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Discussion Starter #1
My transmission is not shifting out of first gear until i've driven it several blocks. My shift lever in the stearing column had a lot of play in it and I found there were a couple of bolts loose. They were tightened and that is fine now but when I went to drive off, the transmission still was not shifting. I turned around and went back and it was fine for the mechanic. He was thinking maybe the filter is getting clogged after sitting a while and it takes some driving to get it going. It's got 176000 miles on it and as far as I know (at least since 58k) the fluid or filter have never been changed. Anyone have any thoughts as to what this problem could be?

There are also times when i'm stopped at a light and it feels like it's going to stall out, but I think that's related to my alternator going out.

Thanks!

EDIT: when i'm at a light after first starting my car up (before it starts working normal) it feels like its going to stall out, but the air is off and the lights are off. If i put it in neutral, the RPMs go up and everything feels fine. When i'm driving It just sort of putters along and I can put my foot all the way down on the gas and nothing happens until a few seconds and then something finally catches and it takes off and starts working normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
EDIT2: It started kicking real hard when shifting gears (especially into second). Took it to the mechanic and he replaced the solonoid pack. Now it shifts smoother than ever, but still...when i start it up after it's sat a while, it wont get out of first gear until i've dropped the gas peddle for a little while then it finally catches. If i stop at a light right after, i have to repeat this process a couple of times before it finally resolves and drives fine the rest of the ride. My transmission fluid had never been changed before but it is bright pink and had no metal shavings or anything in it, and the mechanic said the transmission look fine. Could this be related to anything else??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
every now and then the check engine light comes on but it goes off within a minute. One time i was able to stop while it was still on and i tried to get the codes but it was clear. Started the car and the light was off again. I haven't tried running the engine on test though.
 

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penis
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Do that I can post a link if you like? Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there isn't a residual code stored in the system causing an issue.
 

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yo;
Good info by da!
run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first

For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site.
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"...residual code stored in the system causing an issue.."

here is da skinny from Ford:
There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and Key On Engine Running (KOER).

While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Self-Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output.

Self-Test Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse.

A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (111) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (111) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
OK, i swear i replied to this but it didn't post. Maybe i accidentally somewhere else. Here's what i got from codes...
KOER 173 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right side)

KOEO: Gave a 111 then...
624 - Electronic Pressure Control solenoid or driver circuit failure
637 - TOT sensor circuit above maximum voltage


And now my solonoid pack that was replaced Tuesday has gone bad again (first drive after pulling codes) and it's shifting real hard again. Any thoughts?
 

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yo;
For Now;
Check for connector /wiring corrosion
Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid:
Description: The Electronic Pressure Control solenoid is a variable force solenoid. The variable-force type solenoid is an electro-hydraulic actuator combining a solenoid and a regulating valve. It supplies electronic pressure control which regulates transmission line pressure and line modulator pressure. This is done by producing resisting forces to the main regulator and the line modulator circuits. These two pressures control clutch application pressures.
Symptoms: Failed on — minimum electronic pressure control pressure (minimum transmission torque capacity). Limit engine torque (partial fuel shut-off, heavy misfire). Flashing transmission control indicator lamp.
Failed off — maximum electronic pressure control pressure, harsh engagements and shifts. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 624,* 625,* P1746,* P1747.*
CAUTION: The electronic pressure control pressure output from the variable force solenoid is NOT adjustable. Any modification to the electronic pressure control solenoid will affect the transmission warranty. (*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition.)

Possible causes

Damaged harness connector.
Damaged EPC solenoid.
Damaged MLP sensor.
Intermittent harness continuity.
Damaged PCM connector pins.
Key off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, connect PCM.
Connect DVOM to test pins as indicated:
For EPC solenoid:
Connect one test lead to EPC signal pin and the other to EPC VPWR pin. Refer to cover page schematics per application for correct EPC test pin.
For MLP sensor:
Connect one test lead to MLP signal pin and the other test lead to Test Pin 46. Refer to cover page schematics per application for correct MLP test pin.
Key on, engine off.
Observe DVOM display for indication of a fault while performing the following:
Note: In either case, the voltage should remain steady (less than 10.0 volts for the EPC and less than 5.0 volts for the MLP with vehicle in PARK). A changing voltage or one greater than expected is an indication of a fault.

Shake, wiggle and bend the component harness.
Lightly tap on the component connector to simulate a road shock.


