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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm trying to figure out how to address my trimmed fenders. In addition to the lost rigidity, the way they're cut is allowing dirt and crap to get thrown up into the inner wheel wells, particularly in the back. One option is obviously to bite the bullet and just buy flares, but I'm not sure that's what I want to do. Looking for any and all suggestion realizing that the best may not be the least expensive.

This is what my rig looked like before the trim..I had 36 inch iroks on at the time.



here is what it looked like after the trimming..This became necessary when I stepped up to 37 inch M16's, there was even less clearance. My front tires were already too close to the fender wall, so any major compression was going to cause the two to meet...which it did in an unfortunate incident about a year ago..

This was the crunched drivers side..



the good side..



you can see where the plastic inner fender is all hacked up..the shop had to trim them and rig a brackets along the front to hold them in place to the fender.

some other shots..









You get the idea..



this is the back...







This is what it looks like up inside the rear inner fender, you can see where rust has already started to form on the tub.





On a side note, this area down by the wheel well is where a couple of the body panels come together. There was some sort of red foam in there from the factory that had pretty much deteriorated. Any time I would drive in the rain is would throw water up through this hole..



This is a shot looking at it from the outside in the wheel well.



Got a can of this marine sealant foam



and it's sealed.




The drivers side plastic fender was so hacked and time I got in mud it would throw it all over the engine bay...

Got this rubber matting and was able to pop rivet it to the inside of the plastic innner..



Went from this..


to this...



For the front fenders, I was thinking of using a sawzall and cutting them another inch around the edge, then folding them over so I could have a lip, and then then maybe use that rubber matting to fill in the gap..thoughts?
 

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North Florida offroad hacked up your bronco? To fix your fenders and make them rigid. Get some 1/4" diameter cold roll stock and form them to your wheel well and weld them in. Had they cut the fender properly they'd of left 2" to roll under and make the fender look almost factory and provided a mounting surface for the inner fender instead of bolting L brackets...

For the rear your going to have to get some 16 ga sheet metal and fill the gaps.
 

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78 & 92
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Really like the above idea and this would be my choice, May even add some tube to it and make it sort of like a removable jeep fender in appearance.
Do you have more pictures of the underside of that bonsai dave?
I plan on doing something like this to my 78 eventually
 

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Discussion Starter #5
North Florida offroad hacked up your bronco? To fix your fenders and make them rigid. Get some 1/4" diameter cold roll stock and form them to your wheel well and weld them in. Had they cut the fender properly they'd of left 2" to roll under and make the fender look almost factory and provided a mounting surface for the inner fender instead of bolting L brackets...

For the rear your going to have to get some 16 ga sheet metal and fill the gaps.
No it wasn't North Florida Bronco..the shop that did it does pretty good work, but they do mostly jeeps..guess I should have thought it through a little more before just having them cut the fenders..

If I can cut the front fenders another inch and roll them over that should give me enough work with. I like the idea about using the cold roll to add rigidity to it.

The back should be a lot easier. I know there were inner plastic fenders there before, but with the fenders being cut, I lost all the mounting for them as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
JBG has these for about $200 bucks a pair front and rear, I just don't really care for the smooth look..




I personally like the look of these better, and I've seen a thread where someone made these work on his later model.

 

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JBG has these for about $200 bucks a pair front and rear, I just don't really care for the smooth look..




I personally like the look of these better, and I've seen a thread where someone made these work on his later model.

Being a northeast wheeler you're in a lot of trees and woods I would tair those flairs right off first time out that's why I built my own.
try that with those plastic flairs I'm 6' 235# there is no deflection at all.
 

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Really like the above idea and this would be my choice, May even add some tube to it and make it sort of like a removable jeep fender in appearance.
Do you have more pictures of the underside of that bonsai dave?
I plan on doing something like this to my 78 eventually
Here are a few
this is the back with the inner fender
. This is the front
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, it's 6 years later but I'm finally getting around to addressing the fenders..Guess there was a silver lining in having to work from home through this COVID-19 thing..Anyway, I started on the back first since that was going to be the easiest..I freehanded some lines and started cutting..Initially I used my dremel but that was taking way too long so I switched over to the 4 inch angle grinder..

started with this..

155799


I probably made the opening a little larger than it needed to be but who cares it will work and if I ever get bigger tires down the road there will be plenty of room...

Used my welding pliers to bend the fenders in..paint started flaking off, no big deal since I'm planning to do a driveway paint job and re-do the b-pillars..

155800


After I got everything cut and sanded down..they still needed to be folded a little flatter in order to get the cold stock I'm going to weld on to seat..

155801


Not bad for an amateur..
155802


155803


Drivers side. cuts were a little bit off so the opening on this side is just a little bigger..

155804


155805


155806


Front is definitely going to be a little more tricky. I'm planning to start on that over the weekend. Still not 100% sure what I'm going to use to close the gap, maybe aluminum or some sort of universal fender liner..either way, I feel like it will be 100 times better than it is..just folding that metal in has already added a bunch more rigidity back to the fenders..stay tuned.
 

