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Discussion Starter #1
Still have not been able to get my 90 Bronc with a 5.0 to fire up again. Ran well then died and has not fired since.

Is getting plenty of gas (the sparkplug smelled like gas when I pulled it to see if I was getting spark) No spark when I ground the spark plug and turned over the engine.

I hooked a test light up to the wires that go into the coil. The first one, that comes from the keyed ignition lights up no problem when the key is on.

The second one, which is supposed to "flash" as the engine is turning over does not flash. So I thing the problem is somewhere proximal to the coil.

Anybody know the next step to take in trouble shooting this? Could it be a faulty ignition chip? How would I test that?

Any insight/experience appreciated.

Thanks

Bakes
 

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Get the Haynes manual and read the section on testing the ignition. It's very thorough, easy-to-follow, and effective. It'll tell you exactly where the fault is. I suspect the TFI ignition module, which is mounted to the base of the distributor, but follow the test procedure before buying any parts.
 

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If the injectors open then the TFI is good enough to start the truck.

this is a secondary ignition problem
check the plugs - wires - coil ect
 

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The PIP is what signals the EEC to open the injectors, and that signal should just shoot straight through the TFI even if it dies. My money is still on the ignition module.
 

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Steve83 said:
that signal should just shoot straight through the TFI even if it dies.
:lolup you think too much, Ford really fawked up the TFI / stator idea.
It's possible, but once one dies, they are both dead typically.

But a simple check of engine codes would better determine this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did the codes earlier. They were: 21, 24, 21, 24 1 33 33

Not sure what they mean though something about ECT and ACT sensors out of range and something about the EGR valve.

Nothing that said, faulty ICM or bad PIP.

I am no expert, but I am thinking something prior to the coil. The reason I say that is that I am getting no "signal" from the ICM wire that goes into the coil. By signal, I mean I hook a test light up to it and it glows for the keyed ignition and does not flash, when I try and start the engine, for the other connection that comes from the ICM.

The engine ran well prior...although when it was warm out it would skip at higher RPM under load. By skip I mean that the tach would start jumping all over the place and I could hear a definate tick/tap like noise from inside the engine bay when it was doing it...it wasn't engine knock, it was a little different.

Anyways, all ideas appreciate on next steps.

Later

Bakes
 

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NUTS! Looks like Steve is right I'm wrong. The TFI and stator are at fault more than likely. Always repalce both togeather

21 ECT sensor out of self test range
24 ACT sensor out of self test range
33 EGR valve opening not detected

21 and 24 are possible from running the test on a cold engine.
33 is probably from a bad EGR soleniod, vacuum leak, wire issue
 

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Discussion Starter #8
By TFI I assume you mean the the ICM chip that is mounted on the distributor?

By Stator I assume you mean the PIP thingy. Do I have to remove the distributor and such to replace the stator assembly? There is not a good exploded view of it in the haynes manual. It says I have to remove the distributor, but do I really have to? Seems like 2/3 the things the manual says we have to remove we don't.


The ICM chip replacement looks simple enough, how difficult would you say replacing the stator is?

Thanks

Bakes
 
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I just had the same problem with my 90 302. It was the Pick-up coil in the dizzy which in turn screwed-up the TFI Ignition module. Your Hayes manual details a dizzy rebuild. I chose to replace the dizzy since it had a little play in the shaft after 150k miles. I got lifetime wanrranties on the dizzy and TFI. No more problemo!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just replaced the distributor since I did not want to mess around with the shaft getting the pickup out. Also swapped in a new ICM while I was at it. Very simple to get the distributor out and in. Fired right up after that.

Thanks for the insight, I learned a lot about bronco ignition the past few days.

LAter

Bakes
 
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