F-Series/E-Series/Bronco (E4OD)
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/vra06115.htm#vra06tgschem


Please Verify diagrams with those in my site under Electircal - Sensor - MLPS,,, I can't open another browser to do that now
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637 - TOT sensor circuit above maximum voltage

Possible causes:
-- Damaged TOT sensor.
-- Open harness circuit(s).
-- Damaged processor.
or the transmission was overheated

Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor:
Description: The transmission fluid temperature sensor is located on the solenoid body assembly in the transmission sump. It is a temperature-sensitive device called a thermistor. The resistance value of the transmission fluid temperature sensor will vary with temperature change. The powertrain control module monitors voltage across the transmission fluid temperature sensor to determine the temperature of the transmission fluid. The powertrain control module uses this signal to determine whether a cold start shift schedule is necessary. The cold start shift schedule lowers shift speeds to allow for the reduced performance of cold engine operation. The powertrain control module also uses the transmission fluid temperature sensor input to adjust electronic pressure control pressure for temperature effects and inhibit torque converter clutch operation during the warm-up period.
Symptoms: Torque converter clutch and stabilized shift schedule happens too soon after a cold start. Codes P1783 or 657 indicate transmission fluid temperature exceeds 132°C (270° F), results in increased EPC pressure and torque converter clutch engagement. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 636, 637, 638, 657, P0712, P0713, P1711, P1783.


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DTC 173 Short CKT, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

SEE S and 14
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470456/original/tsb950211shorts.jpg

So far, 3 to 5 pals here have had this Short & repaired it his way;

tsb950521-hegofusee.jpg | Hits: 996 | Posted on: 6/23/08 | View original size (41.42 KB)


TSB 95-5-21 Fuse "E" Inoperative - ABS Light On - Back-Up Lamps Inoperative - DRLs Inoperative - MIL On - Speedometer Inoperative
Publication Date: MARCH 13, 1995

LIGHT TRUCK: 1992-1995 BRONCO, F-150-350 SERIES

ISSUE: On some vehicles the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions:
ABS light on
Speedometer inoperative
Back-up lamps inoperative
Daytime running lamps inoperative
Trailer battery charge relay inoperative
MIL on, displaying Codes: 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S failure
Inadvertent PCM Self-Test

ACTION: Replace the damaged wire harness and HO2S sensor. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the solenoid terminal and positive battery cable from the starter.
3. Pull the cable downward to inspect the 12A690 harness for chafing, pinholes, etc. If necessary, remove the convolute and tape from the 12A690 harness located next to the lower RH side engine mount.
4. If the 12A690 harness is damaged, replace the 14B060 assembly (F5TZ-14300-EA) and the HO2S sensor (F4UZ-9F472-A).
5. Inspect Fuse "E" and replace if necessary (D9ZZ-14526-D).
6. Clear all codes stored in memory.
7. Retest and verify the concern has been resolved.

PART NUMBER - PART NAME
D9ZZ-14526-D Fuse - 15 Amp
F5TZ-14300-EA Harness Assembly
F4UZ-9F472-A HO2S Sensor

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION - DESCRIPTION - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - TIME
950521A - - - - - Replace Harness Assembly, HO2S Sensor And Fuse "E" (If Overloaded) - 0.7 Hr.


& BY Ryan M (Fireguy50;
DTC 41, 42, 91, 92, 136, 137,139, 144, 171, 172, 175, 176, 177 & some Possible Causes for Rich & Lean HEGO The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature
All of the following items will cause a HEGO code:
• Check engine oil for fuel contamination.
• Check fuel pressure.
• Check fuel systems ability to hold pressure for 60 seconds.
• Engines general condition.
• Fuel injectors (leaky, stuck, dirty).
• Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system.
• PCV / Hose stuck or blocked.
• Vacuum leaks.
• Fuel Injector O-Rings.
• CANP.
• MAP/MAF sensor.
• Ignition Coil Failure.
• Wiring harness general condition.
• Old HEGO sensors (should be replaced every 60,000 miles).

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dang! Thanks for all that info!! I haven't had a chance to process it all or look into it yet, but i do have an update. I took my car back to the mechanic to get my money back for the new solonoid pack that had gone bad. Well they put the old one in and it is working just fine now...it's shifting gears without any jerks (still has the original stalling/trouble accelerating at startup problem). I'm thinking the hard shifting is a bad connection problem in one of the wiring harnesses maybe? I know there's a lot of salt water i used to go through around here...i'm right off the coast(lots of humidity). Not sure if that helps. I'll look into the rest of your suggestions this week. Thanks again!!
 

