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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
OK Guys,

I was wondering if someone can help me out with this.
I have 5" of lift in the front and a little over 3 in the rear... as the truck sits now, its level. i don't want to go any higher or lower, the height is perfect for me. Anyways, I’m having a bump steer issue. Everything under the front end is brand new... I mean everything (except the steering pump), but i'm still getting the bump steer. i have tried moving the pivot points from the 4" lift location to the 6", then back again with no change. i've had it aligned where everything was balls on, still same problem. i've tried changing the caster and camber both directions, and you guessed it, same problem. Although the bump steer was a little better when i gave it more positive camber, but it's still an issue. Like i said, everything is brand new and i have checked and double checked for any kind of play in the front end at all. There is none. To be fair, the steering box has to be replaced again. It's only 3 months old from Ford and i started getting play in it, so i brought it back and they said they would replace it. Is it possible this would cause the bump steer? I was thinking about doing the TRE flip to the top, but wasn't sure if it was high enough to do this along with the 4” drop pitman arm. If you look at the picture, the red is where the TRE's are now and the green is the approximate location they would be with the flip. They would pretty much be straight across, maybe even a slight angle down from the ends to the center.
If anyone has any suggestions on what might be causing the bump steer, if i should move the pivot points to the 4 or 6 inch location on the lift and if i can do the TRE flip, i would greatly appreciate any info you might have.
Thanks
have

 

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The Anti Yam!
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If you look at the picture, the red is where the TRE's are now and the green is the approximate location they would be with the flip.

I think you got this backwards, but yea. As close to flat as you can get is the best you can do.

Factory style TTB will always have some bump steer because the tie rods/draglinks are not the same length as the beams.

The only way to completely eliminate it is swing set steering $$$$$$$
(Or an SAS)
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #5
I think you got this backwards, but yea. As close to flat as you can get is the best you can do.

Factory style TTB will always have some bump steer because the tie rods/draglinks are not the same length as the beams.

The only way to completely eliminate it is swing set steering $$$$$$$
(Or an SAS)
You're right gacknar' I have it backwards...

Anyone out there have the reamer I need for sale? I hate to pay 100 bucks for something I'm only going to use this once. I'd rather buy it from someone out there with the same intent, and keep it going.

I can't really afford a new swing setup, I just dumped a ton of cash on this one:doh0715:
 

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The Anti Yam!
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I can't really afford a new swing setup, I just dumped a ton of cash on this one:doh0715:
Yea, swingset steering will run you back several thousand dollars...Unless you can built it yourself.
 

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You're right gacknar' I have it backwards...

Anyone out there have the reamer I need for sale? I hate to pay 100 bucks for something I'm only going to use this once. I'd rather buy it from someone out there with the same intent, and keep it going.

I can't really afford a new swing setup, I just dumped a ton of cash on this one:doh0715:
You dont necessarily have to get a reamer... You could use these awesome inserts from RuffStuff, but you would have to get 1 ton TRE's because the stock 1/2 ton bronco TRE's are much to small to fit in there.

TRE Insert: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html

You just drill a 7/8" hole and drop em in :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You dont necessarily have to get a reamer... You could use these awesome inserts from RuffStuff,

ut you would have to get 1 ton TRE's because the stock 1/2 ton bronco TRE's are much to small to fit in there.

TRE Insert: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html

You just drill a 7/8" hole and drop em in :thumbup
But those are tapered as well, wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose? Otherwise I could just drill a hole for the 1/2 ton bushings from BC and keep the tre's I have...
Right.?.
 

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But those are tapered as well, wouldn't that defeat the whole purpose? Otherwise I could just drill a hole for the 1/2 ton bushings from BC and keep the tre's I have...
Right.?.
Yes, those are tapered to fit 1 ton TRE's. It saves from having to spend $70 on a reamer... the INSIDE of that insert is taperd to fit the TRE, but the OUTSIDE is not tapered, this is why you just drill a 7/8" hole with a regular old 7/8" drill bit then slide the insert in there. No reaming required.


And on the BC bronco's ones... Those are the same ones that JBG sells. Those are tapered on the inside and outside. So you still have to use a reamer... But also, you HAVE to use those when you do a TRE flip with a reamer anyways, other wise the the TRE hole will be an hourglass shape.