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Could always add another strip of steel all the way around and weld it on. Would be ultra strong. Then you can get some bed reinforcement brackets from newer trucks and bolt them on to keep everything nice and solid. I'd try painters tape on the front so you can get a consistent cut all the way around the fender. I know perfection isn't that important but if you can why not. Maybe even paint the bottom 2-3 inches and around the arches with bedliner to cover imprfections and protect the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Could always add another strip of steel all the way around and weld it on. Would be ultra strong. Then you can get some bed reinforcement brackets from newer trucks and bolt them on to keep everything nice and solid. I'd try painters tape on the front so you can get a consistent cut all the way around the fender. I know perfection isn't that important but if you can why not. Maybe even paint the bottom 2-3 inches and around the arches with bedliner to cover imprfections and protect the metal.
I'm planning on adding some flat stock to where it's folded..that will put my welding skills to the test for sure..hadn't thought about using that painters tape, that's a good suggestion and so is using the bedliner..that might actually look pretty good.
 

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I would have probably used 1/2 round stock, bent to shape. What size flat stock are you using? I rue the day one of my bushwacker cutouts get smashed.
 

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I am jealous, wish I had that little rust and some time off from work. I am gonna be working lots of overtime the next few weeks.
I cut my fenders just like you just did when got 40's. I ended up not needed to weld in any flat stock to the new lip. Seemed pretty solid with out it. I did end up cutting up a blue h20 barrel to make new fender wells. Worked pretty easy since it already has a round contour. Cheap spray can black undercoating seems to stick well to the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would have probably used 1/2 round stock, bent to shape. What size flat stock are you using? I rue the day one of my bushwacker cutouts get smashed.
1 inch, 12 gauge. Figured the flat stock would be easier to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am jealous, wish I had that little rust and some time off from work. I am gonna be working lots of overtime the next few weeks.
I cut my fenders just like you just did when got 40's. I ended up not needed to weld in any flat stock to the new lip. Seemed pretty solid with out it. I did end up cutting up a blue h20 barrel to make new fender wells. Worked pretty easy since it already has a round contour. Cheap spray can black undercoating seems to stick well to the plastic.
Hey Alan..I'm sure you've been busy..you and the family doing ok??

While the wheel wells are in good shape, the cab corners and b-pillars are getting pretty rough..once I get this tackled, that's next..
 

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1 inch, 12 gauge. Figured the flat stock would be easier to work with.
It is. The wider the metal the harder to bend it to the right shape. Flat stock shouldn't be too hard, and it will make a nice lip to bolt a liner to. Ive never met someone in Florida with as many cab corner and B piller issues as you. Except maybe James but if that's the case he's not very concerned about it.
 

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Hey Alan..I'm sure you've been busy..you and the family doing ok??

While the wheel wells are in good shape, the cab corners and b-pillars are getting pretty rough..once I get this tackled, that's next..
Family is good, I hope all has been well in your home as well.
Sawzall took care of my rusted out cab corners, doors and rear fenders. Cut about 4" out from the back of the front wheel well all the way to the rear bumper. Was cheaper than the weld in repair panels but not near as pretty. If I remember right, your truck was pretty straight. Might be worth the time and effort to fix any rust correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is. The wider the metal the harder to bend it to the right shape. Flat stock shouldn't be too hard, and it will make a nice lip to bolt a liner to. Ive never met someone in Florida with as many cab corner and B piller issues as you. Except maybe James but if that's the case he's not very concerned about it.
Still not sure exactly what sort of liner I'm going to use, but that should be the easy part once I have a good surface to mount it to..I know my cab corners suck, a big part of that is running a soft top year round and have wheeled it as much as I do..every time that frame flexes those corners are stressed..nothing I can do about it..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Family is good, I hope all has been well in your home as well.
Sawzall took care of my rusted out cab corners, doors and rear fenders. Cut about 4" out from the back of the front wheel well all the way to the rear bumper. Was cheaper than the weld in repair panels but not near as pretty. If I remember right, your truck was pretty straight. Might be worth the time and effort to fix any rust correctly.
Glad to hear it..We're doing good as well..kids are growing up fast...

Straight is a relative term..I've got some dings here and there, the front fenders in particular got a bit crunched closest to the cab but it doesn't really bother me..I mainly want to get it cleaned up so it doesn't look like a total beater..I laugh every time I get a compliment from someone saying great looking Bronco..I'm thinking are we looking at the same vehicle??

Over the last couple of months I've found myself looking at old Fox body Mustangs. Thinking I'd get rid of the Bronco and start a new project, but I can't bring myself to do it..every time I hop in the Bronco and go for a ride it puts a smile on my face..
 

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Glad to hear it..We're doing good as well..kids are growing up fast...

Straight is a relative term..I've got some dings here and there, the front fenders in particular got a bit crunched closest to the cab but it doesn't really bother me..I mainly want to get it cleaned up so it doesn't look like a total beater..I laugh every time I get a compliment from someone saying great looking Bronco..I'm thinking are we looking at the same vehicle??

Over the last couple of months I've found myself looking at old Fox body Mustangs. Thinking I'd get rid of the Bronco and start a new project, but I can't bring myself to do it..every time I hop in the Bronco and go for a ride it puts a smile on my face..
You're allowed to have more than one toy. Wish I realized that sooner.
 
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