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Discussion Starter #1
Morning to all! I got my bronco running good. Still need to tweek the carb a bit. So yesterday I checked the transmission fluid while it was running and the level was fine but, the color was a tan or light brown color. II did some research and this is what I found on google:
Translucent (Light Brown)
The fluid is still in good condition and there is nothing to worry about. Just maintain the regular maintenance schedule and watch out for any leak. If you can take good care, the transmission is likely to survive until the vehicle鈥檚 lifespan. All you should do is to examine the fluid at regular intervals and follow the manufacturer鈥檚 servicing schedule.

I found a older post by Miesk on the forum that contradicts the above saying a fluid that color means you need to flush the transmission. So, do I need to flush/drain the transmission fluid or, is there nothing to worry about.
Thanks for all help
 

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If it were mine, I would change the fluid. A fluid change is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a trans.
 

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Yo Spencer,

As fflcfreak advised.

Following by Ford:
"
Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure.
Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
If fluid contamination or transmission failure is confirmed by further evidence of coolant or excessive particles in the transmission pan, the transmission must be disassembled and completely cleaned and serviced. This includes cleaning and flushing the torque converter and transmission cooling system. Repair or replace radiator."
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you Miesk and fflc. Could you possibly give me a link to a video or instructions on changing the trans fluid on 82 bronc automatic. It appears that it is not as simple as a oil change!
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Thank you Miesk and fflc. Could you possibly give me a link to a video or instructions on changing the trans fluid on 82 bronc automatic. It appears that it is not as simple as a oil change!
I assume it's a C6.

There is no drain plug on a c6, so you first pull the dipstick, then remove the 17 trans pan bolts. Remove the left and right side bolts completely. Then loosen the front bolts about an 1/8". Then remove all but one rear bolt. Hold the pan up, while removing that last bolt. Let the pan tip down, and drain into a bucket or catch pan. Finish removing the front pan bolts and lower the pan down. It will still have some fluid in it.

Inspect for debris or gunk buildup.

If no issues, slap a new pan gasket on and bolt the pan back on. Fill the trans through the dipstick tube. Pour an entire gallon in. Then start the bronco and let it get to operating temp. Manually shift through every gear, letting off the brake between each position. Put it back in park on level ground and check the fluid level. Slowly add by the pint until the fluid reaches the appropriate level. I wanna say 13-14 pints is what is required. But look that up definitely. After each pint, give it a minute to fully drain down before checking the level.

I had the lubelocker gasket and summit deep aluminum pan on my c6. They are quality parts.
 

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Yo Spencer,
As BIG advised.

FYI;
154416

C6 Description & Operation, Adjustments, Diagnosis & Testing (partial), Disassembly & Assembly, Parts Break-Out Diagram, Hydraulic Control System Diagram, Removal & Installation & Specifications @
Wayback Machine
 

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Should be a piece of cake. Without ever being inside a trans before, I did as described above, but also replaced the filter, which you should probably do as well. Didnt have any issues myself.
 

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Look at the chart above that Miesk posted. Second row. As soon as you drop the pan you will see it. It is plugged into the pump at the front of the transmission. If you change it, make sure the o-ring comes out of the pump with the old filter. Lube up the new filter o-ring with ATF and slide it in. That's it. Pretty simple.
 

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I've heard horrible things about flushing transmissions.
Most experts say "don't do it".
Just change the fluid and replace the filter.
I'm not a transmission expert, so I have no personal opinion.

But was the fluid brown or tan?
You want to ensure engine coolant didn't get mixed in with the tranny fluid.
They make special flashlights/goggles you can use with a coolant fluid add-in that lets you see the fluid. I think the kit was like $25-$40 on Amazon when I bought it a few months back.
 

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I agree with CZ Eddie. There is a big difference between a fluid change and a flush. I would avoid the flush. I know 2 people that have had tranny failures shortly (like less than a week) after getting their tranny flushed.

I've never changed the fluid in a C6, but I've done an E4OD and a 4R100 as described in this thread: 4R100 Automatic Transmission flush-pics and video - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums. I can't imaging a C6 is that much different since the E4OD and 4R100 are both based off a C6. This method is fairly easy and straight forward. Just note, that the C6 holds about 3 quarts less fluid than an E4OD.
 

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I had the lubelocker gasket and summit deep aluminum pan on my c6. They are quality parts.
I bought a TCI pan and Lubelocker gasket and also recommend them. I think you鈥檒l find the existing pan to be warped - I did on mine and fought with straightening for awhile till I broke down and bought a new one.

My crossmember covered up one bolt, so I had to find a 1/4鈥 1/4 drive socket and cut a small piece of 1/4 hex key to get that last socket head tightened up. Probably could rig up a regular or ratcheting box end to do the same.

The TCI pan filter was a different fit than stock. Memory is fuzzy, but you can figure it out, just give it an eyeball for a few.

Also a great time to replace the modulator.

Lasty, I have a small leak where the shifter linkage penetrates the tranny. It was hard to identify with the pan leaking like it was before. If you can identify any other leaks you have, it鈥檚 a great time to fix them.
 

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Yeah, I thought i was fixing the leak with my new pan and gasket. I also did a new modulator. Ran great, but kept leaking worse and worse. I'd refill the trans and back to normal. I eventually got tired of that and went to pull the trans. Found my leak. A pair of breaks in the case... no bueno.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just read everyones recent replies and first want to say thanks for all of the advice, thoughts and assistance!! Greatly appreciated!!! so my fluid color on the stick was a light tan color. The truck sat for 20 plus years outside so I thought maybe once I run it for a while everything will mix and it will be the correct color. I have not driven it yet at all. I thought maybe it was just a bit of water from the years outside with rain coming in through a dry rotted window seal. Its got a strong engine. I'll say that. It shifts pretty smoothly into each gear also. As a first timer doing all of this I don't want to jump in and just do things that were unneccessary. I'll have to sift thru all the info I just read as it gave me pause!!! Some of it I will have to google to see what it is!!! I will watch the video also and get back tomorrow. :Thanks you guys
 

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transmission fluid should be changed every 30k miles. Sounds like that one is past due. Walmart has cheap mercon in gallon for $12-14. Probably your best route.
 

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Yo,
"THE DANGER OF CHANGING THE ATF



I'm no slushbox expert, but this is how I understand it:

A) Starting with a good trans & the right fluid (NOT cheap generic stuff), over time, debris is generated in the trans due to normal wear & contamination. The fluid contains detergent additives that keep this debris suspended in the fluid until it can flow back to the filter to be removed.

B) But the fluid only contains SO MUCH detergent. So if it's not changed on-schedule, the debris doesn't get suspended, and it settles out all over the trans. But this alone doesn't cause any immediate problems, which is why so many people neglect the trans fluid for so long.

C) Eventually, someone realizes how old the fluid is, and changes it with fresh detergent-rich fluid. This begins to break up the deposits, but it also loosens large chunks, which can block up the valve body's fine passages & ports, causing MAJOR damage.

D) From what I've seen, there are 2 possible ways to avoid this damage:
1) rebuild the trans
2) change the filter & fluid once, using decent aftermarket ATF. It's also a good time to add the drain plug kit. Then drive 50-200 miles to break up most of the deposits. Then change the fluid & filter again, using MotorCraft Mercon. If the trans goes out after that, IT WAS GOING OUT ANYWAY. See option 1)." by Steve
 
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