Landshark99 has a good write up on his TTB TRE flip. Look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, those are tapered to fit 1 ton TRE's. It saves from having to spend $70 on a reamer... the INSIDE of that insert is taperd to fit the TRE, but the OUTSIDE is not tapered, this is why you just drill a 7/8" hole with a regular old 7/8" drill bit then slide the insert in there. No reaming required.


And on the BC bronco's ones... Those are the same ones that JBG sells. Those are tapered on the inside and outside. So you still have to use a reamer... But also, you HAVE to use those when you do a TRE flip with a reamer anyways, other wise the the TRE hole will be an hourglass shape.

Landshark99 has a good write up on his TTB TRE flip. Look it up.
Awwwww... that makes sense. Thought they were tapered on the outsie as well.
I read landshark99's write up, along with many others. That's why I decided to go with the 7 degree reamer and the BC inserts.

Thanks
 

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Yea, swingset steering will run you back several thousand dollars...Unless you can built it yourself.
Sas really isn't in my future but as far a the TRE flip goes would you consider this for a stock suspension? If not, how much lift would you say you'd have to have to make this a necessary fix?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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other wise the the TRE hole will be an hourglass shape.
Lots of folks including me run that way with no problems.

as far a the TRE flip goes would you consider this for a stock suspension?
No, stock the TRE/drag links should be almost parallel. TRE flip would take them out of parallel, the exact opposite of what you want.

If not, how much lift would you say you'd have to have to make this a necessary fix?
Depends on what Pittman arm is used.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Update:
I did the tre flip and the bump steer is gone, but I still had the memory steer. I relocated the sway bar 1" forward and flipped the dogbones so now the sway bar sitsabove instead of below to clear the shocks. Replaced the ball joint again, but this time I boughta new torque wrench and set the torque correct. I was able to push and pull the knuckles withone finger, but still had memory steer. Brought the truck back to Ford and theyreplaced the sreeing box. No more memory steer and the truckdrove straight down the road, but it does feel like the steering still has play in it. It also feels as if its swaying. I'm not really sure how to describe it, its almost like the front end is moving side to side, like its not locked in, kind of like its teetering on blocks. Everything under the front is brand new, I mean EVERYTHING! They adjusted the toe and here is what the settings were.

Drivers side:
camber -0.3 specified range -0.3 to +0.8
Caster +4.9 specified range +2.0 to +6.0

Passenger side:
Camber -0.1 specified range -0.3 to +0.8
Caster +6.4 specified range +2.0 to +6.0

Cross:
Cross camber -0.2 specified range -0.4 to +0.4
Cross caster -1.6 specified range -0.9 to -0.1

So I adjusted the bushings to:
Driver side:
Camber +0.2 specified range -0.3 to +0.8
Caster +4.9 specified range +2.0 to +6.0
Passenger side:
Camber +0.15 specified range -0.3 to +0.8
Caster +4.9 specified range +2.0 to +6.0

This should make the
cross camber +0.05 specified range -0.4 to +0.4
And cross caster 0.00 specified range -0.9 to -0.1

It still feels like its swaying or teetering on blocks and pulling to the right a little now. Are these the write settings I should have? Can someone please help me out here. I know this is not normal behavior. I used to have a 96 with 11"of lift and 39" tire and never had this much problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Maybe i'm wrong about the bump steer. I thought bump steer was when you hit a bump in the road, the truck would turn in one direction or the other... Is this right? My truck no longer does this with the tre flip, but it does the above mentioned. it kind of feels like ( in the steering wheel) it's rolling over bumps. it does not turn, but it feels like it wants to. Am i completely wrong on this and now i have bump steer? Someone please help.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Everything under the front is brand new, I mean EVERYTHING!
Including the beam pivot bushings?

Take a picture of your TRE/Draglink, similar to this one.



So we can see what your angles look like.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes... The pivot bussings are 4 months old
Here is a pic of the front how it sits now.
Thanks
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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you are never going to get the tie rods flatter than that.

interesting how you have the steering stabilizers facing each other, i've always seen them running in the same direction like Gacknar's picture above.

have you tried driving it with them off?
 

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Bingo! That's why you are still having steering problems....

It's because of the way you have your stabilizers mounted! Just take off the driver's side one and it will be much better...

Also, the stabilizers should be mounted to the chassis, not the axle. Since the steering rod's are slightly a different length than the axle arm's, the stabilizers are actually creating your bump steer.
 
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