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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 86 FSB with 302 and Automatic Transmission.

Lately, it has been having difficulties starting once the engine gets up to normal operating temperature.

It starts on the first crank when it is cold, but when the engine is warm it will turn over for an extended period of time and not start.

After about 3 seconds of just turning over and not starting, I will turn the key off and then immediately try to start it again it. Normally it will start on the second try if I do it quickly. If I wait a few seconds, it just turns over and never catches.

I ran the codes and the are all 11's across the board.

I am thinking that starter is beginning to fail, but just wanted to get ideas from those with more knowledge before I started chasing gremlins with my limited knowledge.

Thanks
 

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Never ending project
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It sounds like your starter is working could be a number of things like coil fuel regulator injectors fuel pump vapor lock ignition switch you have to trouble shout those things otherwise your gust guessing:thumbup​
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Well he said he pulles codes and got all 11's so it's sounds like EFI to me.

Sounds like the TFI module. Before buying a new one take the old one off and have it tested. Most parts stores will test it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is EFI, so thanks for letting my know I should refer to it as a 5.0L when asking questions.

I don't run headers.

I will have the TFI module tested. I appreciate the suggestion. I will let you konw if that checks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Steve83 said:
You can test it yourself with a $10 multimeter & the instructions in a $14 Haynes manual. It takes ~20 minutes depending on how well you understand what you're doing & how quickly the problem turns up, but it's pretty easy to do & VERY effective at finding the fault.
I have both of those. So I will read up on it and see if I can figure it out. Thanks for the info

Plus, I read on fordfuelinjection.com that testing TFI modules does not work on failing modules anyway. Testing will only give you a working/not working determination and failing but still fuctioning units must produce a working result. And If the problem is my TFI, than I imagine mine is failing but not totally gone yet since my FSB still starts.
 

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Lick my balls
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Steve83 said:
Your profile says 5.0L. Common practise is to use cubic inches if you have a carburetor; liters if you have EFI. Which is it?
a 5 litre is a 302 so what's the difference, and he did pull codes, he got 11.

The fact that it turns over doesn't sound like a starter to me, unless it is acting funny somehow. Also, 3 seconds is not a long time for your truck to turn over. My truck will turn over any where from 1 to 3 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
waltman said:
The fact that it turns over doesn't sound like a starter to me, unless it is acting funny somehow. Also, 3 seconds is not a long time for your truck to turn over. My truck will turn over any where from 1 to 3 seconds.
And when it first started doing this, I would let it go longer. But I quickly figured out that if it did not start in the first 3 or 4 seconds, it was not going to start. When it does start, it starts almost immediately. So, now if it goes for that long, I just stop trying and try again quickly.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Steve83 said:
You can test it yourself with a $10 multimeter & the instructions in a $14 Haynes manual. It takes ~20 minutes depending on how well you understand what you're doing & how quickly the problem turns up, but it's pretty easy to do & VERY effective at finding the fault.
Yeah but when the parts store tests it they run it a few times to heat it up. If it's failing but not completely toast yet it will fail on the 3rd or 4th try. Testing with a multimeter won't duplicate this type of test.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I'm going to agree with the TFI theory. In-store testing equipment can get the heatsink VERY hot, duplicating the condition underhood. Often, I'll test a module until the heatsink is barely touchable. Hell, mine's acting funny upon hot restart now, and I'm going to replace it soon just because it's the original. They don't have a good reputation of longevity, and I've been stranded (until it cooled down) by TWO TFI-IV modules before, in two separate cars. Remember to use the proper heatsink compound when reinstalling!!!! Dielectric grease IS NOT heatsink compound! If the auto parts store people don't know the difference, get a $2 tube of it from Radio Shack and use that.

I had a similar hot-starting problem with my Mustang, but only in the summer. I replaced the coolant temp. sensor, and all was well. :) The reason? When the sensor got hot, its resistance wasn't correct, giving the computer the wrong voltage to indicate engine temperature. The consequence was a wrong a/f ratio to start the vehicle. I believe that could be happening here, too.
A test of this component is easily done with a multimeter, and a chart of temperature vs. resistance (or voltage, depending on which test you're doing). I like to do the voltage test because then you're really "seeing what the computer is seeing," ruling out wiring & grounding issues.
 
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