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Discussion Starter #21
As much as I'd like to have more than one, I've only got so much spare time and then there's the lack of space...On top of that I'm not even using the Bronco as much any more.

Got started on the passenger front quarter this weekend. The way the fender is sandwiched in spots makes it more difficult to work with than the rear..wound up making the cuts on the outer part of the fender then folding them out and cutting the inner..I was using the angle grinding but it was tough getting it positioned right to get a clean cut on the inside. I may try my sawzall to clean it up..

The fender liner cut relatively easily with a heavy duty box cutter..

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Discussion Starter #22
All 4 corners are in various states..The front is definitely going to be the toughest..Started on the passenger front..

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Passenger rear, this one is furthest along.
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Drivers side rear..need to hit this with some primer..
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Drivers front..not as far long as the other ones. Going to use this opportunity to touch up the paint in a few areas and make it a little more presentable..
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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Finally got done with the trimming, busted a few sawzall blades on the front but it's as good as it's going to get. Next step will be to reinforce the new lip and figure out how to make a new liner. The more I look at the lip, I'm thinking the metal stock might give me some problems with the way the fender curves. For the liner, I've got a couple options, either a section of aluminum sheeting trimmed down and fastened to the remaining liner or this heavy duty rubber matting I have left from another project. At this point I should probably just work out a template with some posted board so I'm not wasting anything.

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while I was at it, I decided to R&R the rain gutters and b-pillars again..ground them out, treated with rustoleum primer then seam sealer over top..not perfect but once I get it covered with paint, it will be good enough for me..I just ordered rust encapsalator from Eastwood that has a special spray nozzle so you can get inside tight spaces..Planning to spray the hell out of the inside of the b-pillar..

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There's a bunch of methods I've made up for forming metal, but the wider it is the harder it will be to get a curve in there. If you drill holes in the inside of the B piller to spray I have rubber plugs you can use to close them back up. At this point I'm starting to think you need a cage to stop those cracks.
 

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I have looked at trailer fenders at the local farm store for finishing off a cut like this. The price is decent and was thick enough to be strong but thin enough to be workable. It also had nice finished-ish edge already which could maybe be like a small flare.
 

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Ha! Mine are just hacked and opened, now you've got me thinking I need to do some reworking! I like the trailer fender idea too.... Hmmmmmm
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Back in the day, we used to cut the fender lip off about 2" higher, than once we cut it off, we would cut in half right in the middle. Then we would spread it apart to where we had a good wheel opening and weld it back on. Then we would just fab up a piece to fill in the void in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
There's a bunch of methods I've made up for forming metal, but the wider it is the harder it will be to get a curve in there. If you drill holes in the inside of the B piller to spray I have rubber plugs you can use to close them back up. At this point I'm starting to think you need a cage to stop those cracks.
Yeah, and the imperfection of the curve makes it harder..To start with, I'm going to try doing the back seems like it will be the easiest..fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it I've already got holes going into the b-pillar from where the soft top mounts attach. would be a good idea to close those up so I'll take you up on grabbing a few of those plugs.

I've thought about a cage many times, and it probably would help with the cracks..just can't justify spending the $$ on one right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I have looked at trailer fenders at the local farm store for finishing off a cut like this. The price is decent and was thick enough to be strong but thin enough to be workable. It also had nice finished-ish edge already which could maybe be like a small flare.
Was digging around in my attic and found this stuff..PVC painted aluminum. It's almost like flashing, figure I could make a template and cut the shape out..I've got plenty of it..If this doesn't work, I may give the trailer fender a shot..

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Ha! Mine are just hacked and opened, now you've got me thinking I need to do some reworking! I like the trailer fender idea too.... Hmmmmmm
Tired of all the mud and crap getting up inside the fender walls every time I go on ride..this will keep that stuff where it's suppose to be..

