the trans, that way you'll have a more accurate indication of your true trans temp. Much like the temp sender on the motor is at the top of the motor where the water temp is highest.

Just my $0.02

Tim
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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this has always been my question about the tranny temp gauge. do you want it right as the fluid exits and then trust your cooler is doing its job? or after the cooler to see how good its doing? also, since its the same range as the water in most cases, why dont the cheaper companies have them out yet? i dont need to drop more $$ than i have to. there was a cheap triple set in the truck when i got it and they work fine.
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #5
I've seen that. But, It doesnt answer my question if the t im planning on using is gonna be suitable.
 

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Opposite of where the hard line feeds in, I was gonna put a hose barb, and then just screw the sender itself into the tee.
why not keep it all steel lines. its simple to do. and will be trouble free.
your sender should be fine as long as it is in the "hot" line somewhere. i believe putting it in the return line would give me a false sense of being ok... like someone blowing smoke up your aSs.
:beer
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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you would have to drill & weld a bung on the pan. but your idea sounds great. if you find the right "T" do it that way as close to the exit from the tranny case as possible. but dude, at least in my 79, it looks like a pain getting too far up there were they exit the case. get as close as you can. its not high pressure from what most say. i use hose clamps to add my tranny cooler so you dont need to double flare the line like brakes. just a single flair should do. how much was the VDO? i think perma cool sells them too. im waiting for Summit to offer a cheap one.
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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Drilim said:
I've seen that. But, It doesnt answer my question if the t im planning on using is gonna be suitable.

The only real way to answer you question is with 3 temp senders and a reasearch project :twak

You would have to sample the pan temp, then see what the temp of the outgoing fuild is compaired to the cooled fluid returning. Then get an idea of the cooling copacity of your system, and see how it relates to the pan temp.

Then you'd get an idea of what the temp really means.

I sample the fluid after cooling, but would like to sample both.
I run about 125 after cooling in winter, 160 in the summer.
When I'm hot rodding around it spikes to 200 and I behave :toothless
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #10
Where can i run the 12v power lead from? Or what can i tack a wire onto...?
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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So in reality then, theres really no spot thats better than the other? I have a remote filter kit for my tranny sitting here waiting to be installed....i was thinking of putting my sensor there, but it seems like it would be too far away from the tranny to give a good reading.
I guess ill just put a Tee in on the way to the cooler.


Slightly offtopic.....for those of you that added a remote filter, did you put it on the outgoing (hot) line, or on the return line? I dont see it making a difference either way, just curious.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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well the battery comes to mind, but i think you should find something that only has power when the key is on like from the fuse block. dont you newer year guys have a fuse block in the motor area too? you may be able to tap that. if not you will have to run it from the one under the dash. you could find the terminal off the starter solenoid, if you have one, thats hot when the key is on.
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #13
I know there is a few wires under the dash that are 12v switched. Radio maybe? A guage in all reality isnt drawing that much current...What can i leech from? I would run to the fuse...But, Its only 1 gauge.
 

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Just grap voltage from the dash gauges you already have, get a wiring diagram :twak

I put my remote filter after the cooler on the return side. this way tyhe filter acts like a cooler as well :shug to a point. And the temp gauge is reading the fluid as it leaves the filter.

I also like sampling temp on the return side becasue if I break off a line, the gauge will drop soon after, which might give me a clue :shrug
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #15
Took a stab at it earlier...Nothing.

I know what i f^&ked up and am gonna give it another shot sometime saturday.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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do you have a light on the gauge? if so, tap the interioor light thats up under the dash so your gauge will dim as your interior lights do. if you go to the auto parts store, you will find fuse taps that you can use with a crimp on female blade terminal on the wire. you just gotta see what side of what fuse is key hot and not accessory hot. you can take it from the radio too. do you have a starter solenoid? there is a key hot terminal on them too i think. do you have a volt meter? Haynes has a wiring diagram in it. good luck.
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Discussion Starter #17
I just dont get it...Pretty much everything on my truck ive done or worked on so far. I narrowed the guage down to a bad sender, And didnt really like the electric one anyway, So i ordered an Autometer Mechanical Temp guages. From 140-280 degrees. Got it in, Bought all the fittings for the "T" and still wont budge from 140 after about 30 seconds at idle. Its almost 1am, And im to tired to go drive it around a while.

The probe isnt directly in the flow, But its maybe 1/8'' out. I dont need it to be to the degree, Just a general idea.. Am i gonna need to drill a hole into the pan and thread a fitting there? I know this seems to be the most accurate, But is it needed?
 
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