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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Stalling problems, shifting problems with the E4OD, sounds like you got a bad TPS.

Test your throttle position sensor (TPS), sounds like its faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys...sorry i have had zero free time to dive into any diagnostics on this but I have noticed one thing. If I start the car, it will idle at about 1k for about 10seconds then drop to it's propper(normal) idle of about 700RPM. There it will idle fine but the car will shake a good bit. Some times it will idle down to about 200 but if i tap the gas it will rev up over 1k and then back to 700. This has been rare. Usually it will just sit at 700 shaking and then within a minute it will rev up to about 1100RPM for a second or two then go back down to 700 and the shaking stops and the car will drive perfectly. Not sure if this info sheds light on anything. Thanks for the tips! I should have some time this saturday to do some investigating.
 

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transmission not shifting

this is going to sound half weird....

Same thing here. Lots of fooling around but, here was the fix.

Pulled transmission pan to change fluid and filter. The filter was laying in the bottom of the pan. Transmission was over-serviced due to the nature of the pick-up with the filter. That was almost "half" the problem.

Now here's the weird part...the fan clutch. Yes, the fan clutch. Replace it about 2 days later and boom...new transmission. Can actually hear the Turbomatic whirr...........nice sound.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Hey guys...sorry i have had zero free time to dive into any diagnostics on this but I have noticed one thing. If I start the car, it will idle at about 1k for about 10seconds then drop to it's propper(normal) idle of about 700RPM. There it will idle fine but the car will shake a good bit. Some times it will idle down to about 200 but if i tap the gas it will rev up over 1k and then back to 700. This has been rare. Usually it will just sit at 700 shaking and then within a minute it will rev up to about 1100RPM for a second or two then go back down to 700 and the shaking stops and the car will drive perfectly. Not sure if this info sheds light on anything. Thanks for the tips! I should have some time this saturday to do some investigating.
sounds like you got a vacuum leak on the engine too, maybe needing a tune-up to if it's misfiring, maybe not. check for vac leaks too. check the tps like sackman said. and your trans fluid should be a bright red, NOT pink. if it's pink that means water got in it.
 

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Side step it
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Check the speed sensor, less than $20.00, in the rear diff too! The E4OD transmissions have the problem with the filter slipping down into the pan and have a clip your can buy from "P.A.T.C. Speed Shop" (888) 201-2066 $6.00 plus $9.00 shipping....Worth it to do either way! :thumbup -Kevin-
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the feedback guys...The transmission fluid was changed when they replaced and then re-replaced the solonoid pack. I'm only assuming if the filter had slipped they would have fixed that. Especially when the guy said that was something he was going to look at (with respect to it getting clogged) but you never know. Bri Guy...sorry, i guess it was more of a bright red than pink and was pretty close to the same as the new fluid that's in there now. I'll see what i can find saturday.

I do know i have a coolant leak at the waterpump gasket and looks like also by the thermostat. But I've had these leaks for a while now (before this problem started). I don't "think" they've gotten worse.
 

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1991 E4od Not shifting into 3rd ear

On a hot day going about 50 I pushed down the accelerator to down shift . I haeard aloud pop and the engine reved up and Ii saw a puff of smoke .
Now it will not shift into 3rd and if I drice it long enough the fluid seeps or comes out onto the exhaust. I get a code 10 no other codes.
Any suggestions?
 

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e4od not shifting; found the problem

I found the connector to the sol pack had come loose.
I now have a burnt smell to the fluid. I will change it.
Should I be worried about antthinng else?
 

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I found the connector to the sol pack had come loose.
I now have a burnt smell to the fluid. I will change it.
Should I be worried about antthinng else?
=
yo!
Hopefully the tranny is still ok. Change fluid.
I suggest you pull codes; as dabranco wrote; "Here is the link for the OP of how I pulled codes ..."
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177509
...
.
.
run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first

For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site.
--
 

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autx790 In your original post are you saying the tranny fluid was not changed for 126,000 miles? If that is the case, I am no expert but in most cases when you do change the fluid after so long it seems like the transmission goes soon after. The old fluid has so much friction material in it it works ok. Just a thought.
 
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