Back in the day, we used to cut the fender lip off about 2" higher, than once we cut it off, we would cut in half right in the middle. Then we would spread it apart to where we had a good wheel opening and weld it back on. Then we would just fab up a piece to fill in the void in the middle.
I can picture what you're talking about, but that's a lot of welding..trying to get by doing as little of it as I can..
 

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That stuff is likely very similar to what we use for gutters. Should be easy to cut with shears, an angle grinder will also make quick work but leaves a more ragged edge. Main downside is it tends to dent easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That stuff is likely very similar to what we use for gutters. Should be easy to cut with shears, an angle grinder will also make quick work but leaves a more ragged edge. Main downside is it tends to dent easily.
Not really worried about dents. Figured it would work ok..even if I paint it with some of that rubberized rustoleum stuff it should last long enough..I've got a pair of crappy air shears I bought a while ago from harbor freight..need something more like this..

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I have a set of air shears, they're nice for about 30 seconds before the compressor runs out of air. Aluminum will corrode if left full of constantly wet mud or leaves but if allowed to dry will go 10-20 years without any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have a set of air shears, they're nice for about 30 seconds before the compressor runs out of air. Aluminum will corrode if left full of constantly wet mud or leaves but if allowed to dry will go 10-20 years without any issues.
I figure I'll treat the aluminum with some of that rubberized rustoleum spray,,if I have to reapply ever couple of years no big dal..
 

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Discussion Starter #34
This has turned into a bit more of a project than just the fenders..decided it was time refresh the grill and clean up the paint around the front..I've got a couple cans of YO (Oxford white) so I'm going to do some sanding and touch up, doesn't need to be perfect, just good from far...The order I placed with Eastwood showed up this morning, I'll use some of the rust encapsalator on the frame rails. They've got some surface rust, not bad but they look like crap.

Also pulled the s**ty winch line, an Amazon special synthetic..In hindsight I should have spent the money to begin with and gotten a quality rope..The one I ordered is from Masterpull..not cheap but way better and it's the right size..

It's amazing once I started digging into things, I found dirt in almost every nook and cranny..guess I shouldn't be surprised....It's going to look a lot better when I'm done..Then I'll order a new soft top..

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This has turned into a bit more of a project than just the fenders..decided it was time refresh the grill and clean up the paint around the front..I've got a couple cans of YO (Oxford white) so I'm going to do some sanding and touch up, doesn't need to be perfect, just good from far...The order I placed with Eastwood showed up this morning, I'll use some of the rust encapsalator on the frame rails. They've got some surface rust, not bad but they look like crap.

Also pulled the s**ty winch line, an Amazon special synthetic..In hindsight I should have spent the money to begin with and gotten a quality rope..The one I ordered is from Masterpull..not cheap but way better and it's the right size..

It's amazing once I started digging into things, I found dirt in almost every nook and cranny..guess I shouldn't be surprised....It's going to look a lot better when I'm done..Then I'll order a new soft top..

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Do the softtoppers go bad with time?


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Discussion Starter #36
Do the softtoppers go bad with time?


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I probably should have been more diligent in keeping it clean and treating it, but 5 years in the Florida sun does a number on a soft top..the fabric especially the top will start getting crunchy over time.
 

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I probably should have been more diligent in keeping it clean and treating it, but 5 years in the Florida sun does a number on a soft top..the fabric especially the top will start getting crunchy over time.
Can you get just a new shell or do you have to repurchase the whole thing? Been meaning to get one but spending 1k on a top just for it to last just 5 years...


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Discussion Starter #38
Can you get just a new shell or do you have to repurchase the whole thing? Been meaning to get one but spending 1k on a top just for it to last just 5 years...


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yeah, a new canopy is $500 (including shipping, non-tinted window), so once you have the hardware that's not that bad..
 

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Discussion Starter #39
close up of the frame rail rust..
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This is the stuff I'm going to use on it and also inside the b-pillars..

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Mine looked like that. I just used rustoleum. That was a few years back. Still looks great. Of course it was surface rusted for like 10 years.
 
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